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Unread 12-28-2019, 09:53 PM   #16
JohnpaulTH
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Is there anything you can do if your mix is wrong?
or do you discard it and start over?
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Unread 12-28-2019, 10:16 PM   #17
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I cannot find anything specific about lath weight in the TCNA handbook, is it an ANSI A108.1A thing?
FWIW the weight per sheet is 4.5 pounds according to the Q&A section of the webpage.
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Unread 12-29-2019, 01:23 AM   #18
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It goes by the weight per yard. At the store, you might find a metal tag on one of the bundles that will have the weight stamped on it. 1.75 and 2.5 are the most common.

If you mix it 4 to 1 to 1, it should work fine. I don't throw it away. For example, if the mud looks to be a little too sandy, I'll throw in another half shovel of Portland or if it's not sticky enough, I'll add a little more lime. But, you'll have to gain a little experience with it before you'll know if it actually needs to be fine tuned. Again, 4 to 1 to 1 should work.
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Unread 12-29-2019, 04:03 AM   #19
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While you are at Lowe's pick yourself up some measuring buckets from the paint department if you are going to make your mix from scratch. Or you can use this premixed stuff
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Unread 12-29-2019, 08:56 AM   #20
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Yes, the Quikrete Stucco base coat works great if your Lowes has it. I have a hard time finding it in my area but I have used many pallets of the stuff and is the best premixed that I've found. The blend is just right in my opinion.

Even if they don't have it in stock, they can order it for you. The last time I ordered some, it took about a week to get.
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Unread 12-29-2019, 09:09 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnpaul
I cannot find anything specific about lath weight in the TCNA handbook, is it an ANSI A108.1A thing?
ANSI A108.02, General Requirements: Materials, Environmental, and Workmanship, Paragraph 3.6, Metal lath or approved alternate.
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Unread 12-29-2019, 09:22 PM   #22
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Grr... I should not have been so impatient and put the stuff up before reading your replies!
It looks pretty hefty, but my calculator tells me that the lath is 2.22 pounds per square yard, using the information that I can get from the website. (We live 40 minutes from lowes)
Of course, I have no reason to believe that the answer is correct, any more than I have reason to believe that the "pro" who points me to mastic when I am looking for mortar, who said that this was OK to use, provided I use furring nails.
I learned my lesson about wearing gloves, when the lath sprung back from the wall. I should have been wearing hearing protection! needless to say, I wore gloves and saftey glasses after that.

The lath definitely has weight to it, but I do not have a reliable way to measure it here.
our scale is not reliable.

When I mix the mud, can I mix it in the wheelbarrow then add the water, or do I have to premix it in a seperate container and then add it to the water like with thinset?
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Unread 12-29-2019, 09:34 PM   #23
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If you were able to calculate 2.22 pounds from the alleged weight of a full sheet it's likely 2.5# lath, Johnpaul. The only three weights I've ever seen for that material are 1.75, 2.5, and 3.4 pounds per yard. And for a residential shower you're gonna be OK with what you've got. See my warranty information below.

Keep in mind our general recommendation here that you never, ever ask a person in an orange or a blue apron any question that does not begin with "Where would I find the......"

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You can dry-mix your materials in your wheelbarrow and then add water.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-29-2019, 09:53 PM   #24
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Thanks for all your replies, I'll try to keep you posted on our progress.
I plan to install the last of the lath tomorrow morning, then float a wall, and see how far I get before running out of time. I'll start with your 4:1:1 mix, and pray it works.
I was able to rip down some float strips, that are pretty straight, but I wish I had thought to pick up lattice molding, or something like it.
I assume the strips should be as straight as possible. is 1/16 of bow allowable?
what about floppy wood? I assume that the mud has a slight amount of stick to it, but it doesn't sound like a good idea to screed off of floppy wood.
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Unread 12-29-2019, 10:38 PM   #25
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I have had occasion to use Davy's 4:1:1 fat mud mix, Johnpaul, and it's very nice. He mixes his a bit wetter than I learned years ago or I should say his primary mixer, "Little" Davy, mixes, but I think I like it better his way than the way I was taught. Having him dishing it out of his wheelbarrow and watching over your shoulder is a little intimidating, but it can also be informative.

