Shower Bed Rebuild

[atolsen85]

I've recently discovered our shower leaks into our master bedroom and is creating quite a stench in the carpet. After reading through these forums I have a much better understanding of what needs to be done and the do's and don'ts but still have a couple of questions.

As you can see in #1 picture, the original floor is wavy and would create nice puddles of water as well as some ugly orange grout.

Picture #2, it appears whoever built the bed got lazy and created the screeds but then used cement board for the floor? Also, you probably already noticed the pan liner that only goes up the curb halfway and has screws drilled through it on the inside of the curb!

My plan is to tear up the curb, floor and the first row of large wall tiles (granted there isn't drywall behind them). Build a new preslope bed, install a new liner, mud the curb and ontop of the liner and finish with tiling the floor, curb and the lower section of the wall.

Granted there is cement board behind that lower section of wall tile, how would I go about removing the old cement board section and putting in new while still being able to tape and bed the joint?

[Houston Remodeler]

Alex,

Welcome to the forum.

After a few decades in the business ripping out countless showers like yours, IMHO there is no 'graceful' way to patch only the bottom foot or so of a shower. Getting the existing wall waterproofing to tie into the new floor waterproofing is tricky at best, if there is wall waterproofing, and if it was done properly. (first clue is the leaking pan) Then you'll discover rot and mold inside the walls.

The only way we'd fix this leaking shower is with a shiny, new, 100% waterproofed shower. That way I could sleep at night and warranty my work.

You're about to repair the hardest parts of a shower re-build, why not do a complete job for a little more effort? In for a penny, in for a pound.

[Davy]

I agree with Paul, if short cuts are taken in one area, you'll usually find them in other areas also. You'll be better off replacing the whole thing.

[atolsen85]

Ok, the last thing I want to do is lose any sleep.

When you say waterproofing, your not referring to putting plastic all the way to the top (correct me if i'm wrong, that's more of a moisture barrier?), your just speaking about having the new shower pan installed correctly with all new cement board installed?

One other question, is there a specific chisel that makes tearing the tile up easier? I am currently using a cold chisel from Lowe's.

[atolsen85]

I think I answered my own question about the waterproofing.

Hydroban vs. Kerdi, which is easier to apply and lighter on the wallet?

This is only applied to the cement board?

[atolsen85]

Thanks for the input Bob!

I am going to be safe and just do a complete tear out and start fresh.

I think I am going to go the Kerdi route.

With that being the case, are these close to the necessary steps.

1. Tear out old tile, cement board and mud bed.
2. Lay preslope mud bed.
3. Mud the new curb.
4. Install new cement board (leaving a space at the floor, if so how much?)
5. Apply Kerdi waterproof membrane to floor(no plastic shower pan liner needed?) and walls.
6. Tile

Any and all input is greatly appreciated.

[atolsen85]

Looks like the course of action I will be following. Thanks again Bob!

I assume since using the Kerdi system you can get away with drywall instead of cement board on the walls?

Will I take the drywall all the way to the subfloor or should some space be left?

[sparkslarue]

hi Alex,
as for the tile removal...
I don't know if you have one at your disposal, but I have LOADS of fun with an air chisel and a 17 gal air compressor! Good luck!
Cheers!

[atolsen85]

Any suggestions on a good but inexpensive tile saw?

What tile saw blade would y'all recommend?

[cx]

Alex, type "wet saw" or "tile saw" into the Advanced Search and ask for Titles.

Do the same for "saw blade."

Enough discussion there to start a couple new forums if you'd like.

[atolsen85]

Thanks CX, found exactly what I needed.

While I have the wall studs exposed, I am planning on redoing the plumbing to have one lever instead of dual.

1. Does the new valve need to be attached to a support board between the studs to prevent any movement or will it be ok once the new copper pipes are soldered to it?

[cx]

You always want that control valve properly supported by the framing, Alex.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[atolsen85]

Another question has come up.

The current sliding glass doors I plan to reuse after redoing the shower has the metal frame. It has 3 screw holes on the vertical parts.

1. I am going the Kerdi route for redoing the shower, so will having to drill into the tile in those 3 spots for the anchor and screws jepardize the waterproof membrane?

Attached is a picture of the vertical bars showing the holes.

[WendyHMN]

When you put the screws in, you will squidge a generous amount of kerdifix or silicone in the holes to maintain your seal.

[cx]

Originally Posted by Ms. Wendy

...you will squidge a generous amount of...

Mmmmm. Mmmmmmm. Guess I'll hafta Google that up. You got maybe a link to a video of that process?