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Unread 08-19-2015, 08:57 AM   #1
ryebotanist
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How to deal with backer board/drywall transition at inside corner

I'm renovating our bathroom and as part of that, we're tiling all the way to ceiling. I'm not sure how to deal with the inside corner where the backer board meets the drywall on the ceiling. I am using Kerdi membrane for waterproofing. Do I use drywall tape? Do I use mesh tape? Do I use Kerdi tape? Do I bother with filling the joint since the tile will cover it?

Another quick question: How far out from the edge of the tub do I place the backerboard? Should the drywall/backer board transition line up with the edge of the tub or should it be past the line?
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Unread 08-19-2015, 09:05 AM   #2
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Welcome, Timothy.

Unless your local code requires that joint to be filled and taped, you treat it any way you want. It's above the wet area of your shower.

You want your CBU and your waterproofing and your tile to extend at least two or three inches horizontally beyond your tub face.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-27-2015, 12:57 PM   #3
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Tips for installing glass mosaic tile accent strip

I'm installing a 4" glass mosaic tile accent strip and I need to know about any problems I might encounter and I was hoping that some of you could help fill in the details or let me know about things I couldn't even imagine.

Here's what I know:
  1. Accent tiles and field tiles may not be the same thickness, so I'll need to fine a way to even them out. Anyone have any advice about ways they've done that?
  2. I may not want to set the accent strip (1" x 2" glass mosaic tiles) until all of the field tiles have been installed. The thinking that I've read is that the accent strip can't support the weight of the tiles above. I thought about screwing a ledger strip where the accent tiles will be then finishing up the field tiles. Any other solutions? Any problems with my idea?
  3. Finally, is there any problem with using sanded grout? I'm concerned about scratching the glass.

Is there anything I'm leaving out?
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Unread 08-27-2015, 01:24 PM   #4
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Timothy, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. We can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

There is no standard method of doing that accent row. You most certainly can stack your field tiles atop your accent tiles if you let the accent strip set up sufficiently before tiling above. I think the use of a spacer strip and setting all the field tiles first is a more common method, but that also requires the you attach the strip in a manner that does not compromise your waterproofing or allows the waterproofing to be repaired after the spacer is removed.

Some sanded grout will scratch some glass tiles. Best to test your grout on your tiles before making a final decision.

My opinon; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-27-2015, 01:24 PM   #5
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I did a kerdi shower, and when I asked this question in my "build postings", the suggestion I got was to cut some pieces of kerdi (4" wide x 2' or 3') then attach the glass to the kerdi (done outside of shower) then after it setup, I installed the strips to the shower wall. The additional kerdi layer built out the assembly so it sat flush with the field tiles.

If you didn't do a kerdi shower, perhaps the same idea would work for you - just using a different backing material to mount the glass on.

I used sanded "epoxy" grout and did not have any scratching - but the Pros will tell you to read the glass tile manufacturer's instructions regarding sanded or unsanded grout.

Also - I am just faintly remembering this now. But I recall that I tiled the wall up to where the glass was to be installed. I let those lower wall tiles setup/dry. Then I cut a strip of thin plywood the thickness of the glass tile plus grout lines. I inserted the plywood strips held in place with some painter's tape and then finished tiling the wall. The plywood strips keep those upper field tiles in place (from sliding down) and provided a nice straight line above the glass row. After those upper field tiles setup/dried I removed the plywood strips and inserted the glass tile (strips). It may seen like a Rube Goldberg method but it worked nicely for me since I work so slowly (and without a helper).
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Unread 08-27-2015, 01:37 PM   #6
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I'll have to remember using Kerdi strips to bring the tiles to the same plane. I've seen that some people use strip of Ditra installed backwards to do the same thing.

That plywood option sounds pretty good and would save me from fixing my waterproofing later. How long did you let the field tiles set up before removing the plywood?
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Last edited by ryebotanist; 08-27-2015 at 01:38 PM. Reason: Had a question
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Unread 08-27-2015, 02:41 PM   #7
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In my case, I let them setup over night. Probably would have only taken 4 or so hours though.
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Unread 09-01-2015, 10:11 AM   #8
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Kerdi strip question

I need to apply a Kerdi strip to an old window frame for waterproofing. Would I use Kerdi-fix or thinset?
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Unread 09-01-2015, 10:46 AM   #9
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Of what material is the window frame, Timothy?
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Unread 09-01-2015, 10:59 AM   #10
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Should have specified, the window jamb is wood.
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Unread 09-01-2015, 01:45 PM   #11
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While the Kerdi Fix will adhere to the wood, the soft wood of a window jamb or sash will get damp quickly if it's in the wet area of your shower and I would not expect the Kerdi Fix, nor any similar pookey, to stay stuck for long.

Is your window frame where you wanna stick the Kerdi well painted?

A photo or two might be very helpful.
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Unread 09-01-2015, 08:21 PM   #12
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Sorry, but I don't have any good pictures at the moment. I'm removing some of the old trim, so only part of it will be painted.
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Unread 09-03-2015, 08:35 AM   #13
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Maybe I'll just try to screw some 1/4" Hardie Board to the wood, then use thinset to attach the Kerdi strip for waterproofing and hope that it works.
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Unread 09-15-2015, 08:38 AM   #14
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Grout sealer?

I don't want my grout to darken too much over time. Does anyone recommend using a grout sealer? What kind works best? I'm using subway tiles with 1/16" grout lines if that makes it easier
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Unread 09-15-2015, 11:28 AM   #15
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There are some sealers available through the Tile Tool Store and Stone Tooling links at the bottom of the page.

If you use an epoxy grout like Spectralock or something similar, like Fusion Pro or Mapei Flexicolor CQ, you can eliminate the sealer. Those types of grouts are more expensive, but they're well worth the price and the extra effort it takes to use them, since you don't have to buy sealer, or re-seal every few years.
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