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Unread 05-30-2018, 08:22 PM   #31
Mr_Ed
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What type of thinset to use....

I am preparing to tape my hardiebacker seams and then set tile in my shower.
What type of thinset do I need? My home store has a dozen kinds ( regular, modified, flex, etc).
I am using 12x24 tiles on the walls and ceiling, and a decorative mosaic/glass trim on the back panel of the niches.

Do I need several different thinsets, or is there one that can do everything? I do not mind spending a little more money.

Thanks.
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Unread 05-31-2018, 07:44 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wwhitney
Interesting, I wasn't actually aware than any manufacturer did this, just that it was a possibility. Can you point me at an example?
Just about any lower priced bath fan/light unit you can find at your local Lowe's or Home Depot.

One specific example:
BROAN Bath Fan/Light Model 678-A
Here's a link to the manufacturer's web page to order replacement parts. In the exploding diagram, there is no part shown that looks like anything in the way of a "seal". Instead, there is a light diffusing cover over the front of and a metal cover over the back of the light bulb "box". But nothing to seal moisture from getting in there.
Here is a link to the installation guide. Item #7 in the WARNING section of the 1st page indicates the unit must be connected to a GFCI if it is to be installed over a tub or shower.
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Unread 05-31-2018, 08:31 AM   #33
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Ah, right, that is true of every fan unit I've seen, whether or not they have a light. I thought you were referring to a recessed can light.

Cheers, Wayne
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Unread 06-06-2018, 12:54 PM   #34
Mr_Ed
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Taping Hardiebacker seams

I am finishing up the taping of my hardiebacker seams with thinset and alkali resistant tape.

Do I need to do the bottom joint where the hardiebacker meets the pan (traditional mud pan)?

Thanks.
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Unread 06-06-2018, 01:02 PM   #35
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Have you mudded the shower floor yet?
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Unread 06-06-2018, 01:06 PM   #36
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Yes. Traditional mud pan with liner, sloped down to the drain.
I'll be using Redgard to waterproof.
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Unread 06-06-2018, 01:16 PM   #37
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Hardibacker should be held 1/4” above the shower pan and that joint should be caulked. No tape or thinset.

You’re only using RedGard on the walls, correct?
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Unread 06-06-2018, 01:20 PM   #38
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Yes, Regard only.
Thanks.
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Unread 06-06-2018, 03:04 PM   #39
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Ed, let's keep all questions related to this project on this thread so that questions and answers aren't duplicated, and the history is in one place.

There's no benefit to treating that joint in your case. As stated, Hardibacker shouldn't be embedded in the mud floor. Being abfiber cement board, rather than a true cement board, it doesn't react the same way.
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Unread 06-11-2018, 01:17 PM   #40
Mr_Ed
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Tiling hints

Shower is hardiebacker'd and Redgard'd, getting ready to tile.
I need 3 recommendations.

1. I am using 12x24 tiles on the walls. Can I use them on the ceiling too? And which direction should I lay them, diagonally?

2. We have a triangular corner bench that I am putting a single piece of quartz/granite on top of. Should I put it in first, and then tile around it? Or vice-versa?

3. I am also putting a single piece of granite on top of the curb. Again, should I tile the side walls first, and fit that to the inside edge? Or lay the curb top first, and tile around it?

Thanks.
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Unread 06-11-2018, 03:23 PM   #41
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1. Is the ceiling hardi or drywall? If so how much span between trusses?
2. I prefer to have slab installed first
3. Same as above
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Unread 06-11-2018, 03:40 PM   #42
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Ryan: thanks for your response.

The ceiling is hardiebacker. Here is a picture of it before installation of the hardiebacker. It is in the corner of the house, so ceiling joists running both directions.

Any good reasoning for your opinion on items #2 and #3? Finished look? Drainage? Ease of installation?
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Unread 06-11-2018, 04:40 PM   #43
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I would make sure and have adequate fasteners holding the hardi. Personally I'd go every 6" at the most.

As long as the shower is built properly drainage won't be an issue either way. I find it's easier to have it installed before tile because the slab doesn't have to be as exact, if it's a little short tile will cover it. Now if your tile isn't as square as it should be and the slab doesn't fit right you have to start cutting on it to make it fit right.

I've done it both ways and there is no right or wrong, just preference.
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Unread 06-11-2018, 04:52 PM   #44
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FWIW Hardie recommends max of 16" oc framing. Looks to be 24" judging by stud spacing.
https://www.jameshardie.com/d2w/tech...stallation.pdf
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Unread 06-11-2018, 05:11 PM   #45
Mr_Ed
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Ryan and Peter:
Thanks.
There is one gap that is 22", but that does not run the entire width of the hardiebacker, as that diagonal joint starts to cut across. I have put screws at 6" intervals on that entire piece to make sure.

The question no one has answered is, is it okay to use 12x24 tiles on the ceiling?
Thanks.
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