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Unread 06-23-2021, 11:29 AM   #16
Ode
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Dry pack mortar shower over Ditra?

Apologies in advanced if this has been asked to death. Initial searches didn't yield many direct results.

Ended up having to remove a substantial section of subfloor (3/4 plywood on floor joist) to get rid of the dry rot problem in my bathroom.


I was planning on using Ditra as an underlayment for the non-shower portion of the bathroom. But since I'm working from a blank slate and the shower portion isn't that big, can I continue the Ditra into the shower area and build my Schluter curb and dry pack shower pan on top of it? Eliminating the need for a membrane and lath?

Some areas like under the bottom-plate around where the curb used to be we were not able to get to. My intention is to completely waterproof the area inside and outside the shower and a couple inches up the drywall so this doesn't happen again on my watch.

Figured since the shower area isn't that big, maybe I could run the Ditra throughout.

Shower area in blue
intended placement of Ditra in orange
question to continue Ditra into the blue area
ignore the spot in the corner, that gets walled in with some built-in shelves
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Unread 06-23-2021, 02:14 PM   #17
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Can't say it wouldn't work, Ode, can't say that it will, either. The Ditra will certainly fulfill the requirement of keeping the plywood from sucking the moisture out of your deck mud and I can see that it might serve to stabilize the mud bed as well. If you're feeling your pioneer spirit bubbling over, give it a try.

You cannot waterproof the entire room, though, unless you're willing to put some sort of dam across the entry door and waterproof that as well. What you plan certainly won't do any harm, though.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 06-23-2021, 03:28 PM   #18
Ode
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To clarify, I didn't intend to waterproof the "whole" bathroom, only the floor to wall joints leading up to the curb maybe 16" or so. and obviously the curb/floor itself.
and Ditra throughout regardless.
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Unread 06-24-2021, 04:34 PM   #19
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Schluter's response to using Ditra as a dry pack mortar substrate:

I emailed Schluter regarding the use of Ditra as a substrate for a dry pack mortar shower pan.
Here is their response:
"No this is not an acceptable method of a shower base. A drypack mortar base with our Kerdi drain flange as the low point of the base and covered with Kerdi should be uses or a Schluter Shower tray."


I mean... don't get into technical details or anything guys.. sheesh.

Although I'm no professional, I don't see why this wouldn't be an acceptable method.
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Unread 07-02-2021, 09:27 AM   #20
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What would you do in this situation

Plenty of options to fill in this oversized hole but I want to ask the pro's what they would do.

This area will be the shower and i'm planning on using a dry pack as a shower base.
How would you go about filling this void where the drain stubs out?
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Unread 07-02-2021, 10:05 AM   #21
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Most likely add a second layer of plywood with a proper hole.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-10-2021, 12:56 PM   #22
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Leveling and feathering of plywood subfloor

I'm sure this has been asked to death but my search results yield too many results with very specific applications that don't all apply to my situation.

So here goes.

I have areas on my plywood subfloor that vary in flatness, starting from zero to no more than 1/8 to 3/16 (at most).
How do I fill/float these areas and feather them into the "zero" areas?

Most of the floor leveling compounds have a min thickness of 1/8" which I want to avoid bringing the nominal surface up by that much.

I will be using Ditra as my substrate and 10" hex ceramic tile.

What's the tolerance for unevenness anyway?


I have pics if I can figure out how to send them with my phone without them being sideways
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Unread 07-10-2021, 01:04 PM   #23
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Ardex feather finish or Henry feather finish, they are made by the same company but the Henry is available at home depot
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Unread 07-15-2021, 05:17 PM   #24
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Shower valve rough in

Delta R22000 valve.

I'm a little paranoid that I didn't set my rough in far enough out.
The face of my plaster guard is proud of the studs by 3/4".

I plan to use 1/2 drywall and Kerdi so that leaves 1/4" for the tile and mortar.
Delta does state; the face of the plaster guard be FLUSH to the finished wall plus/minus 1/4". So If I push that allowance I'm back to 1/2"

My other problem is we (she) changed her mind on the tile. We were going with a subway tile but now I think we're going LFT and don't have the tile selected yet. The thickness of the tile is TBD.

