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Unread 11-16-2019, 09:28 PM   #31
smred
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Davy,

At what point would I apply the thinset? I finished "pouring" it around 4pm, but put the plastic sheeting on top per Dan. It had some condensation under the plastic this evening so I've left it on and will check it in the morning.
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Unread 11-16-2019, 11:10 PM   #32
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If you’ve got a problem, you could hit it with thinset mortar tomorrow. Then on with the next step.
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Unread 11-18-2019, 08:49 PM   #33
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Okay, I added a layer of thinset to the outer edges where mortar seemed a bit flaky, although still solid and base seems sound all around. On to the liner!

First I have a question on the curb height. I've read conflicting posts. I know the top of the curb needs to be 2" higher than the drain. I'm assuming that the top of the curb is actually the finished top and not the pvc liner. (?)

My curb (three 2x4's) is now 2 1/8" above the pre slope, which means it is 2 5/8" above the drain height. I will also add 1/2" mortar and 3/4" quartz so the finished height of the curb will be 4" above the drain height - all good there.

I've also read lots on pan liner height, but MA code seems to only require the liner to be "at least above the threshold level." I've cut the liner so that I have 3" above the finished curb height (Finished curb height above pre slope is 2 1/8" plus 1/2" plus 3/4" = 3 3/8" - I have 6 1/2" so all good - yes?).

And, where to find some pea-sized gravel to cover the weep holes....???

Psyching myself up to get back on my hands and knees to play with more mortar :-)
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Unread 11-19-2019, 12:52 AM   #34
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Sounds like you're good to go.

Home Depot usually has pea gravel in bags. Around here they keep it out side in the garden dept.
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Unread 11-19-2019, 07:14 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davy
Home Depot usually has pea gravel in bags. Around here they keep it out side in the garden dept.
Around here, too. And I bet there's some on the floor near those big bags. And I bet HD employees wouldn't mind at all if you helped clean them up.
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Unread 11-20-2019, 02:57 PM   #36
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Okay, I've decided the shower pan liner is the hardest part so far!!! Please tell me if I have to start over. When cutting the x's for the bolts the blade slipped and I cut about an 1" slit towards the outside of the drain. It ended before the flange, but just outside the clamping ring. I put additional silicone under the slit, but I'm now thinking I need to get a new liner and start over.

What do you suggest?

Slit only runs in one direction - the silicone makes it look like it's also cut parallel to the ring, but it's not.
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Unread 11-20-2019, 03:10 PM   #37
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I would use PVC liner glue and patch it.

Cut a ring out of PVC membrane a few inches wide so the added thickness on the clamp is even all around. Tthe ring should hug the drain pipe and extend past the clamp. overlap your oopsie cut. Use one of these rings on one side, or one on each side. using a ring keeps the thickness on the clamp even.

That is just me....

I would also re-do the caulking on the clamp and follow CX's advice on how to do it.
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Unread 11-20-2019, 04:45 PM   #38
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While PVC liner material can be patched, you might wanna consider replacing the entire liner at this stage of your construction.

You'll need to remove the liner if you decide to patch it, anyway. You really want the liner laid flat on a clean surface and you'll want another flat piece of plywood or similar material to put on top of the patch with weight on it 'till the patch cures. If you plan to patch, you'll want a piece large enough to cover the entire area of the drain flange and at least two inches beyond your cut (I think that's still Oatey's recommended overlap for seaming). A round patch as Mike suggests would be my choice of shape and I'd be inclined to cut out the entire flange diameter in the existing membrane so's to have only a single layer of PVC material clamped between the drain sections. Then follow the instructions you'll find on the X-15 can or on Oatey's website.

Were it mine, I'd want a new liner in my new construction. Call the first one practice and write off the cost as training.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-20-2019, 05:42 PM   #39
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CX: Yeah, I realized I wasn't going to sleep well at night with the patch in place. $45 and some choice expletives later, the new liner and dams are in hand. Old one removed. Couldn't find your post on removing the silicone, but used a silicone removal solution, followed up with alcohol and then soap and water. Squeeky clean and ready for take #2 tomorrow.
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Unread 11-20-2019, 09:03 PM   #40
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For future reference if needed: Mineral spirits and a white non-woven scrubbie works pretty well for removing cured silicone...though it takes time, as it softens the silicone rather closely. Then follow up with denatured alcohol to remove the mineral spirits.

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Unread 11-21-2019, 02:10 PM   #41
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Ta da!!!!!

Another injury-free encounter with metal lath and I'm ready to pour the floor. Helped Home Depot with some debris in their garden supply area so I have the pea gravel to boot!

Think I'll re-read the process to make sure I haven't forgotten anything. I swear, I thought putting down the liner would be the easiest part, but getting it as wrinkle free as possible, making the right cuts for the curb, remembering to add the silicone to the underside before the clamping ring (well, forgetting and then remembering after already placing it over the bolts and had to take it up again).

Really, one should do a whole practice pan in the back yard first - just the improvements between the first and second time are noticeable. You all have so much patience and generosity towards us DIY'ers!!!! Thank you!!!!
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Unread 11-21-2019, 02:58 PM   #42
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Looks good from waaay out here, SusanMary, but we woulda likely said the same about the one with the extra cut in it.

The minimum 1.5" thickness of deck mud for your final mud bed will help flatten out those wrinkles.
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Unread 11-21-2019, 05:53 PM   #43
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I don't like the liner being folded like they have it now. I'd rather buy it off the roll. I have laid the liner in the sun for a while, it does help relax it some. Like Cx said, the mud will likely flatten it out.
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Unread 11-22-2019, 06:39 PM   #44
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Well, I was wondering how everyone's liner was so smooth!!!

Decided to do the flood test first, so the water is sitting happily in the pan with no leaks after 4 hours. However, will wait til tomorrow before moving ahead.

Question: I am using shaved pebbles for the floor. They range in thickness from about 5/16" to 3/8". I can hand pick the tiles off of the mesh and rearrange if needed, but if I need 1.5" of mortar, at what height should I set the drain? (1.5" plus 1/2" for tile/mortar?)

Or, (as I read somewhere else) do I set the drain at the 1.5" first and screed from the pan edges to the drain at that height and then unscrew the drain 1/2" to accommodate the tile/thinset?

Lastly, do I let the pan mortar dry before starting the fat mud on the threshold?

Thanks!
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Unread 11-22-2019, 07:16 PM   #45
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That can work if you have a round drain grate and if you can reach your drain from outside the shower. The other option is to set your drain where you want it to finish and use a notched screed of some sort that will rest on the drain and cut the mud at the correct height. Our friend Davy has a photo of just the thing you need, but I can't locate it.

I think your half-inch would be too much, though. You want to be sure your lowest stone and your grout will be flush with, or 1/32nd" higher than, the top of your drain grate.

Just as with your pre-slope, your entire perimeter should be level and the mud bed sloped at least 1/4" per foot from the farthest corner to the drain. With a proper pre-slope, that should mean your final mud bed is at a consistent thickness of at least 1 1/2 inches.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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