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Unread 11-10-2019, 08:28 PM   #16
cx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SusanMary
...does 4ml really bow the board out enough to mess up the tile?
Some misunderstanding there, SusanMary. Your pan liner material will be at least 40 mils thick, not 4, and yes, the liner itself can bow the wallboard a bit, but you're correct that the corner folds are usually the major problem.

You may be able to move the blocking back sufficiently by simply applying a medium pounder to the ends of the blocks. Depends upon how they were installed. The notching can be done with a number of tools, but a wide wood chisel would be my first choice. It need not be pretty, it just needs to be sufficient to accommodate your liner.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-10-2019, 10:05 PM   #17
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Just came across another issue. Contractor installed the 2x4’s for shower curb. Then he put a 1/2” cement board over the outside so it’s flush with tub deck front. How do I keep the tile flush if I have to put liner and lath and mortar on curb face! Even if I take off the cement board it won’t give me the depth I need. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
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Unread 11-11-2019, 06:10 AM   #18
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There shouldn't be any cement board on the face of the curb or on the bottom portion of the jamb. The preslope and liner need to go in next. 1/2 inch is plenty room for the liner, lath and mud.
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Unread 11-11-2019, 08:18 AM   #19
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Alright - thanks! Back on track. Here's the plan:

1. Notch studs/blocks at least at the corners;
2. Remove cement board from face of the curb.
3. Have plumber drill a hole in the new plywood layer, raise the drain so it sits on top of that new layer and glue pipes/drain.
4. Secure plywood to subfloor with framing screws.
5. Lay plastic sheeting/metal lath down and secure.
6. Build the pre-slope out of deck mud so it's flush with drain flange and rises 1/4" per foot out towards edges.
7. Put the plastic liner down (40 mil, not 4 :-)), up and over curb, secure to outside of curb only corner damns, etc. and make sure it goes up at least 6" above curb height around perimeter of pan. Secure at top edges only.
8. Secure to drain with silicone, cutting necessary holes around screws/hole. Install clamping ring of drain and tighten.

That's as far as I can see right now.

What's the minimum thickness the mortar can be on the curb? Seems like 1/2" won't be enough for the liner, lath and mortar if I need to have a minimum depth of mortar greater than 1/4"? According to the article in the Liberry, the thickness of the mortar should be at least 3/4".

Thanks all!
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Unread 11-11-2019, 02:34 PM   #20
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okay, 36 framing screws and a few expletives later I've just gone ahead and removed the 2x4's and am starting over on the curb.

Ideally, how far back from the edge of the abutting backer board should the edge of the outside 2x4 for the curb be? (allowing space for the liner, lath and mortar). I'm guessing 1" should do it?
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Unread 11-11-2019, 07:26 PM   #21
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If the little feet on the bottom of the drain are resting on the plywood, the preslope mud will be close to 3/4 thick at the drain. Since you're adding 1/4 inch per ft pitch, the mud should be 1 1/4 or more at the curb.

I'm not following your last sentence. Maybe someone else does or maybe a pic will help.
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Unread 11-11-2019, 09:21 PM   #22
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See Dayv's post #18, SusanMary. I think you'll find a full inch is pretty thick for your fat mud on the curb face unless you do it in two lifts.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-12-2019, 03:25 PM   #23
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Okay, perfect! Plumber came today and set the drain. I took 1/4" off the plywood and will reset the 2x4's so they are set 3/4" back from where I need the outside edge of the fat mud to be so I have an even line across under the threshold which will meet up with the front edge of the tub deck. Off to notch for the liner then I get to play with metal lath!

Thanks gentlemen!!!
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Unread 11-12-2019, 04:38 PM   #24
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Wear heavy gloves when playing with the metal lath. Blood will be shed, but the gloves will help to minimize the flow.
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Unread 11-12-2019, 07:50 PM   #25
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That reminds me, I need to put more band-aids in my truck.
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Unread 11-16-2019, 02:42 PM   #26
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Okay,

Pre-slope done! Here are pics of the before and after. I managed to do this round of metal lath without cutting myself - gotta love leather gloves! It's not a perfect pre-slope, but it's level and as even as a slope as I could make it to the drain. My only concern is that by the time I finished, the pan material around the outer edges was a bit dry. I misted some water over it and smoothed it out and it all seemed to hold. Admittedly it took me 45 minutes to do the whole pan so I was pushing it. I'll check it tomorrow and see if there seem to be any problems. How can I tell if it got too dry?

Thanks all for the support!
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Unread 11-16-2019, 02:48 PM   #27
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Looks well done, SusanMary.

If you just finished this today see if you have some plastic to cover it. It'll slow down the drying process.
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Unread 11-16-2019, 03:00 PM   #28
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Thanks Dan! Plastic down. Advil taken. Beer opened! Nap soon....
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Unread 11-16-2019, 03:29 PM   #29
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Love when folks have their priorities in order.
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Unread 11-16-2019, 05:55 PM   #30
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If it seems to erode on the surface, skim coat it with thinset. That'll make the surface harder.

45 minutes ain't bad at all.
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