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Unread 07-28-2019, 01:15 PM   #31
attdsltech
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Ok ready for next steps. Kerdi finished, tub in and drain connected. Kerdi drain set(no access method). Ready for drypack mortar bed. Have some questions. I did a trial run on a mockup to get a feel for the drypack method. Mixed Sand topping with sand for a 5 to 1 ratio. How much water should be added? Just enough to get it to form a ball? On the dry run I added a little water past the intial point but not wet. It did not look like the consistency I see on videos. On videos it almost looks dry compared to my test. Next day the surface was firm on my test not flaking or loose surface. I ask because screeding was not as easy as I see on the videos. Second question. How durable is the mud bed and kerdi to stand on for wall tile installation? What is needed to protect surface while doing walls?

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Unread 07-28-2019, 01:50 PM   #32
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Dennis, if you'll look for the Shower Construction thread in our Liberry, you'll find at least one article here on the parent site with instructions for deck mud, including how to mix it and photos of how a properly mixed deck mud should look.

If you've seen photo that made it look pretty dry, they were probably accurate. What you're looking for is what you might want to use to build a sand castle. Too wet makes it much more difficult to place, pack, and shape properly. It's called dry-pack by the old timers for a reason.

I like to add just a tiny bit more water (and usually some dry thinset mortar) to a small portion of the mix that I use to pack under a bonding flange drain such as you have.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-02-2019, 08:24 AM   #33
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Ok tried with less water total fail. Now need to remove mortar and start over. The question now is how to breakup mortar around kerdi drain without damaging the drain flange. I have not access to plumbing from below and damaging the drain will be a disaster. Mortar around drain is very hard since it was much wetter than rest. Any advise?

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Unread 08-02-2019, 10:16 AM   #34
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With deck mud, 'specially rather fresh deck mud, it's generally not at all difficult to remove once you start a break in it and can get something between the mud and substrate. A medium pounder will usually be all that's needed to start the process.

If the mud under your bonding flange drain is still solidly in place, leave it. A slurry coat of pure Portland or thinset mortar will usually be sufficient to bond your new mud bed to the old portion under the drain.

Don't know what to tell you about your mud. You are packing it firmly before you try to cut it to shape?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-02-2019, 01:07 PM   #35
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Thanks for reply. It only took 30 mins to remove mortar bed. Definitely too dry. Was able to get mortar from under flange with a chisel. Had enough play in plumbing to raise it enough to break out mortar. Giving it another try in a hour. Going with more water and work faster this time.

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Unread 08-03-2019, 11:27 AM   #36
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Second attempt was much better. Surface is solid no soft areas. There are a few spots where the surface flaked a little. Less than a 1/4 " deep and largest maybe 2" wide. Can these areas be skimmed with thinset before kerdi is applied? Also have a few minor low spots less than 1/8". Would they also need skimming before kerdi? I have Kerabond T. Would that work to skim or is there a better product to use? Last question. How long should I wait to skim it and then apply kerdi? Thanks for the help so far

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Unread 08-04-2019, 07:07 PM   #37
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Ok I tried to search for answer on how soon I or if I can use thinset to fill imperfections in deck mud but no luck. I vacuumed surface again no more loose areas everything is very solid. I figure small areas will fill when applying kerdi membrane. Not sure about low spots and definitely not the one spot that is almost 1/4" deep.

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Unread 08-04-2019, 08:26 PM   #38
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Dennis, you can try to fill those divots with your thinset mortar as you install the membrane and If you're using a suitably long trowel or wide drywall knife for bedding the membrane you may do just fine. If you don't wanna do that, get yourself some patching compound from your local home center and fill the voids first and let that set up before installing your membrane.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-04-2019, 09:01 PM   #39
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Great I can now move forward, Thanks cx for the advice.



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Unread 08-20-2019, 06:04 PM   #40
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Just finished flood test everything went fine no leaks all seams tight, very light wicking in spots. I have one issue to ask about. I missed a low spot in a corner opposite shower heads near tub. When water drained there was a grapefruit size birdbath in the corner. Very shallow maybe a 1/16". Can that be addressed at this point?
Thanks for all the advise. I can see the finish line approaching.
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Unread 08-21-2019, 02:23 PM   #41
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Anyone have advice? The birdbath dried in a couple of hrs but would like to eliminate it if possible. Thanks

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Unread 08-21-2019, 02:56 PM   #42
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Unless you're willing to do another mud bed and cut your wall Kerdi up from the floor far enough to put a strip of new Kerdi wide enough to bond to your new Kerdi on your new shower floor. Using drywall as your backing material, it's likely you'll hafta replace the lower portion of that, too, if you damage it substantially while removing the Kerdi, which is likely. I think your only other option is to learn to live with what you've got.

Chances are that area of your tiled floor will remain wet a lot if the shower is used regularly.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-21-2019, 04:15 PM   #43
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Thanks I think it will be ok. It is near tub not shower heads. I think it will not see much water that far from where you would be showering. Another quick question. I see the debate over Wall or floor first. They say walls first to avoid damage to tile but with Kerdi on the floor would there be more chance damaging it than damaging floor tiles.

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Unread 08-21-2019, 05:40 PM   #44
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Dennis, when doing direct bonded waterproofing membrane showers (your Kerdi) I don't even install the drain until the ceiling and walls, except the bottom row, are all tiled and sometimes grouted. One of the benefits of that type of shower receptor is being able to leave the floor bare and not worrying about damage during the rest of the construction.

As for tiling, it's dealer's choice which is done first. In your case you'll need to protect the floor in either case.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-21-2019, 09:40 PM   #45
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After realizing that I could do the floor after the walls(thanks CX BTW) I have not done a single shower floor first. I set one row up from the floor which I did before but now I don't have to worry about covering the pan. I don't have to worry about anything in my boot poking a hole in my waterproofing. And even if the shower floor gets the same grout as the walls I still grout the walls before I do the pan.
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