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Unread 09-07-2010, 07:44 PM   #16
zootjeff
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Best way to install grout on the wall

Hi,

Rather than derail my other thread, I wanted to see if anyone had any recent experience with this technique..

I want to put my epoxy grout into a re-fillable caulking gun cartridge. I've found three places:

What is the best way to grout a wall?
What about getting it from the bucket to the wall?
Should I use the finger method or the trowel method?


This place sells reusable poly caulk tubes.. Think I should try it?
http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/accessories.html

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7579a44/=8qggvt this also is an option..

Also found this for Quart size:
http://www.conservepoxy.com/catalog.htm
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Unread 09-07-2010, 08:10 PM   #17
ceramictec
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you probably wont fair too well with these, keep with the tried and tested way.
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Unread 09-07-2010, 08:24 PM   #18
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Jeff,

I'm always looking for innovative ways to do things better/faster/easier. Try it if you like and please let us know what you learn. But I think you're making more of a production out of this than it's worth for a single bathroom. From that point of view (one bathroom), I'd stick to using a good, stiff epoxy float. And I'd also stick to using mini units of SpectraLock so you can use all the material up before it fires off.
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Unread 09-07-2010, 08:39 PM   #19
zootjeff
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I found my local mason supply has the empty tubes with plungers for a standard caulk gun for 1.75 each.

I'm just trying to figure out the best way with the least waste.. Seems like mixing it up with a wire drill mixer, using the margin trowel to pack it in, and then pumping it in with the caulk gun would be pretty quick with little waste. I would then be going over the joints with the epoxy float to even out the joints.

The hawk with the float would work too, but won't I have a lot of waste with 1/8" joints on 12" tiles?

I've also seen videos of people using the finger method to pack the joints too..

I'm curious what will put the most amouunt of grout in the right place with the least waste. The price isn't an issue, it's more of my fatigue and missing some haze..

Also if I start an egg timer then I'll know when I started and when I should move to the next step. They say 80 minutes working time, but then it seems like they really mean 30 minutes working time (even at lower temps)..


I've done the epoxy grout before and it turned out well, but with how long it took me to clean up the thinset on this shower, it just seems like I'll be spending more time on cleanup than on the install so that's why I'm trying to come up with a different plan of attack..
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Unread 09-07-2010, 08:58 PM   #20
ceramictec
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i think your missing a big point trying to be frugal with your epoxy grout.
your going to waste some no matter what you use.

packing with fingers isn't going to work too well.
getting the right consistency for the epoxy to flow out a caulk tube before it hardens up and not sag in your wall joints is going to be tough, very tough.

Quote:
but won't I have a lot of waste with 1/8" joints on 12" tiles?
only float the joints and then cut/clean with the sharp soft grout float.

contrary to TG's hard float is suggest you use a soft wall float with the SpectraLock so it can contour and remove more grout. hard floats are a thing of the past with the old epoxies and floor work.
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Unread 09-07-2010, 09:01 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zootjeff
They say 80 minutes working time, but then it seems like they really mean 30 minutes working time (even at lower temps)..
No, I've gotten 80 minutes. With SpectraLock, I think the least amount of time I got was 65-70 minutes when it was 75-ish degrees in the shower room. But working with mini units keeps you out of trouble.

Sounds like you're all pumped up to do this, so I say go for it. Use a caulk tube to squeeze the epoxy grout in, but realize you'll still have to work it a bit with a float to remove the excess and shape the groutline. It's just not possible to discharge the exact right amount where all you need to do is smooth it out. And the surface tension is such that you can't strike the joint parallel with a float...you gotta go on an angle to keep from pulling the excess out. That means you'll smear grout onto the tile faces a few inches and make a little mess. I guess this is my "reality dose" to you right here: When I use epoxy grout, it's just about always on a large tile...12" tile or bigger. I pack just the grout lines with the edge of the float...I'm not smearing it across the face of the entire tile because I don't wanna waste it. I don't think you'll be any neater than I am using your method.

But I still think that if you're pumped up to do it, go for it. To me, trying and succeeding at something I've experimented with is very satisfying. Good luck.
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Unread 09-07-2010, 09:03 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceramictec
contrary to TG's hard float is suggest you use a soft wall float with the SpectraLock so it can contour and remove more grout. hard floats are a thing of the past with the old epoxies and floor work.
For me, a hard float doesn't dig into the joint as I'm cutting away the excess so I end up with nice, full joints. I don't like grout that's too far below the surface of the tile. If you can get full joints another way, go for it.
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Unread 09-07-2010, 09:04 PM   #23
ceramictec
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I only use soft wall floats for all Epoxy work especially SpectraLock since its so easy.

used to use hard epoxy floats for commercial kitchen floors to push around the old hard gooey honey like epoxies back in the day.

here is a picture of a textured Marazzi tile using SpectraLock and a soft wall float.
there was pretty much nothing left on the floor on the first spread but a light haze
that washed off in the first wash.

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Unread 09-07-2010, 09:09 PM   #24
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Spectralock is very sticky, I don't have any problem with large amounts of grout falling to the floor.

Get the mini units, you'll be happy you did.

The wash packets are infinitely better than vinegar.

I just use the sponges that come with the Spectralock.

BTW, I have had great luck cutting an empty latex caulking tube down to about six inches, reaching in with needle nose pliers, and pulling out the plunger. Wash the whole thing out, and fill with Spectralock. I only use this method when grouting around tile with a high relief pattern, in lieu of masking, such as these listellos.
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Last edited by HS345; 09-07-2010 at 09:24 PM.
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Unread 09-07-2010, 09:32 PM   #25
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im with brian. use only soft floats for spectralock, or any other grout for that matter.




and good ideaer Greg
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Unread 09-07-2010, 10:29 PM   #26
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I have asked this in another thread but this one seems to be taking off. I'm using 6-1/2" x 6-1/2" x 5/16" tiles with a 3/16" grout line. Lowe's carries the mini's of Spectralock, what would be the sq. ft. coverage for my application? Thanks.
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Unread 09-07-2010, 11:16 PM   #27
hbrothberg
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SpectraLOCK Coverage ...?

Using 6-1/2" x 6-1/2" x 5/16" tiles with a 3/16" grout line.

SpectraLOCK coverage will be approx 18 Sq Ft per mini unit

If you have an iPhone, iPod Touch or an iPad ....the Laticrete App will provide coverage as well as product information.

www.laticrete.com/iphone

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Unread 09-08-2010, 03:51 AM   #28
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Are those pics of the shower you are doing? Am i wrong, but it looks like a shower made of regular drywall?
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Unread 09-08-2010, 04:49 AM   #29
HS345
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Laticrete also has a grout coverage calculator you can use on your pc. You can download it here. You'll need Excell to run it ( I use Open Office portable).

It told me the same thing as Henry's iphone app, 18.1 sq ft
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Unread 09-08-2010, 05:10 AM   #30
bbcamp
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I found it easy to place plastic sheeting on the floor and countertop to catch any grout the falls out. I scooped it up and re-used it. I had very little waste.
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