If you don't find that formula to your liking, I'll be rather surprised.

Straight float strips are nice, but you'll find you always need to flatten them on the wall with a long straight-edge anyway. I rip mine about 3/16th to a quarter inch thick from 2x material and like to run one side through the jointer before each rip when I'm making a batch. Not necessary, but makes me feel good. Not sure what your "floppy wood" might be, but I use cedar when I have some and pine or fir otherwise. I made some for Davy from Ipe one time, but I don't know if he liked them or not. Definitely not floppy, those.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-29-2019, 11:38 PM   #26
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If they are "floppy" then they are too thin. As for the bow, you really want straight lumber but then again you are going to be tapping them in to the mud so that bow may be irrelevant. The mistake I made on my first float was after tapping them in and getting them nice and level I ruined it by pushing to hard when I was screeding, I pushed to hard on the screed and in turn pushed the float strips in a little more here and there. You want almost no pressure on the screed just a vertical movement with a sawing motion. Another thing don't rush, which is hard to do when you feel like you are racing against the mud but you are trying to get the wall as flat and level as a $10,000.00 pool table. And when it comes time to put up the tile you will be glad you did. I was very intimidated by mud when I first discovered the process, but with the help of many on here I have gotten pretty good. I am still not as fast as I would like to be but that will come with time. Have a helper around it will give you more time to focus on slinging mud and getting it right the first time. Also get your lath as tight as possible. I think it was Davy that mentioned nailing on both sides of the studs but don't quote me on that. And there is a big long threat with tips and tricks maybe someone can post a link and CX has a picture of a mixer that he recommends it really helped me in saving time mixing(I don't have helpers) maybe we can get him to put that up, I can't seem to find my picture in my phone. An lastly good luck and good for you for giving this a shot
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Unread 12-30-2019, 01:07 AM   #27
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For years we used the single coat method using sheetrock or greenboard as the backer and support for the finish coat. That was back when I did mostly new construction. And then the codes changed and greenboard no longer met code, so the sheetrockers stopped hanging it in the showers. That's when I went back to hanging the felt paper and lath right on the studs and scratching it out. The scratch coat really helps to dry out the finish coat and pushing the sticks in too much isn't usually a problem. In fact, I wet the scratch coat down with water to keep it from drying my finish coat too fast.

If you'll look at the Lowes website again, you'll see another sheet of lath advertised at over 11.00. I believe it will be the 2.5 and what you bought for 9.00 will be the 1.75. I've never seen the 3.4 at a big box store, not to say it's not there.

I rip my sticks at 3/16 thick. Like Cx said, being floppy doesn't matter since you'll need to tap them into the mud and get them straight and plumb. A 7 ft level works good for this. I rip sticks to use at the edge of the mud also. They vary in thickness depending on the bullnose trip I plan to use.
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Unread 12-30-2019, 01:10 AM   #28
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Here's a pic of a couple shampoo boxes with the stick running up the right side. The small pieces of tar paper is there to slightly shim out the stick to get it straight.

Edit; The pic is sideways but you get the idea. The sticks in the boxes holds up the 1x4 which will hold my mud until it firms up. I was holding my scratchcoat as thin as possible on this shower, probably because I only had 3x12 surface BN. Along the right edge the framing was solid so I left the scratchcoat off there.
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Unread 12-30-2019, 09:38 AM   #29
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Thanks for all your replies!
we bought the $11.50 stuff
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Unread 12-30-2019, 09:43 AM   #30
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right now we are going with the one coat method, but I'll keep the two-coat method in mind for a future shower.
I'll try to remember not to push when screeding.
Thanks for all the advice so far
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