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Old 08-18-2018, 04:41 PM   #16
jadnashua
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There are at least four different generic types of modifiers that can be used to make thinset mortar. As far as I'm aware, only one of them requires drying for the mortar to attain its stated strength and stability, and that's one made with a latex based modifier. But, because the ANSI specification does not make that distinction in their specifications descriptions, and manufacturers are known to make formulation changes, it gets dangerous to 'bless' a particular mortar that you don't control. To solve that in the NA market for people that want a modified, Schluter markets one they know will work, because they control the manufacturing of it. Other companies also have some that will work reliably, but again, because those other companies do not tell Schluter when or if they might be changing the configuration, it would be dangerous to endorse the use of them. So, the easiest thing is to follow Schluter's instructions when using their products. If you want a system warranty, that's what you'll do. That doesn't mean that others won't work, and some of them specifically state that and will warrant their use (from what I've heard, haven't actually checked).

It can get messy with finger pointing to establish 'blame' if something does fail when multiple companies are involved. Much easier when it's all from one. And, if you do 'keep it in the family', the warranty can be longer as well.
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Old 08-18-2018, 05:49 PM   #17
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George,

Did you check your subfloor to see how flat it is. With those small tiles you will want that floor very flat BEFORE you install your backer board. I much prefer a real ceement board rather than hardi backer. Hardi is hard to counter sink screws and sucks the moisture out of the thinset way to fast.

Check out Laticrete liquid Hydroban. It will waterproof your floor and it is an anti fracture membrane which is vry cheap insurane. Fill any gaps in the ceement board first and let dry before applying.

I would tape the seams as I tiled. This way you will not get any humps and you are following the instructions.
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Old 08-18-2018, 08:10 PM   #18
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Not sure how you're gonna make that work, Mark. The mesh tape is required to be bedded into the thinset mortar used to fill the joints between the CBU panels. Not gonna be able to do that if you've painted over the CBU and mortar with Hydroban, eh?
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Old 08-19-2018, 10:01 PM   #19
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How much of a height difference is there from the drain to the level area of the tile? (I'm trying to understand how deep your shower pan is.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacoma88
The pan I'm using is the 32x60 pre-sloped Kerdi pan with the offset drain, which is 1.5" in height. The floor under the pan has been recessed, so the perimeter of the pan sits level with the OSB & 1/4" Hardiebacker once installed.
Okay, I see a problem. Your pre-formed pan has a proper pitch to the floor, but you’re using it in an application and at a height within the room that makes it a pan that’s only 1” deep.

Generally, code says a traditional shower with a curb needs to be constructed so that the curb is at least 2” higher than the drain. With your curbless, you still need to meet this 2” dimension, even without the curb. Most code officials I know would measure from the drain to the highest elevation tiles on the floor to obtain a pan height measurement....which in your case is only 1”.

There are a few ways to remedy this. But allow me to ask another couple of questions: With you’re off-set drain, I’m assuming that you’re replacing a tub. And almost all tubs have a 1.5” drain. 1) Have you replaced all of the 1.5” drain pipe to 2”?

2) Is it possible to lower the pan area an additional amount so that your pan depth is increased to a minimum of 2”?

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Old 08-21-2018, 07:58 PM   #20
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George, you still out there?

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Old 08-22-2018, 07:13 AM   #21
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George,

Sorry about the miss imformation. CX is correct. The boards would need to be taped with thinset and let to dry. Then the Hydroban would be applied.I do not know what i was not thinking.
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