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Unread 01-13-2020, 01:46 PM   #16
tilehack
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Thanks again, folks! Pardon the radio silence, but I've been spending 12 hour days putting this bathroom back together.

Correct underlayment purchased. I went with 5/8" ply to get me to 1 1/4" total. Floor tile on hold as the wife waffles about her tile choice.

Moving over to the tub, and I've got a couple questions.

1) Not surprisingly, the studs on the back and side walls are uneven. I've been able to sand the fat studs, and fur some of the thin ones out with various pieces of wood, but what are my options for tapered gaps? I'm using Hardibacker as my base, and my understanding is that wet shimming isn't appropriate for cement board. I played around with setting a bead of Liquid Nails and running a level across the full span to skim to the correct depth, and waiting for it to harden before install, but I'm not sure if that's a good long-term option. Appreciate any advice there.

2) It appears that there's an inward taper from the bottom to the top of my side walls, roughly 1/4". Is that enough of a change to notice that my back wall edge tiles are getting slightly narrower as they go up?

3) I'm putting up 4x6 subway tile. We got 2x8 bullnose tile for the edges, and in my layout, I noticed that, with 1/16" spacers, two stacked tiles are taller than the single bullnose (oh yeah!). They didn't have any 4x6 bullnose, only 4x4. What do you guys suggest for edge tile?

Thanks, thanks, and thanks again!
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Unread 01-13-2020, 06:35 PM   #17
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You could sister on a new stud that was straight. It's a pain when there's a taper as each row, that last tile will be different lengths. One thing I like that would help hide some of that would be to use one of Schluter's corner profiles. I think it's the EKE, but may be wrong, has a pocket on one side that the tile slips into. That pocket depth may be enough to hide the unevenness, and being straight itself, fools the eye to thinking it's straight, while the wall may not be. Even if you do straighten things up (you should) the profiles mean you never have to deal with caulk at the change of plane. The visible portion comes in a bunch of different colors and in various depths to accommodate different tile.
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Unread 01-14-2020, 09:56 AM   #18
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Thanks, Jim. I need to stop working until 2AM because I wasn't correct about the taper. The walls do lean in a little, but less than 1/8" over the full height after some sanding. I do like the idea of those corner strips, regardless, though. Thanks for the suggestion.

Any thoughts on the edge tiles? I bought Schluter strips, but the wife doesn't like them

New question about tub flange. I'm using Hardiebacker with an Aquaseal membrane. I have the Hardiebacker installed 1/4" above the top of the tub flange, and it sticks out roughly 1/4" beyond the flange. It looks like the preferred method to fill this gap is to use Kerdi fix and a Kerdi band to fill/cover this gap. It's a long drive to the nearest Kerdi dealer, so I'm looking for ways to avoid that. Could I fill the gap with thinset while I'm taping and thinsetting the seams. Then tape/thinset over that and then paint the Aquaseal over everything? I'm guessing no, but hopeful I can avoid several hours of driving.
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Unread 01-14-2020, 10:35 AM   #19
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You can probably order the Kerdi band online, Drew, and you can definitely order the Durock equivelent online.
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Unread 01-14-2020, 10:47 AM   #20
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Thanks, Dan. That's probably what I'm going to do. Anything else seems like a compromise as I'm sure any water that gets to the bottom of the backer board will work it's way back up and over the flange.

Would it be better to use a single piece of Kerdi band, rather than three separate pieces?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=CYf1jHbER4o

Should the tile rest on the edge of the tub, or should there also be a gap there for movement? So many questions!!
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Unread 01-14-2020, 11:09 AM   #21
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In your case where you're using a liquid-applied waterproofing membrane on your walls, you'd want the banding material to be continuous around the tub, but that does not mean you need to use a single, continuous piece. You can simply overlap the corners as you would anywhere else when using a sheet membrane.

You'll note that in your video they're working with a tub with nice square corners instead of the far more common rounded corners with not tiling flange on or near the front. You want to make your best effort to bond your banding material to the tub all around your round corners and down the front for your tub leg.

You never want your tile to butt directly against any other solid surface, including other tiles. You always want a gap, which can be filled with a flexible sealant in most cases.

I'm really opposed to the continuous bead of sealant between tile and tub in your application, but that's what the industry recommends. I would want at least some weep gaps in the sealant, but that's...

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-14-2020, 11:48 AM   #22
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Thanks, cx. Any reason NOT to use a single piece of band all the way around? Can you expand on this?

"I would want at least some weep gaps in the sealant"
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Unread 01-14-2020, 02:38 PM   #23
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If I’m understanding the continuous band question your asking right, what he’s saying is (when applied correctly) the band is waterproof regardless of one piece or 3. My experience is with Kerdi Band, but joints need to overlap 2”. When the felt in the band is properly embedded with thinset and overlapped 2”, it is as waterproof as one continuous piece. I assume other waterproofing membranes are similar, but read manufacturer instructions.

The weep hole comment is referring to the caulk applied at tub to wall tile transition. Vapor/water that does get behind would theoretically drain at the gaps in the caulk bead instead of just sitting between tile and waterproofing membrane. Same reason tub spouts typically have a hole in bottom, or many do not caulk toilets to the floor. Not giving an opinion, just stating the logic.

Hope that is helpful.
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Unread 01-14-2020, 06:04 PM   #24
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You can use a single piece, but keep in mind if the corners aren't perfectly square, the band will tend to want to rise or fall some, and your thinset spreading skills may not be great to get it done fast enough to then get the strip installed before things skin over. The backer will suck moisture...liberal use of a wet sponge is recommended prior to spreading the thinset. It's not too wet unless there's standing water.
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Unread 01-16-2020, 10:42 AM   #25
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Got it, that makes sense. So, I'll have to wrap the corners one way or the other, but three pieces means I'm only dealing with a couple of inches of rise/fall versus the full length?

BTW, for anybody considering a dive into a DIY bathroom remodel, for the love, pay for the Wedi or Kerdi systems. If I never touch another piece of Hardie Backer again, it'll be too soon.
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Unread 01-18-2020, 08:56 AM   #26
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Ran into a problem sealing the gap. The sides are good, but I ran out of Kerdi Fix on the back wall. It was late, so I just finished the job. Now I’m concerned. This will all be getting Aquaseal over it, but I worry about gap between the Fix and the backer and the gap between the tile and the wall. Is this at all acceptable?
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Unread 01-18-2020, 11:02 AM   #27
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Couldn’t take it. I pulled the bottom of the strip up enough to fill with more Kerdi Fix.
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Unread 01-18-2020, 11:06 AM   #28
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I didn't comment on accounta I couldn't tell what you were showing us in your last photo, Drew, but apparently you fixed whatever it was.
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Unread 02-03-2020, 09:37 AM   #29
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I knew I couldn't match the speed of the YouTube pros, but goodness, I didn't expect to be THIS slow. It took a little over a week for just the tile and grout (after work on weekdays, in my defense), but the tub surround is tiled and grouted. Major hurdle overcome, thanks so much for the tips and advice.

Can anyone recommend a good grout sealer? I grouted with pearl Keracolor U. Something approachable by a newb would be great, if such a thing exists.
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Unread 02-03-2020, 10:34 AM   #30
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You don’t even rate to enter the slowness contest. It took me months for tiling and grouting. So long as you get it the way you want it and do it correctly, no one here cares about how long you take.
As to grout sealer, I used the 511 penetrating sealer. Goes on easy, doesn’t change the look of the grout, and seems to do its job. Don’t use the enhancing sealer as it darkens the grout. Also, grout sealer won’t waterproof the grout, though it does cause a bit of bead up of water spray over nothing at all.
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