Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-01-2018, 09:39 AM   #106
ss3964spd
Registered User
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 1,239
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
Well, that was a lot of screws. Consumed the vast majority of a 5 pound box of 1 3/4 #8 construction screws. The 1 1/4" screws for the 1/2 ply over 3/4" ply were just not doing the trick so used the 1 3/4" screws there too.

Decided to go forward with Ditra Heat and Schulters programmable thermostat. Not the WiFi model though - as I'm hard pressed to see the need. Thanks to Wayne, who provided its measurements in a previous post (I wasn't able to find the measurements in any of Schulter's online materials), I cut out a cardboard template, then installed a 3 gang switch plate, and was able to get the right edge of both lined up. The t-stat box needed to go left by 3/16".

I also followed Jeff's (I think it was Jeff) recommendation; swapped the box for an EMT box and used some 1/2" flexible EMT conduit and the super easy snap in connectors. Ran conduit for both the cold leads and the temp sensors. I'm pretty sure I went a little over board on securing the conduit.

Plumbing, electrical, and framing concealment inspections scheduled for Friday.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2018, 09:47 AM   #107
Gozo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 262
Hi Dan,
I canít tell from the pictures, but down my way, the inspector wanted the cold lead (line power) and the low voltage leads (sensors) in separate conduits. I see you have 2, but canít see whatís in them. Just sayiní so you donít get nicked and have to have a return inspection (here thereís a fee for each visit).
Hopefully, an easy pass so you can move on.
__________________
Jeff
Gozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2018, 10:31 AM   #108
ss3964spd
Registered User
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 1,239
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
Not sure why the text of my previous post is appearing twice. I tried to do some editing but evidently botched it somehow.

Jeff, I wasn't sure what the inspectors wanted in regards to the floor so I called them. According to them the only thing they want to see is the 120V to the box. Didn't care about the conduit, nor what will be in it, for purposes of the concealment inspection.

Regardless, the cold leads will be in one, the temp sensor wires in the other. At the moment though, there are only pull strings in them.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2018, 11:05 AM   #109
wwhitney
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 1,013
FYI, that flexible blue tubing is called ENT (Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing), not EMT (Electrical Metallic Tubing).

Cheers, Wayne
__________________
Wayne
wwhitney is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2018, 11:55 AM   #110
ss3964spd
Registered User
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 1,239
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
well, I normally appreciate your attention to detail, Wayne.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2018, 03:39 PM   #111
makethatkerdistick
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: North Texas
Posts: 334
Well, Dan, since we're already talking about paying attention to detail, quit calling them "Schulter." It's "Schluter" (with the umlaut eliminated in English to not confuse people). As a German, I can't help but point that out.

PS: "Schulter" in German means "shoulder."
__________________
Wolfgang
makethatkerdistick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2018, 06:25 AM   #112
ss3964spd
Registered User
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 1,239
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
I'm half German so any excuse I offer to explain misspelling Schluter would be for naught.

But that won't stop me from trying, so, I blame it on my misplaced reliance on spell/auto correct. Or maybe its a subconscious thing, because my left schulter has been acting up.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2018, 10:04 AM   #113
ss3964spd
Registered User
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 1,239
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
Wall Hung Toilet - DW or HB?

Have finally started hanging drywall. Bought two 8' sheets and four 10' sheets. The two 8's were for the 7' wall where the wall hung toilet resides, hung them horizontal, and the 10's were for the two long walls. Only it turned out the 10's were 2.25 inches too short. Yeah, sometimes I don't measure so good. No way to make them work without butt seams and I worked too hard making the walls flat to settle for a drywall seam humps.

Back to Depot for three 12's. Only 3 as one of the two long walls has the bathroom entry door in it so one of the now "in stock" 10's was used. Net result; only 3 mid-wall tapered edge horizontal seams to tape and mud. The rest of the two long walls, and the other short wall, in the shower area will have USG 1/2" foam backer board (quite a challenge to track down four 4X8 sheets of that stuff). The butt seams between the drywall and backer will be treated appropriately and covered with tile.

Which brings me to an actual question. The framing for the wall hung toilet is approx. 3X6. As mentioned I have lots of DW in stock so a single 3X6 sheet would be easy.

The toilet wall will be tiled with 3/4" square mosaic. So, given the loads imparted to the wall by the wall hung toilet, especially at the bottom, do you think the drywall will be ok, or should I be considering something more dense/less compressible, like Hardi?
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2018, 03:15 PM   #114
makethatkerdistick
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: North Texas
Posts: 334
Dan, are you concerned about the framing flexing enough to put pressure on the drywall? I am doubtful whether the backerboard would give you an advantage but you could use it just in case if you have a spare. If not, I wouldn't bother. Hardie is hardier than drywall but I am not sure if it would be better at catching a possible structural load.