Everything is sweated in should I try reset my blocking to get what I can?
Maybe I'll be okay and its not worth it?

WWYD?
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Unread 07-15-2021, 09:15 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ode
What's the tolerance for unevenness anyway?
If you're talking about substrate flatness, the requirement for tiles that size is no deviation from intended plane of more than 1/4" in ten feet nor 1/16th" in one foot.

Install the trim for those control valves and check the available depth from framing to escutcheon. Calculate your valve location from that measurement.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-16-2021, 07:00 AM   #26
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CX, I think he's asking whether there is excess allowance, in the 1/4+/- from finished wall, beyond what listed in manufacturer instructions.

First off not a pro but I'm in a similar boat with the exact same valve. When I placed the valve I accounted for an inexperienced estimate for thinset. What I didn't account for was slightly out of square wall. After getting Kerdi board up and seams covered I noticed that my finished wall may stick out 1/16 to 1/8 inch past the 1/4 allowed by Delta. I taped some cardboard and subway tiles to the wall put in the cartridge and trim and it worked. I'll test it again this weekend when the tile around the valve goes up, before it dries completely.

But don't take my experience as gospel. It may not be off, off less than yours, or I might be lucky. (Hopefully I haven't jinxed it)

That being said, if I was at your stage I would redo it. If you plumbed it yourself labor is free it's just the time, if you had a plumber, it will cost but I'd take that over the cost and time if it doesn't work later. But I'd also decide on the tile before it's moved.
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Unread 07-16-2021, 09:48 AM   #27
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Thanks for the reply.
Yes I meant the valves location in-and-out relative to the wall.
I did end up unscrewing the blocking and pushing the valve further out. I gained about 1/2" and feel a little better about it.

I'm told too far in is better than too far out because you can always get an extension kit.

I don't have the tile yet, or the trim kit to verify everything will fit. Frustrating but that's just how the project is going.

I do have access to behind the wall so if worse comes to worse I can get back there and adjust the valve depth after the fact.
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Unread 07-29-2021, 05:14 PM   #28
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Okay its starting to be game time.
My drywaller is finally at a stage where I can begin the tile process.

He did make some pretty brilliant decisions while wrapping the window which will
a) allow my wall tile to get closer to the window casing and b) not have to trim it out with moulding like it was before the tear out.

That being said, I now have the option to bring the curb a little further out of the enclosed area if I want.

I could use an opinion on a couple things.
The original shower was a pan liner so the "curb" (not a curb) was fixed and position-wise sat a couple inches INSIDE the enclosure.

I now have the option to bring the outside of the curb (actually a curb) flush to wall that meets a corner.

Should I bring the curb out to match the outside corner? Lets call this the "new location" like so:
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Second question:
should I extend the wall tile past the curb to the floor by an inch or so or flush to the outside finished edge of the curb?
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These are just a few details that come to mind that I need to flesh out before getting started.
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Unread 08-01-2021, 09:20 AM   #29
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Ode, the positioning of the curb at that outside corner is going to present some decisions on how to deal with the baseboard detail. Do you intend to use tile as a baseboard or wood?

For the other end my preference would be to run the tile 2 or 3 inches beyond the end of the curb. And the baseboard question applies there, too.
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Unread 08-27-2021, 11:29 AM   #30
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Tiling up to an unplumb corner

How should I deal with finished tile edge that ends at an unplumb corner wall?
Hard to tell by the photo (doesn't help that its sideways) but I have a laser level that's dednuts on the edge of the wall at the bottom but at the top the laser line is 1/4" in. Meaning that outside corner wall tips out at the top by 1/4".
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In any case I plan to use a Schluter transition strip but I want to hide the fact that the wall is non plumb.

Do I:
  • Set the transition strip a few inches before the corner and live with the uneven reveal
  • Intentionally un plumb the transition strip to match the corner and cut my end tile pieces to match the angle
  • Same concept as above but set my transition strip TO THE corner edge of the wall and same thing, cut those end pieces to match

If I end the tile short of the corner with a plumb transition strip (as I was planning to do), you'll visually see the edge of the wall being out of plumb. Which will bother be.


The plan is to use 12x24 tile set vertically
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