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Unread 08-19-2019, 11:01 PM   #16
Elkski
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One other tidbit about ditra heat is they suggest a rectangle area with no more than one side being 1.5 times the other. But they don't specify if this is because of the expansion of the tile or exactly why they want you to do this. I stayed in this rectangle pretty much but I did do a little bit of an L around the corner. Also you can install to ditra heat wires per thermostat. Just to give you an example of 26 square foot or I think about 86 linear feet heating coil only is about 240 Watts. They have recently said that you can go on the 2-3 grid pattern whereas it used to be you could only put the wire every 3 cells which is an inch. Customer service or tech support has a and a calculator that converts the square foot coverage using the 2 by 3 format. . You want to make sure you put the thermocouple probes in areas where you will not have a throw rug and get a false reading
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Unread 08-26-2019, 11:17 AM   #17
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Great info Teddy, thanks for the tips!
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Unread 08-29-2019, 05:21 PM   #18
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Plumber is going to be here tomorrow to redo the shower valve. I need to know how high the valve needs to be on the wall according to standard building/building practices. I've looked throughout various code documents (california and san diego) and can't find an exact number. Instructions on the valve state 48 inches but that seems a bit high to me. Thoughts?
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Unread 08-29-2019, 06:52 PM   #19
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Have you asked your plumber? I'd think he should know this.
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Unread 08-29-2019, 10:44 PM   #20
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Davy, I believe you have captured my frustration with the plumber I found. His original answer was "whatever you want." I thought he should know as well...first or second red flag at that point. He is coming back to re-position the valve according to the instructions he originally ignored...ugh
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Unread 08-30-2019, 05:45 AM   #21
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I think the plumber is probably more right than wrong when he said "whatever you want" - as long as valve isn't at knee, or nose height. There may be a code in your local that specifies a min/max but I've never seen one in mine.

In fact, Kohler recommends that the controller for their electronic shower valve be placed at 54". Granted, it's a different animal but it does look like it'll be comfortable to use at that height.

I'd think 48" would be a bit low, unless you're trying to center it between the floor and an 8' ceiling.
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Unread 08-30-2019, 06:22 AM   #22
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there is actually a area on the control wall specified in the ADA rules. to me it seemed to be to small of an area for having a temp control and a diverted and 2 volume control valves. i think a temp valve should be located where your hand falls when you have your upper arm hanging down and elbow at 90 degrees and lower arm level. its about 44-48" for me 6' tall guy but I have long legs. . I like to be able to find the temp control valve with my eyes closed.
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Unread 08-30-2019, 07:05 AM   #23
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The center of my valve is at 40 1/2 off the tile floor. When I installed it years ago, I wasn't following any codes. I put it where I wanted it, knowing my kids would be in there as much as me. Now it's my grand kids using my shower.
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Unread 08-30-2019, 07:59 AM   #24
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Pancho, I, too, put the shower controls at whatever height the customer wants after we first decide on which wall they will be installed, preferably not under the shower head. In fact, it was common to put the customer in the rough shower and say, "Close your eyes and touch the wall where the controls are." And that's where I'd install the controls.

Much the same as electrical outlets and switches for me. Switches are centered at 48 inches AFF unless otherwise requested and outlets at one particular hammer handle length above the rough floor. If I ever lose that hammer I'll need to go to a previous house and measure my "standard" height.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-03-2019, 01:39 PM   #25
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updates and questions

Its been a long an bumpy road so far, but progress is being made (slowly). New found respect for those of you who do this for a living...where to start?

- Genius plumber #1 forgot to glue one of the ABS pieces, so I had to get another plumber to redo the drain (after discovering another leak). I'm extremely thankful that it wasn't a more expensive mistake leaking onto my neighbor's bathroom.

- Most of the Kerdi pan and waterproofing is up. Need to drypack a corner (~3" x 16" x 1.5") and extend the pan height over lightweight concrete to its final height (roughly 5" x 1/4 to 3/8" on side of pan). I got some ardex sd-p rapid for the extending as recommended by ardex distributor. Will then kerdi seem corners and edges...etc. and make a kerdi membrane dam (turn up the transition membrane from pan to rest of floor using suggestions from previous posts). I will likely need to do the rest of the bathroom floor after the shower (self leveling + ditra-heat)...any advice here would be appreciated.

