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Old 08-17-2018, 03:45 PM   #1
pecker88
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TEC equivalent of ProLite Thinset

0.75 to 1.25 inch thick natural stone veneer, exterior job. Largest piece is prob 10x10 inch. 1/2 inch concrete board got 2 coats of custom building products, redgard.

I called them and they recommended their ProLite modified thinset. The local store here only has white, and the natural stone is dark color. Does that matter? Stone will get grouted dark color.

Is there an equivalent TEK thinset that a local store may have in grey?

Thanks!!
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Old 08-17-2018, 04:01 PM   #2
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White is fine, grey thinset may darken your stone even more.
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Old 08-17-2018, 04:23 PM   #3
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One more detail. The bottom portion that will also receive Stone will use traditional Type S gray mortar. Do I have to worry about that stone appearing darker than the stone above it that has white thinset?
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Old 08-17-2018, 06:15 PM   #4
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What is your natural stone?

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Old 08-17-2018, 07:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
The bottom portion that will also receive Stone will use traditional Type S gray mortar.
Will use Type S for what purpose, Dan? Bonding? Grout? Other?
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Old 08-17-2018, 10:16 PM   #6
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If it's dark stone and dark grout then I would want a gray thinset. Might do a mockup to see how big of a difference gray vs white makes on the stone.

TEC competitor to Prolite would probably be 3n1. However, if cost and availability were no factor, I would buy 3n1 over Prolite any day. And I like Prolite.
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Old 08-18-2018, 06:02 AM   #7
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@CX: the natural stone supplier included a pallet of Type S mortar when they dropped off the stone. 1/2 of the pallet is not colored, and is the typical grey. The other 1/2 is colored charcoal. Grey is for scratch coat and bonding the stone and the colored is for grout. For the scratch coat, I've been putting a trowel full of masonry cement into each batch, I've read the pre-mixed mortars are usually a little lean.
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Old 08-18-2018, 06:03 AM   #8
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@Tool Guy: Here's a link to the natural stone:
https://www.edwardsstone.com/deep-sea

Deep Sea Ashlar collection.
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Old 08-18-2018, 07:35 AM   #9
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If you want to change the Type S mortar into a Type M mortar, Dan, you'd really wanna add Portland cement rather than Masonry cement. I've never tried adding Masonry cement to a pre-bagged Type S, though, so I don't know just what you might get.

But I'd still not wanna use that as a bonding mortar for my stone.
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Old 08-18-2018, 10:28 AM   #10
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Pre-mixed bag goods tend to have too big of sand grit so they can use less cement, sand is cheaper. I find it not sticky enough and easier to break the initial bond.You would be better served getting washed mason sand, type s and some portland and make your own.
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:41 AM   #11
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@Tiger Mtn: thanks for the TEC 3N1 recommendation; I found a tile supplier in town that stocks it, but... they only had WHITE! They were able to order grey from another store and will have it tonight for pickup though; will be ready for the mason to start tomorrow. Thanks again.
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Old 08-20-2018, 06:23 PM   #12
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Dan,

I am totally confused. You mentioned a lower section and an upper. Then you mention masonary ceement? scratch coat? thinset? The backer oard has 2 coats red guard.Are you using wire lathe? Where? Are you using the ceement straight or adding sand?

Could you please give a detailed description of exactly what miwture you are using and where and how. And how are you using the thinset?
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Old 08-27-2018, 02:13 PM   #13
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A picture is in order. I'm only talking about the taller pizza oven structure in pic.

8" block make up the base structure. Poured a 5 " thick pad atop the base. Then framed with 16 ga steel studs and skinned with permabase. The block got a scratchcoat of type s premix. The permabase got 2 coats of redgard.

The redgard will get TEC 3n1 thinset, the scratch coat will get colored type s masonry cement for both the stone bond and grout.
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