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Unread 07-10-2021, 11:28 AM   #16
cx
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Vasily, mold grows where it has the right temperature, food, and sufficient moisture. It cares not how those conditions came to exist.

If you are talking about building a tiled shower with CBU walls, you have two choices: You can put a moisture barrier behind the CBU, or you can put a direct bonded waterproofing membrane on the inside face of the CBU. But you do not wanna do both.

If you would tell us how you plan to create the receptor for the shower, we can give you better advice on which of those best suits your needs. And again, if you would add a geographic location to your User Profile, we can do an even better job of that.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-10-2021, 12:30 PM   #17
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CX, could you explain to me one thing? I understand that even sealed granite will let water slightly penetrate to the cement backerboard. However, the water will not splash all over, it will soak the board and will evaporate if it has an escape. If I paint over the whole surface of the backer board before I put the tiles then water still will find a way to penetrate behind the tile to soak the cement board but them it does not have a way to escape. What do you think?
P.S. I did updated my profile
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Unread 07-10-2021, 02:10 PM   #18
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I think the question here is about having the Redgard shower on a wall that has a barrier of some sort (I am not sure we know what) on the opposite side of the studs on the external wall. I am thinking that isn't really a problem, since the cavity isn't totally isolated, but I am not an expert!
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Unread 07-10-2021, 05:27 PM   #19
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Seems we're missing a good deal of relevant information here, Jeff.

Vasily, the moisture problems we encounter with shower installations are not necessarily caused by the penetration of liquid water. There is also the problem of moisture vapor penetration into other spaces or materials, which subsequently become liquid water again. In your climate, especially in the winter, and depending upon the design of the exterior house walls, if you have a shower located against an exterior wall you'll have a rather high "vapor drive" when the shower is in use with hot water.

Somewhere in that wall the vapor will find its dew point and there it will condense back into liquid water. We're not talking about large quantities of water with each shower, but after years of showers you can develop serious problems and damage.

Now, RedGard claims to be a vapor barrier. In the construction industry that usta be any material with a perm rating of 1.0 or less. Today it's referred to as a Vapor Diffusion Retarder. I say if it's 1 perm or less, it's a vapor barrier material. I've several times asked Custom Building Materials for a copy of the test by which they determined their RedGard to be a vapor barrier. I've still never seen it. And no other manufacturer of liquid-applied direct bonded waterproofing membranes seems to have been able to duplicate that claim. But that's a different discussion.

When there is warm, moist air in the shower, and cool or cold, drier air in the wall cavity, the water vapor in the shower has a very strong incentive to be in the wall cavity. Even with a vapor retarder material such as RedGard on the inside of the wall, some will get through. When it finds its dew point, which could be within the CBU or within the wall insulation, or on the inside of the outside wall sheathing, it will condense into water and will no longer have any incentive to move. Depending upon the wall construction, it may never have any incentive to move, as in to evaporate again and be driven to a cooler, drier place.

We could carry this discussion to book length, but the simple fact is that moisture gets into places where we'd rather not have it. Best we can do is try to keep as much out as possible, and to provide a ready escape for it in the places where we least want it to congregate.

If you plan to waterproof your shower with RedGard, do so per the manufacturer's instructions. If you have, as is very common in your climate, a vapor retarder over the inside of the exterior stud walls, I would recommend you defeat or remove that material in the portion of the wall where you waterproofed shower wall will be.

Again, we really need to know more about your plan for this shower and the construction of your exterior walls to go much further with the discussion.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-11-2021, 07:31 PM   #20
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Finally the backer boards are crewed in and I am ready to do thinset application. I use MAPEI Large Tile and Stone 50-lb White Thinset. The main questions today about timing. After I mixed it how long do I have before it looses its properties? After I cover the seems with a tape alkaline ready and cover with the thinset how soon will it set so I could start applying red guard waterproof? How soon after that can I set the tiles? May I set several rows of tiles at a session on I can do a row a day? How soon may I lay the next row of tiles? I am actually surprised that MAPEI did not provided this on the box as well as in the factory specs of the webstie?
Thank you in advance!
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Unread 07-11-2021, 08:11 PM   #21
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Another thing: which size trowel do I use for granite walls 12x12 tiles really well cut? 1/4x1/4?
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Unread 07-11-2021, 08:26 PM   #22
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I'd likely use a 3/8 x 3/8. If you don't have a 3/8 notch trowel, you can make your 1/4 x 1/4 a 1/4 x 3/8 by notching the trowel notches a little deeper. I'd use a 1/4 inch wide metal cutting blade on an angle grinder.
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Unread 07-11-2021, 08:38 PM   #23
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Davy,

I would never thought about re-shaping my trowel! I have a Lowe's within reach LOL!

I also looked at your website and was amazed by the galery! Great work! Is your reinforced cement mortar (concrete) in the construction and tiling different from common those days techniques?
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Unread 07-11-2021, 09:27 PM   #24
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Mud work is still done but not like it was years ago. A good mud man can get the walls plumb, flat and square. The tiling is pretty much the same as it is with other methods.

If you need to cut the notches 1/8 deeper, draw a line with a sharp pointed sharpie and cut each notch to the line. I'm always having to open mine up. Sometimes they just wear down a little.
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Unread 07-11-2021, 10:39 PM   #25
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I am still confused about time for the thin set to set as I was trying to ask few posts ago. I understand it depends on the mortal set time. How long should I expect it will take me to do 60x30 buthtub walls? 5 days counting waterproofing?
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Unread 07-11-2021, 11:17 PM   #26
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Unless the instructions call for more, I'd wait at least 24-hours after spreading the thinset on the seams before I painted on the RedGard.
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Unread 07-12-2021, 08:10 AM   #27
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Thank you Jim,

I am spreading the thinset now. So I have 24 hours to get answers on my previous questions about tiles timing!
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Unread 09-08-2021, 05:46 PM   #28
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Glass Doors without studs

Hello guys,

It took me very long time to set me tiles around a bathtub. Next I need to install the glass doors. I found that I do not have studs in the location for the doors - may I make holes in the granite tiles (12x12) and use anchors to attach the doors hardware? Which options to I have? I have medium standard doors - not too heavy.
Thank you in advance!
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Unread 09-08-2021, 05:59 PM   #29
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Vasily, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. A moderator can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

Very late in the game to properly correct the situation you're describing. Prior to installing your wallboards would have been the time to provide adequate framing, but looks like that ship has sailed.

'Fraid I've got no idea what "medium standard doors" might be. Are these framed doors that fit into another metal frame of some sort that attaches to the walls and to the tub? Are they frameless glass that needs to be attached to the wall with small brackets? What size is the door? What thickness the glass?

Photos or a link would certainly help.

Bottom line? Yes, you can drill through your tiles and attach your door to the wall. Some answers to the questions above might help determine how successful that might be.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-08-2021, 07:55 PM   #30
Barmaley
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" it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. A moderator can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one. " I will try to follow this rule. What should I do about the title?

I opened the box with the door kit to find our that the kit is missing one door
The model suppose to be shdr-6360602-01 but I am not sure if it is possible to buy a missing glass? I am afraid that I would need to buy another kit

What should I know about the new kit to purchase since I failed on time to make proper frame for the doors?

I remember that one politician said: who knew that healthcare could be so complicated? I am not thinking: who knew that the bathroom remodeling could be so hard? I thought it should be a weekend project!!! The reason that I did not bother to learn about the shower doors was the fact that I knew that there are kits ti install the doors to the existing tub and I decided to deal with one issue at a time LOL!
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