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Unread 12-18-2018, 11:33 AM   #16
clax66
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I think I will just go ahead with what I have and have a slope from 1 1/2" - 2 3/4" over 5 feet.

I 'll get the Sand topping mix and some sand.

Looks to be about 230 lbs of stm and 110 lbs of sand. as per calculator
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Unread 01-22-2020, 12:47 PM   #17
clax66
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Laticrete waterproofing membrane fabric with mesh tape and thin set

Hi guys, I am at the stage of my shower install where I am getting ready to waterproof using Hydro Ban liquid membrane.
The question I have is around wall and floor prep.
It is a basement shower on a concrete floor and I am using a linear drain at one end. I have some small gaps in a few places between the sheets of Durock and I want to understand the best way to handle these.
I am going to use mesh tape with thin set initially. Can I use the Laticrete Waterproofing Membrane Fabric over the mesh tape later for waterproofing?
This is more of a concern at the base of the walls where the wall has a small gap between it and the mud pan. I want to make this shower bullet proof so I never have to worry about it. I'd love to use the fabric membrane but feel I need to fill in the gap with thin set and mesh tape which may leave it all to bulky later on for tile
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Unread 01-22-2020, 05:18 PM   #18
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Andrew, since you've got this thread going about your shower, asking subsequent questions here will allow us to answer without having to ask follow up questions repeatedly.

I would just use the mesh tape and mortar, let it dry, and apply the liquid membrane over it. No need to have two layers of waterproofing there.

Are you using the liquid on the floor as well?
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Unread 01-23-2020, 10:16 AM   #19
clax66
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I am using the liquid membrane on all walls and floor.
I am just very worried about the gap under the wall where the durock sits on the drain flange. If I don't get the gap filled perfectly with thin set and mesh then the liquid membrane will have to cover any mistakes. I was hoping to use the membrane fabric as an extra safety layer at the base of the walls over the mesh and thin set.
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Unread 01-23-2020, 01:59 PM   #20
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You can do that, but if the fabric has a large gap with no support it may not hold very well.

If you can post a picture of the area you're referring to, it may generate some ideas.
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Unread 01-28-2020, 11:31 AM   #21
Sharon @ LATICRETE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew
Hi guys, I am at the stage of my shower install where I am getting ready to waterproof using Hydro Ban liquid membrane.
The question I have is around wall and floor prep.
It is a basement shower on a concrete floor and I am using a linear drain at one end. I have some small gaps in a few places between the sheets of Durock and I want to understand the best way to handle these.
I am going to use mesh tape with thin set initially. Can I use the Laticrete Waterproofing Membrane Fabric over the mesh tape later for waterproofing?
This is more of a concern at the base of the walls where the wall has a small gap between it and the mud pan. I want to make this shower bullet proof so I never have to worry about it. I'd love to use the fabric membrane but feel I need to fill in the gap with thin set and mesh tape which may leave it all to bulky later on for tile
Hey Andrew, great questions. Generally the best way to handle the board end seams for cement backer board is with an alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh, and a polymer-fortified tile mortar, just as you mentioned in your question. In fact, that is a requirement of the board manufacturer (and ours as well). You can use this method where your board meets the mud pad if you want to pre-treat some larger gaps first.

Once the cement boards are “taped”, and the thinset dries, you can do your two coats of HYDRO BAN Liquid, waiting about 2 hours for the first coat to dry. We do not require fabric with HYDRO BAN…no advantage to going that route (though some do for their own piece of mind, and we are OK with that too). As far as the concern in the area where the board sits on the flange. Clean the flange well with denatured alcohol first, then pack some HYDRO BAN into the gap, and flash it on to the flange as well ensuring the correct mil thickness for each of the two coats. The proper thickness is what counts most!
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