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Unread 09-21-2019, 02:14 PM   #1
JWOrl
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Tub curves, how to tile?

This is a Kohler Villager tub.

I would prefer to have the Hardiebacker slightly above the "lip" and the tile hanging in front of the lip, rather than placing the board in front of the lip. It would help a lot with some spacing issues between the drywall the hardiebacker.

But how do I fill in the gap around the curved areas of the tub after the lip ends (see attached photos -- I put green tape in the area to show you what I am referring to and a piece of hardiebacker is rested on top of the lip to give a visual reference of what I'm talking about).

Do I need to carve the hardiebacker and the tile to fit the profile of the tub in this area? And if so do I use a Rotozip to do that?
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Unread 09-21-2019, 02:44 PM   #2
muskymike
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Hi JWOrl, welcome! Do you have a name we can call you? I would scribe the Hardi to fit the tub profile. Yes you can use a roto zip.
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Unread 09-21-2019, 02:48 PM   #3
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Yup, scribe the hardie, but be certain to wear a mask. Hardie is full of silica - no Bueno for your lungs and rotozipping it is going to unleash quite a bit of it.

You'll need to scribe the tile also.
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Unread 09-21-2019, 03:01 PM   #4
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Thank you.

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Unread 09-22-2019, 12:52 PM   #5
JWOrl
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hardiebacker position/placement on walls

I've tried to find information online about placement position of the hardiebacker boards before posting here but I haven't been able to find it.

Is the proper way to install board(s) on wall "B" in first, as far across as they will go, and then butt the boards on walls "A" and "C" against the "B" boards? Or is there another way to do it? Or does it matter at all? Thanks.
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Unread 09-22-2019, 01:19 PM   #6
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Assuming you're tying it all together with alkali resistant mesh tape and mortar, it makes no difference. Hardie needs to be supported by framing at inside corners.

Most times I'll do back wall first.
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Unread 09-22-2019, 01:29 PM   #7
JWOrl
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Thanks Carbide...
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Unread 09-22-2019, 05:05 PM   #8
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Do some measuring and try and get the biggest pieces possible with the least amount of cuts. If the back wall is 5 ft wide then run the sheets horizontal on that wall first. It might be best to run the sheets vertically on the other two walls.

Keep in mind that Hardi board likes to break when you try to place screws close to the edge. Don't be afraid to add a stud here and there to allow you to move away from the edges with the screws.
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Unread 09-22-2019, 05:49 PM   #9
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Welcome, John. It'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. A moderator can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.
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Unread 09-27-2019, 06:54 PM   #10
JWOrl
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Could someone advise me on what type of material to use on the studs as shims if I need to shim very small thicknesses? I read not to use the cardboard shims in a potentially wet area. Is this true? Would roofing shingles be a good material? Thanks.
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Unread 09-27-2019, 07:03 PM   #11
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What "potentially wet area" are you working on there, John?
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Unread 09-27-2019, 08:13 PM   #12
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John, what kind of waterproofing system are you planning to use?

With a surface-applied membrane, those cardboard shims aren't a problem. With the barrier behind the backer, they could be an issue.

Often just a sister to the low area is enough.
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Unread 09-27-2019, 09:32 PM   #13
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Typical cardboard is made of wood pulp. Not sure it would be all that much different than a wooden stud in many situations when in compression between the cbu and the stud, and certainly none if you have good vapor management.

Depending on how the stud is in plane compared to adjacent ones, you might add the stud sister as mentioned, or, if it's because of a crown on adjacent ones, plane down those high points so that it then matches up with the low point...depends a lot on what the wall total picture is versus a spot.
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Unread 09-28-2019, 12:56 AM   #14
JWOrl
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Thanks...glad the forum is back up! Great resource.

I'm planning to use Redgard as the membrane.

The tub on one side is a bit too far from the wall so I was planning to use furring strips + shims on that one side to make up the difference. I don't know if that's the best idea. The problem isn't that the studs aren't plumb, it's that the flange is too far from the wall right now and studs on that side need to be built out to reach it.
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Unread 09-28-2019, 07:16 AM   #15
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I'd probably just sister each stud. You can make up the difference and get everything plumb, straight, and flat in one step. Just be sure to use straight 2x's and attach them with deck screws.
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