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Unread 10-02-2019, 05:55 AM   #76
ss3964spd
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Getting accurate miters in tiles demands a stable saw, a good blade, and the framing needs to be darn straight/plumb.

Jeff's Rondec will be way more forgiving, and it looks good. You could also consider using stone/solid surface material to "cap" all that. The caps are wider than the walls/curb are and you'd just tile up to the edge of the caps. IMO, a solid piece on the curb is preferable to tile; no grout lines means no chance for water getting into the grout and causing mold/mildew.
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Unread 10-02-2019, 06:53 AM   #77
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I should have mentioned that I will be topping the seat, 1/2 walls and curb with granite.
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Unread 10-02-2019, 07:34 AM   #78
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When I did the river rock floor, some of the black plastic mesh is sticking up through the grout, like 3 little bristles. I am kind of a perfectionist, Soni want them out. I was thinking of chipping a small section of the grout out and cutting the plastic mesh out, the when I grout walls, just touch up the areas. Question is, will the grout stick to grout, maintain color, and strength? I used CBP Prism, which is 2 bags to a box, only used 1 bag, so should have very similar match
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Unread 10-02-2019, 06:15 PM   #79
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Take a razor knife and try to cut the mesh down below the grout surface. Dig a small hole with the knife so the new grout will have enough depth to grab hold. It should match real close but can't promise it to.
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Unread 10-02-2019, 06:24 PM   #80
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Thanks Davy!

Have another question, I am trying to cut some tiles with a 45° edge. The bottom of tile, which is the 145° angle, looks perfect. The 45° angle cut looks busted up and chipped. Why is this? Is this because of blade? saw? Technique? I tried fast, tried slow, cutting with tile to right, tile to left, taped, upside down, fast, slow, same results. the 45° cut just doesnt have anthing underneath tosupport it, while the 145° does and looks perfect. I am using a Diamondback brand diamond 10" blade, almost new, cut 11 rips through the river rock sheets, thats it. Should I try a different blade? Suggestions?
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Unread 10-02-2019, 07:19 PM   #81
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Look at the top photo in post #74, Paul. Are you leaving some "meat" on that top edge as in the photo, or are you cutting a sharp edge there?

What kind of tile are you cutting? Are they glazed tiles?
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Unread 10-02-2019, 10:19 PM   #82
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The tiles are glazed. Natural color throughout, with a thin layer of the Calacatta Peitra color on top. I tried cutting on factory edge leaving a littel meat, and it worked fine. However, now I have another prediciment, when I do straight cut (no miter, 0° cuts) I am getting slight chipping of the glaze top coating. I bought a diamond balde from harbor freight, Diamondback brand. Could I get better results with a better blade?Should I get a sharpening stone? Any brand recomendations on blade or honing stone? Thanks!

https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-...ade-64026.html
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Unread 10-04-2019, 05:35 PM   #83
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So if I am doing straight down cuts, no miter, and am getting little chip out, what is causing that? Is it a dull blade, cheap blade? Saw not stable enough? What blade would you recommend for a 10" saw, and cutting porcelain which is glazed?
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Unread 10-04-2019, 05:48 PM   #84
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I've never used Harbor Freight blades so I can't say. I like Pearl brand porcelain blades from Daltile but there are other good blades.
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Unread 10-12-2019, 06:56 AM   #85
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When I put the PVC liner in, and had to make a corner fold, the CBU didn't lay perfectly square vertically. When I laid my tiles into corner, the gap, spacing between tiles is perfect at 3/16, however, at the bottom, the gap is maybe 1/16 wide. The tiles are set, and I have tiles above already. I was wondering if I took a diamond Dremel cut off wheel, could I widen the gap, or will I just meaa the tile up?

I should have cut the tile say 24" at top tapered to 23 7/8 at bottom. Should I just bust it out, then cut a correctly shaped tile to compensate for the gap and reset it?

