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Unread 07-11-2014, 03:14 PM   #1
meeyuu226
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Jack-n-Jill Shower-only bathroom into A Hallway bathroom with a tub

Hello!

I've read and read many forums, but I can't seem to find my answer(s) so I'm finally posting...

I am looking to do a bathroom renovation in my lovely 1930's tudor style home. Right now, the bathroom is tiny... about 28 sqft without the shower space. My plan is to combine 2 closets (A hallway linen closet and a bedroom closet) along with the bathroom that is currently a Jack-n-Jill style (the 3 rooms share walls) and use the Hallway closet's existing door as the entry into the bathroom.

I've verified that I can knock these walls down with an engineer.

You can take a look at my plan here of the finished product in the attachment.

A few questions:

1) My joists are 'true' 2x8, over a 10' span. According to the deflecto, I'm good for ceramic tile. Am I good for a cast iron clawfoot tub to be on TOP of that?? Do I need to beef up the joists anyway?

2) I am going for a semi-wet room concept -- meaning I want to have a tub and shower in a curbless glass enclosure. The space to shower will be between the tub and the enclosure. My plan here is to use a presloped pan from Schutler. My current subfloor are the diagonal plank, not sure how thick they are, but let's assume 3/4". Here comes the question. To ensure that I can get the height to match up, do you think I can cut an area the size of the tray out of this subfloor, lay down 5/8" plywood, then mortar, then the tray? 1/8" isn't much, but anything helps!

3) Waterproofing. I've seen all the Kerdi videos, but I've also been looking at Hydroban from Lactirete. Can I install the tray, cement board on the walls and outside of the tray in this shower area, cover it in Hydroban (2-3 coats), and then tile? I know this goes against warranties, but I want to know if this is possible.

Thanks in advance. Hopefully I get some pointers.
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Unread 07-11-2014, 03:56 PM   #2
cx
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Welcome, meeyuu226. Please change that permanent signature line to a first name for us to use.

1. Probably.

2. Let's not presume. You need to know what you've actually got, whether the boards are perpendicular to the joists or at an angle, and the spacing of the joists. If you intend to tile the entire floor you'll need a minimum of nominal 1/2" plywood over the board subflooring if your boards are at least nominal 1" among other considerations.

3. You need to have a minimum of 1/4" per horizontal foot of slope to drain in the entire wet area and your drain must be a minimum of 2" below the shower entry unless you can convince your code compliance official otherwise.

Unless you've lived with an arrangement like you describe, you might wanna think about the cleaning a wet area with a free-standing tub in it.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-13-2014, 08:26 AM   #3
meeyuu226
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CX, Thanks for your reply. Is the signature better now?

1. When you say probably, I assume you mean, "You probably have to beef up the joists anyway"

2. Understood. I can't verify the board thickness at this point.

3. I've seen designs where you have the linear drain at the entry of the shower. How does the code apply there? If I had a minor curb (2", let's say) would that go by code?

"Unless you've lived with an arrangement like you describe, you might wanna think about the cleaning a wet area with a free-standing tub in it."
You have a point here. I've thought about it quite a bit, and what I worry about the most is the clawfeet. I've seen several design on Houzz and Pinterest that follows this design concept... but of course it is Houzz and Pinterest after all.
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Unread 07-13-2014, 09:31 AM   #4
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1. No, I meant you're probably OK, but without knowing something about the joist material and spacing, that's just a guess, eh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Miyu
You have a point here
If you'll go to our FAQ you'll find a brief tutorial on how to post and properly attribute quotes here on the forums, Miyu. Very simple once you see it.
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