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Unread 01-17-2011, 07:20 PM   #1
Acipenser
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Master Bath Renovation

I am beginning my second bathroom renovation. My first was done before finding this site. I am hoping with the knowledge gained from this site, my first renovation experience, and your answers to questions that this renovation will go smoother and faster.

The bathroom is roughly 7' x 12'. There will be a walk in shower on one end, a toilet and double vanity on one side, a window on one end, and a door on the other side.

After doing the demolition, I replaced all the joists and a girder due to old termite damage. The new joists are 2x8s on 12" centers, except for around the toilet. Due to its location I had to make that joist about 15" from its farthest other joist. The girder runs perpendicular to the 12' side of the room at about the 8 foot mark. However the joists run in different directions on either side of the girder. So I have a 7' x 8' section with 8' joists (tie into girder), and a 7' x 4' section with 7' joists (run parallel to girder). Not sure if that makes any difference.

We will be using a 12x12 travertine tile for the floor. I used the deflecto above and it said that was fine. I have put in a 23/32 plywood (sturd-i-floor) subfloor and am planning on another layer of 23/32 plywood for the underlayment. Would that be overkill?

I will be using Ditra over the plywood. I will likely be shopping at Lowes for most of the materials for this project. They carry Mapei and Laticreet. Which thin-set mortar would you recommend for the Ditra?
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Unread 01-17-2011, 07:34 PM   #2
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welcome,

The 23/32" may be over kill, but with a natural stone floor I like lotsa ply. You could get away with 1/2" or 5/8" and be fine though. For under the Ditra use Ultraflex 2 -Mapei or 252 -Laticrete. On top of the ditra and under your tile I would use 220 from Laticrete, it is a very good medium bed mortar
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Unread 01-18-2011, 07:06 PM   #3
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Thanks for the suggestions. I will be going with the additional 23/32 for the underlayment layer.

We will be installing a Kohler cast iron shower base. The installation instructions say to put the base on the subfloor.

As mentioned, we will also be using Ditra on the floor. Should I run the ditra under the shower base to help to add to the waterproofing of the floor? Or should I get the shower base installed first and then install the ditra up to the edge of the showerbase.

Thanks.
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Unread 01-18-2011, 07:12 PM   #4
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Install the base first, and run your ditra up to the base.
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Unread 01-18-2011, 08:19 PM   #5
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Ooops forgot to ask:

Part of the floor in the bathroom has the original 3/4" x 12" plank subfloor. It seems to be in very good condition, and covers an area about 4' x 5'. Will that be sufficient once covered by an additional 23/32" plywood underlayment?
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Unread 01-19-2011, 06:14 AM   #6
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Yes.
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Unread 01-22-2011, 04:37 PM   #7
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Our store does not carry any Laticrete products anymore. It does carry a lot af Mapei products. What would you recommend for 12" x 12" Travertine over Ditra?

Thanks,
Bill
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Unread 01-22-2011, 05:16 PM   #8
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I don't think Mapei has a non modified marble or medium bed thinset.You would have to either flattrowel the Ditra with a Kerabond then next day use a medium bed modified thinset or use a different brand.Using just the Kerbaond thinset i don't think you'll be able to get a flat marble floor.
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Unread 01-23-2011, 05:40 PM   #9
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Any recommendations for a good medium bed modified thinset?

I'll check around some of the local tile stores to see what is available.

Thanks,
Bill
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Unread 01-23-2011, 05:44 PM   #10
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4XLT is both a medium set and a thinset depending on how much water you add.
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Unread 04-01-2011, 10:11 AM   #11
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Kohler Cast Iron Shower Base

I have gotten the Kohler cast iron shower base installed, but I am worried about the installation of the tile. Kohler's instractions say to shim behind the drywall to move the drywall out so that the tiles will extend down over the flange. If I use a typical 1/4" shims the tiles will lay flush against the drywall and be about a 1/4" from the shower base. I am using 12"x12" travertine tiles and am worried that the slight change in angle will be visible as you go up the wall.

Also the side walls of the shower extend out into the room. How do I remedy the difference in thickness due to the shims as the walls transition back to plumb outside the shower?

Instead of shims, should I use 1/4" plywood to fur out the walls so that it is even all the way to the top?

Thanks,
Bill
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Unread 04-02-2011, 09:07 AM   #12
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Any suggestions?
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Unread 04-02-2011, 09:36 AM   #13
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Bill,

Shim out far enough to get the drywalll flat. What is your waterproofing method of choice?
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Unread 04-02-2011, 01:16 PM   #14
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I will be using Kerdi.

I am worried that by using shims the drywall will not be flat, but bowed out at the bottom. This is so the drywall sticks over the flange on the shower base. Won't this be visible from the side due to the walls continuing further into the room, and due to the 12x12 tiles being at a slight angle on the bottom row as compared to the rest of the tiles. I thought it might be better to fur out the entire walls instead of using shims. Just don't want to go through the effort if not necessary.
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Unread 10-28-2011, 10:56 AM   #15
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Finally getting back on to this project.

I have gotten the drywall installed. I shimmed out the walls enough so that the tiles will extend down over the lip of the shower base.

I am using 2 ProSpec PreFormed Niches, one on top of another. They are caulked in place to the studs and cross bracing. I have not put any water proofing along the edges where the niches butt against the drywall. I was planning on running the Kerdi up to the inner edge of the niche flange. The flange is 1.75", so not the recommended 2" over lap. Should that be good enough, or should I apply waterproofing (ProSpec recommends B-6000 in the instructions, but I think that is if not using a waterproof membrane) at the sheetrock-niche joints?

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Bill
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