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Old 08-17-2018, 08:37 AM   #16
drhughes5
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Yes pretty sure, itís Sever Weather brand from Lowes. I did search through the pile for drier pieces and it has lightened up significantly since I installed it. I believe I have some untreated wood I can replace with while the liner sits in the sun.
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Old 08-17-2018, 04:43 PM   #17
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Is KDAT the same as KD19? I'm thinking that the moisture content of undried pressure treated lumber is much higher than 19%, so the KD19 may be the same as KDAT.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 08-17-2018, 07:39 PM   #18
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I went ahead and took up the PT wood at the curb and replaced it with standard boards. The shower liner is in, Iíve wrapped it over the curb but have not yet secured it to the outside. Should I be concerned with the area I have circled not being covered by the liner? This is where the shower glass door will eventually be. Iíve seen some pictures that look just like how I have it and some with liner covering that area. I was thinking about using corner dams on the inside and outside of the curb and the overlap would cover this area somewhat. Thanks!
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Old 08-17-2018, 07:53 PM   #19
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Drew, you should be more concerned about that area than any other part of your shower construction.

If you'll look in our Liberry you'll find a Shower Construction Thread. In that thread you'll find PVC Shower Pan Liner Installation Pictures.

That should answer most of your questions. You'll need to re-do the corner I see in your photo, but that should not be difficult at all.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 08-17-2018, 08:28 PM   #20
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Perfect, from those pictures they handled the area by glueing an outside corner piece. I got the corner dam idea from a google search, I think it will have the same end result.
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Old 08-18-2018, 07:35 AM   #21
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There in the circle, I hope you didn't cut the liner too low. No cuts in the liner below the top of the curb. Add the corners like the pic shows. Notching the studs helps keep the folds from bulging out the CBU.

Also, if you make the blocking a little taller then you'll be able to keep your CBU screws 3 inches higher than the curb. Not sure if your blocking is high enough to do that. Adding a 2x4 block between the studs would help.
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Old 08-18-2018, 07:49 AM   #22
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17% battery life and running wifi and bluetooth...you like to live dangerously... lol
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Old 09-04-2018, 01:17 PM   #23
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Fred, I only live dangerously when it comes to battery life and refilling on gas

Davy, it may be hard to tell from the angle in the last picture but the top of the blocking is ~4.5" above the top of the curb.

I ended up using the corner dams as shown above along with some extra PVC liner to take care of those areas. I put up 7/16" OSB to offset the bulge at the corners and to also stiffen up the shower wall that now has a pocket door behind it. I also covered the OSB with the same 15# roofing felt used underneath the pre-slope mortar bed. I do plan to RedGuard everything so the roofing felt may have been a little overkill.

I ordered a Noble curb overlay and will be installing that today. I have a few more questions regarding the rest of the process.

1. Are you supposed to put up cement board prior to putting in the final mortar bed or does that sequence matter?

2. I've researched around and I'm still not sure if I have found a definitive opinion on embedding cement board into the final mortar bed. I will be using the PermaBase cement board from Lowes.

3. Since I decided to go with a half wall look, I will have quite a few outside corners to deal with. I am looking for recommendations on how to handle the corners where cement board meets cement board and also where cement board meets sheetrock?

Thanks again everyone for your inputs!
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Old 09-04-2018, 01:19 PM   #24
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I forgot to mention that I also filled the pan up to the curb and let sit for 24 hours with no observed leakage!
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Old 09-04-2018, 01:28 PM   #25
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I wouldn’t use the redgard. If you’ve properly installed your moisture barrier and pvc liner, there’s no need for it. And it may actually cause more harm than good by trapping moisture. Pick one method and go with it.

I believe permabase can be embedded in the top mud bed but call national gypsum to verify. If you can, don’t screw any lower than 2-3” above the curb. The mud bed will serve to lock the bottom edge in place.

I thinset and alkali-tape the outside corners. Same for cement board and drywall seams if they’ll be in a wet area.
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Old 09-04-2018, 08:04 PM   #26
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Wher exactly did you put up the 7/16 osb? On the studs? One wall or all 3?

Note: use thinset and ceement board approved mesh tape on all seams and corners.

Note:use metal lathe and fat mud over liner fot your curb No fasteners on curb except at bottom on the outside, none on inside or top.
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Old 09-04-2018, 10:27 PM   #27
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Thanks I will check on the permabase tomorrow. If itís ok to embed I will go ahead with that route. If not, what is the recommended gap between the bottom of the cement board and the mortar bed, ~1/2Ē?

I put OSB on the studs on all three walls. I had already planned on OSB on the pocket door wall and opted for all three to deal with the bulge in the corners.

I actually just installed the Noble curb overlay instead of trying to lathe and mud the curb. It was very easy to install and worth the $45, thatís assuming it holds up.
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Old 09-04-2018, 10:36 PM   #28
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Drew, we usually advise to install the CBU down to within 1/2-3/4 inch of the floor/liner. Then you can push a little mud back under the liner to support it. You can also apply several blobs of thinset behind the CBU along the bottom to help too. Place a 4 ft level on the face of the CBU and push the CBU and thinset back until flat and hopefully plumb. The thinset and mudbed will support the CBU along the bottom since no nails or screws are allowed down there.

I see now that Lou already touched on this.
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Old 09-06-2018, 11:24 AM   #29
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Thanks everyone, I have all of the cement board installed except for the three lower pieces. I will be installing those this evening per your recommendations.

Before I install these pieces, I have a question regarding where the curb overlay (almost) meets the wall. Because of the corner bulges I had to cut the overlay just short of the wall. This has left ~7/16" gap between the curb overlay and the wall. Looking back on it I should have just notched the overlay instead of cutting it clear across .

Since I have the 7/16" OSB, when the cement board is installed it will sit right on top of the curb essentially creating an air gap in this area. Does anyone see this as a potential issue? I considered filling the gap with silicon, deck mud, or thinset but do not see the need as long as there is no issue. This same gap exists at the other curb / (almost) wall interface.
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