Thankfully, I only ever had to purchase the eight footers for my remodel. I shudder at the thought of handling 12 ft panels. They're so bendy and so unpleasantly gypsum-ish. I trust you'll hate the installation and mudding as much as I did.

And that moment of surprise when you have been duped by your own erroneous calculations or measurements! That moment when you want to cuss loudly but have to maintain your reputation and your sanity and thus abstain from doing so. I know it too well.
__________________
Wolfgang
makethatkerdistick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2018, 07:53 AM   #115
ss3964spd
Registered User
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 1,239
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
Not at all concerned about the framing, Wolfgang, it is very stout. Was thinking more about the drywall being compressed.

The toilet hangs on two threaded rods, fairly close to the top rear edge of the toilet. As such it will act as a lever when sat upon, pressing the very bottom, which is the shape of a rounded V, against the wall. Every time.

If I were using a large format tile behind it I'd think nothing of covering it with drywall - the load would be spread out. But with the itty bitty mosaics, and given how easily drywall dents, I wonder if the concentrated, repeated loading won't dent the drywall over time.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.

Last edited by ss3964spd; 08-30-2018 at 08:18 AM.
ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2018, 09:02 AM   #116
makethatkerdistick
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: North Texas
Posts: 334
Ok, you mean the compression exerted when you screw your toilet body against the wall. I misunderstood before. The cement board would probably make me feel more comfortable. But it's just a feeling. I couldn't back it up with anything. What does the Geberit installation manual say? I'd give them a call. I trust every point of compression exertion is fully supported with a framing member behind it.

It's a good motivator for dieting. Don't gain weight or else you'll squish that mosaic.
__________________
Wolfgang
makethatkerdistick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2018, 09:35 AM   #117
workhurts
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 297
btw Dan, butt joints are not a problem. I'm doing my entire 1k sq ft basement (framing, plumbing, hvac, electric, drywall, tile etc.) and made my own butt boards when adjoining two non-factory tapered drywall edges. I can't see any of my seams and I'm not exactly a pro drywaller.

Take some plywood or osb, cut it to about 8" wide and staple 1-2 drywall cardboard shims to it. Screw drywall into that. It creates a valley that you can mud. I purposely terminated all my sheets off (away from) studs and joists.
__________________
Ali
workhurts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2018, 09:56 AM   #118
wwhitney
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 1,013
A little googling suggests that drywall has an ultimate compressive strength of 350 psi, while hardiebacker's spec sheet says 1/2" nominal board has a compressive strength of 6500 psi (I assume also ultimate).

What's the geometry at the bottom of where the toilet contacts the wall? Does the carrier have a flush horizontal bar or something like that so that the wall board has backing behind it?

Cheers, Wayne
__________________
Wayne
wwhitney is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2018, 10:36 AM   #119
ss3964spd
Registered User
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 1,239
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
Thanks Wayne, was about to google them myself. I already knew HB was far more dense, just didn't know the number.

Yes, there is a horizontal bar just below the drain outlet on the carrier, barely visible in a picture in post #69 of this thread. Not concerned about flexing, just trying to determine if I can get away with regular drywall.

Wolfgang, this from the install instructions:

Install wall surface material such as high density Gypsum / green Board, Cement Board, Tile Backer Board with optional ceramic tile finish surface as the most suitable materials. Provide cut outs for the protruding parts like rods, inlet and outlet pipes and the rectangular access box.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2018, 10:55 AM   #120
ss3964spd
Registered User
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 1,239
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
Thanks for the tip Ali. your basement project sounds exactly like my basement project was, had to do it all down there; framing, plumbing, electrical, tiling, trim - all of it.

And I did use that method a few times down there were tapered seams didn't land on studs. It works well, just a little more time consuming.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Master Bathroom Remodel smvatter Tile Forum/Advice Board 9 10-22-2017 03:01 PM
DIY'er Doing A Master Bathroom Remodel hoogguns Tile Forum/Advice Board 91 12-25-2013 05:27 PM
Stu's master bathroom remodel Stu27 Tile Forum/Advice Board 13 10-28-2011 01:52 PM
master bathroom remodel dizzyj Tile Forum/Advice Board 29 11-09-2009 11:10 AM
Tae's master bathroom remodel dontnomuch Tile Forum/Advice Board 91 03-18-2009 11:38 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:38 AM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC