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Unread 05-31-2010, 01:11 PM   #16
Hammy
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Never used it but found this while searching...... Hammy

"Installation of tiles on poured asphalt
DURABASE CI makes it possible to install tiling resistant to long-term damage even on problematic substrates such as poured asphalt and similar bituminous load-bearing compounds."

http://www.tools4flooring.com/dural-...9-sf-roll.html
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Unread 05-31-2010, 01:13 PM   #17
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hammy we both saw it at coverings its yellow correct and out of greenville ga.............
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Unread 05-31-2010, 01:15 PM   #18
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Now I will tile my driveway. Hammy
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Unread 05-31-2010, 01:17 PM   #19
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follow the yellow brick road................................
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Unread 06-01-2010, 05:07 PM   #20
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tile over slc

I was wondering if many of you normally lay tile directly over self leveling compound? I will probably be using quickcrete floor resurfacer. I was planning on using ditra over it, but is it really needed?
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Unread 06-01-2010, 06:02 PM   #21
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1st question, I have and no problems.

2nd, never used it so I can't comment.

3rd, it never hurts. It's been a while since I've set over SLC alone. Now, it would either be ditra or a liquid antifracture.
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Unread 06-02-2010, 02:56 PM   #22
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You didn't say if the SLC was used over a slab, or a subfloor. If on a subfloor, did you use the lath and get the manufacturer's minimum required thickness? Did you use the required (on almost all) primer? Therefore, the answer is maybe until the answers to those questions are answered. A membrane never hurts (except the wallet), and is always good insurance, but it depends on the risk/benefit relationship of what you started with.
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Unread 06-05-2010, 11:56 AM   #23
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octagon and dot over ditra?

I am getting ready to lay 2 bathroom floors using dal tile octagon and dot tiles. They come in a 12" mat. I was planning on using ditra, but then I noticed that they don't want you to use tiles less than 2". I believe the octagons are 2", and the dot is 1", but it's in a mat. Would I be wise to use a different system over the self levelling cement I will need to pour? I will also have wall tile coming down to meet the floor with the bottom wall tile being a 4x6 cove. Or is it ok to lay this type of tile over ditra? And what is their concern with using smaller tiles over ditra? Thanks.
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Unread 06-05-2010, 12:01 PM   #24
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After finding some other posts about Ditra, I understand what the concern is about smaller tiles. Does anyone have any reccomendations for my situation. I need to level the 2nd story plywood floor, so I was going to use a slc. I need things dead flat because I have that cove meeting the floor, and flushing out with it. Is there a slc that anyone has used that you would be confidant laying tile directly over in my situation? Has anyone used customs lite self leveler?
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Unread 06-05-2010, 12:28 PM   #25
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Hi Ben. You could go with 1/4 or 1/2 inch cement board if you can handle the height. Then do some minor leveling with thinset and a straight edge over the CBU before tiling. The leveling could be done in several applications and rubbed down with a rub stone after it sets.
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Unread 06-05-2010, 12:55 PM   #26
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That is a good idea. The floor has some pretty bad spots. Like 1/2 inch or more in 4'. I just thought slc would be the easiest. It seems that mosl slc's need some type of lath? Does priming the subfloor, then putting the heat mat, and lath down, then pouring slc covered by redguard sound like a good choice?
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Unread 06-05-2010, 02:24 PM   #27
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Jim, I have not done it yet, but I'm trying to figure out my best plan of attack. It will be over a plywood subfloor, on the 2nd story. I have already ruled out "ditra" due to the fact that I'm using daltile's octagon, and dot tile pattern, and ditra doesn't want you to use tiles under 2" So now I have pretty much decided to use SLC because the floor is out of whack. I haven't decided on a brand yet, but I'm leaning toward custom Levellite. I will use Lath, but have not decided if i should use metal, or plastic. I will make sure to get the minimum thickness as well. I have limited experience with SLC, so I am trying to get any info I can about it. At this point, I think I will put a trowel on membrane on top of the SLC. Have not decided what kind yet. Any advice would be great. I might just use redgard or something. Or maybe I don't need a membrane if I use the right slc with metal lath?
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Unread 06-05-2010, 03:12 PM   #28
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You don't 'need' a decoupling layer over a full-coverage slc, but it is an insurance policy. The key to a successful slc pour is good prep and being FAST. You want to flood the area before things start to set up, and this means getting help and preparation. The stuff (depending on the brand and version) is between water and pancake batter. It will level, but make need some help flowing into corners. It levels best when you get all surfaces wet with the stuff and it is thick enough, otherwise, you'll get high and low spots, if too shallow, since surface tension will hold it. once all surfaces are wetted with the stuff, and it is thick enough, it will level if you get the coverage before it starts to set up. Otherwise, it can be like a partially frozen puddle...the set (frozen) stuff will bend or crack and you may not get the liquid stuff to flow to relevel it. It's almost like a switch...liquid one minute, and hard the next (with a plastic period inbetween that doesn't last long). They make adjustable rakes to help move the stuff around and gauge level, but it may be overkill for one use. I used a snow rake, since it had a nice long handle, to move it around into the corners without stepping in the stuff. They do also make cleats, if you want to walk around in the stuff without getting your shoes all covered.
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Unread 06-05-2010, 03:30 PM   #29
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Jim, Thanks for all the info, It really helps a lot.
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Unread 06-08-2010, 04:58 PM   #30
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I need a solution

I am doing my layout for a bathroom that has 3x6 dal subway tiles all the way around the room about 4' high, and a 4x6 cove base that flushes out with the floor tile. The floor tile is dal octagon, and dot. The octagons are 2", and the dot is 1". It comes in a 12x12 mat. The subfloor is plywood, and strength of the subfloor is not a concern. The problem I am facing is the subfloor is fairly out of level. I was planning on just fixing it by priming it, and pouring self leveler 1/2" over the high point of the floor, Which happens to be in the back of the room, opposite the door. The problem being if I do that, I will end up with the tile floor finishing at 1 3/8" off the subfloor at the door. That is too high for the carpet to meet up to it. Even if I was to put a anti-fracture membrane on the plywood, and lay the tile flat from the high point, directly over the membrane, I would end up with about an inch at the door. That is as high as I can be. The floor is a little over 1/2 inch from the high point, to the low. The only solution I could think of is using a self leveling product, and pouring it to a feather edge so it dies into the high point of the plywood floor. Is there any products that this can be done with? If not, would it be acceptable to use a liquid anti-fracture membrane over it like ultra-set, to make up for the fact that it is not 1/2 inch thick, and has no lath in it? I can't use ditra because the floor tiles are less than 2". I thought about using kerdi on the floor, over the self leveler to hold it together? I have limited experience with cove tiles that flush out with the tile floor, but I don't see how you could make it look right unless they were set dead level. I had the thought of cheating them up, or down as needed, then cutting the top of the cove tile to make up the difference on the tiles that were too high. Seems like a nightmare, and I think you would see it. Anyone know of any self leveler that can be used in this application? Or any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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