- Lessons Learned: Applying Kerdi membrane to hardie walls is not straightforward (even with Schluter all-set). I fought walls drying out the thinset the entire time...should have used a spray bottle with ~50gal of water. Ended up peeling back and reapplying multiple times. I can say with some confidence that there shouldn't be any big air bubbles. My only concern is that i may have pressed too hard and worked too much thinset out in places...hope not! Also, those guys that make the videos have serious skills stating that they can do a full shower in 10 minutes...

- Once 24hour water test passes (ugh), I plan to tile the walls first (12"x24" porcelain), followed by the flooring tiles under the wall tiles (mosaic smushed hexagon roughly 3"x5" in 1'x1' sheets). Tile thickness is 3/8" porcelain. I am looking to get advice on how high I should space the wall tiles from the kerdi tray floor, was planning 1/2" (3/8" floor tile + thinset) or maybe 5/8"? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

- I will have some Schluter all-set left after this, is it ok to use that on one wall and a different thinset on another? Or should I plan to use the same thinset everywhere? I was going to talk to Ardex distributor for recommendations, or maybe Mapei?

More to follow...thanks as always for any comments! pics forthcoming...
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Unread 12-03-2019, 01:45 PM   #26
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one more

- I read somewhere that people have used redgard or similar water proof liquid to seal the seems of the kerdi membrane for extra water intrusion insurance (after the 2" overlap). Any thoughts here? As an engineer it appeals to my over-designing and analyzing everything...
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Unread 12-03-2019, 05:35 PM   #27
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Welcome back, Pancho.

For installing the wall tiles over Kerdi the type of thiinset mortar is somewhat less important than achieving sufficient coverage. The All Set will certainly do the trick, but be sure what you have left over isn't too old, or hasn't been sitting in an open bag for too long. I believe the Redgard is redundant.

Since you plan to tile the walls first you should consider doing so without installing the bottom row. Attach a carefully leveled ledger to the wall where the 2nd row will start (I like MDF trim for this as it's wonderfully straight) and tile up from there. Remove ledger and fill small holes with Kerdi Fix. Then install the floor tile, followed by the bottom row of wall tile. Doing so will give you an opportunity to cut the bottom row tiles to be consistently spaced against the floor tile. I think most folks here shoot for a 1/8" joint there but that seems a bit wide to me, mine is just a wee bit more than 1/16th in most places.
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Unread 12-04-2019, 02:25 PM   #28
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Thanks for the responses Dan. One clarification, I was planning to tile 12"x24" vertically on the 24" offset by a 3rd for each column...so each column would be separated by 8".

Judging by your comment, it may be easier just to tile the floor first, wait for it to set, protect it and then tile the walls? Grout the whole thing after...
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Unread 12-04-2019, 05:11 PM   #29
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That's how I did mine, Pancho, floor first, walls second. But my bottom row (horizontal 12X24's) wasn't a full tile so I still used a ledger board.

What I think I'm inferring is that you feel like you can set the bottom row without cutting any of those tiles. And that may work if:
The shower floor is dead level around the entire perimeter
That there are hills or valleys around the perimeter
If each of your floor tiles are set in mortar to the same depth as the rest

The last is fairly easy to achieve if the first two are true.

I don't know how high up the walls you're planning to go but if it's to the ceiling you probably want to avoid having any little slivers up there so you may need to adjust the layout down to avoid those Also keep in mind that your 12X24's are probably a bit less in both dimensions. Mine were.
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Unread 12-06-2019, 03:28 PM   #30
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Thanks for the feedback Dan, great tips!

Since I'm not in a time crunch, I think I will just do the floor first, let it set and then walls after. Since I am orienting my tiles vertically, the ledger system would likely be trickier to manage since I will be offsetting the horizontals for each column by 8".

I started to plan my tile layout, which is gonna be fun since my height to the ledge below a window is 73 1/4", which is just high enough to require cutting the lower tiles along the floor and the uppers along the top while maintaining the 8" difference per column. If I carry those horizontal lines through to the other walls (which I think would look best) it is going to mean many cuts and not the most efficient use of tile...but would avoid slivers (smallest cut would be 4").

As Mike Tyson once said, "Everyone has a plan 'till they get punched in the mouth." Hopefully I don't get punched in the mouth by these tiles...
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