How hard will it be to bust out tile, remove the thinset, versatile LFG modified, with durock and 6 coats of redguard? This is the bottom tile, so I don't want to punch hole into redguard, even though in theory, the PVC liner is behind?

When I set another row yesterday, I took some 2x8 and drilled them together to make a 90, then set some scrap tile to make an identical gap, was going to try and Dremel that first to see if possible before dremeling on the set shower tile.

Should I just leave it alone?

FYI, this is where the bench starts, so the grout line will only be about 16" high, the it will meet where the granite seat overhang will be, so this isn't like my true corner of shower. Most everyone will probably not see it, but I am kind of a perfectionist, and I have already seen it, so Everytime I shower, which will be everyday, I will see it and be like "Dang, I screwed the shower up". Also of note, the wife hasn't noticed it, and say it looks great currently. If I don't point it out to her, she probably will not notice until she cleans after complete.

Another thing I thought of, was getting a diamond grout removal tool, and basically running it into corner up and down, the sand away the tile, then grout. I could always just caulk that corner, and let the caulk like look like grout line, I have color matching caulk, matches the grout color, CBP oyster grey caulk and oyster grey Prism grout.

Thank you in advance for the advice, and thank you to everyone who has contributed to thread so far. I appreciate it.
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Unread 10-12-2019, 09:27 AM   #86
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The ship has sailed for the only proper fix for that problem, Paul. You should have notched your wall studs and set your blocking such that you could accommodate the thickness of your liner folds at those corners. You'll find a description and drawings in the Shower Construction thread in our Liberry.

Without knowing just what kind of tiles you have and seeing the extent of your problem (photos), I couldn't really say how successful you might be in trying to widen the grout lines at the bottom of your corners.

Whatever else you do, the correct treatment for those joints is to fill them with a flexible sealant. The recommendation would be a color-matched 100 percent silicone caulk, which can be found in satin or sanded texture these days to match most any grout.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-13-2019, 06:01 AM   #87
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Thanks CX. I did notch the walls for the other corners, I got 5 of 6 done, just slipped my mind I reckon on that one. I think I am going to have to either live with it, or bust it out, and cut a miter into that side to accommodate. I am leaning towards busting it out, since I have twice the material needed, and it will bother the hell out of me forever if I don't. I repaired my whole house after this storm, and I see the small things I said screw it, Everytime I walk through that room. No one else really does, but I do. I am slowly, but surely fixing them 1 at a time.
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Unread 10-13-2019, 06:04 AM   #88
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CX, speaking of color match caulk, where all should I caulk instead of grout? If I have 4 walled shower, I assume each of the corner joints, plus inside niche? Maybe anywhere I go from rock/tile to hard surface (either granite or quartz) haven't made that decision yet. Is there a standard practice for where all to caulk over grout? I reckon if I caulk that bad tile corner, I wouldn't have to worry about grout line there then?
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Unread 10-13-2019, 06:13 AM   #89
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Quote:
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Thanks CX. I did notch the walls for the other corners, I got 5 of 6 done, just slipped my mind I reckon on that one. I think I am going to have to either live with it, or bust it out, and cut a miter into that side to accommodate. I am leaning towards busting it out, since I have twice the material needed, and it will bother the hell out of me forever if I don't. I repaired my whole house after this storm, and I see the small things I said screw it, Everytime I walk through that room that has a small error, I notice it. No one else really does, but I do. I am slowly, but surely fixing them 1 at a time.
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Unread 10-13-2019, 09:33 AM   #90
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The ceramic tile industry calls for the use of a flexible sealant in the tile installation every place there is a change in plane of the backing material or where the tile installation abuts a dissimilar material. Only exception I'm aware of is at the drain in a shower floor where grouting is permitted.

But some folks grout a lot of places in a shower that call for the flexible sealant. And some of those joints crack. In a properly constructed shower that's only an aesthetic consideration, but it's still a crack and still a tile installation failure. Entirely up to you how you wanna treat yours.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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