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Unread 12-03-2019, 05:19 PM   #166
JWOrl
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Thanks Dan, I think I'm going to try it...I don't know if it will get higher rents but it could increase the "wow" factor and make it easier to rent...and it might help on the resale, eventually.

I think I will find out exactly what's in there and then contact an electrician to get an idea of what can be done, and then research replacing part of the ceiling.
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Unread 12-04-2019, 04:08 PM   #167
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if you do decide to keep the soffit & want to address the ceiling out of plumb issue & im reading the thread properly you can attach a new piece of corner bead across the out side of soffit , level it with the back low corner & then float mud in the void. You can leave it flat or slap texture or whatever suits your taste however this would be a pretty simple fix if needed .





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Unread 12-04-2019, 04:26 PM   #168
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Thank you Jay for the idea...there are three electrical cords that need to be moved or reconfigured...I'm getting an estimate on how much that will cost to do (they haven't come out yet to the house) so then I'll have a better idea of whether I want to do this or just go with the soffit.
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Unread 01-21-2020, 07:30 PM   #169
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OK, the project had to go on hold for awhile but now I've had the soffit removed and have removed the whole ceiling and will be replacing the ceiling. This is more of a drywall question but I'm sure someone knows the answer?

I want to use two partial drywall sheets running perpendicular to the joists to fill the ceiling. I will be embedding paper tape to do the mudding. I am replacing the exhaust fan in the bathroom as well since the ceiling is gone and this is a great time to get that out of the way.However as luck would have it the position in the ceiling space where the exhaust fan is located is right where the two sheets would need to come together and form a joint, based on the measurements I have taken.

If I'm unable to relocated the exhaust fan, would it be acceptable for the joint formed by the two sheets to "bisect" the area where the fan is? I.E. have two partial cutouts (one on each sheet) for the fan that come together and the mudding joint runs up to the fan, stops and then restarts? Or would that cause a weak joint that could have issues cracking later? Thanks. Sorry I don't have a photo of the fan.
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Unread 01-21-2020, 08:06 PM   #170
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Perhaps I don't really understand the situation, John, but if I do I can't see what difference that location would make except that it might be a little easier to do the cutout around the fan unit. If it somehow means you don't have adequate support for any part of your drywall, add some.

I use 5/8th" drywall for ceilings, regardless my joist spacing, but for spacing wider than 16" on center it's required.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-21-2020, 08:23 PM   #171
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This isn't the room in question, but to give an idea...if the yellow tape represented where the two drywall sheets join together...is this acceptable?
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Unread 01-21-2020, 09:41 PM   #172
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Quite.
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Unread Yesterday, 07:11 AM   #173
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No issue with what you're proposing, John, and the fan is probably designed to be attached to your ceiling joists/trusses anyway so the drywall isn't supporting it.

You still might wanna add some framing up there to mount the fan to; attaching to framing on one side only - commonly done, will leave it a bit floppy.
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Unread Yesterday, 09:10 AM   #174
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Thanks!

Good idea about adding support--they had it attached to only one framing member. I'm doing some blocking around the perimeter of the room (there wasn't any in parts) so I'll add that to my list.
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Unread Yesterday, 10:28 AM   #175
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I am using 1/2 inch drywall for this. The code only calls for 1 1/4 length fasteners. Do you think there would be any advantage to going with 1 5/8 in terms of strength, or just stick with 1 1/4? Thanks.
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Unread Yesterday, 11:02 AM   #176
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John, I'm not sure what you're talking about with blocking around the perimeter of the room for your ceiling board, but keep in mind that it's common to leave the entire perimeter of the ceiling un-fastened or barely fastened and supported mostly by the wallboard under them. The sides perpendicular to the joist structure are rarely fastened to anything but the ends of the joists and even them frequently the fasteners stop half a foot or more from the wall. May sound a little sketchy at first thought, but it works just fine.

When it comes to remodel, of course, you do what you need to do. If your walls are already covered and you're replacing only ceiling panels, you may need some more blocking than you would for new construction.

Again, I always use 5/8ths" drywall for ceilings, regardless my joist spacing, and I always screw ceiling panels. We frequently tack them in place with a few nails when hanging, but then it's screwed to the joists and sometimes glued as well. We use 1 1/2" screws for the ceiling.

In your application where you're using 1/2" drywall for your ceiling your 1 1/4" nails are technically adequate if your fastener schedule is adequate.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread Yesterday, 07:00 PM   #177
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OK. So I don't need to do this?

"2508.5.3 Blocking of perimeter edges

All perimeter edges shall be blocked using a wood member not less than 2-inch by 6-inch (51 mm by 159 mm) nominal dimension. Blocking material shall be installed flat over the top plate of the wall to provide a nailing surface not less than 2 inches (51 mm) in width for the attachment of the gypsum board."

(from the Florida building code)

From what I understand 5/8 inch drywall is only required in garages here. I already bought the 1/2 inch sheets before I made these posts after researching the subject online. The 5/8 are too heavy to work with and since they aren't required by code I decided I didn't want to deal with them.
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Unread Yesterday, 07:45 PM   #178
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When it comes to ceilings, all drywall is "too heavy to work with," John. But since I usually hafta use a drywall lift when I'm doing the drywall work myself, it doesn't really matter much which thickness I use as far as difficulty is concerned. And the 5/8ths" material is far less prone to sagging between joists.

Adding the deadwood on top of the wall plates for the ceiling drywall is something my framers usually did as a matter of course and it's also something my drywall hangers paid no attention to as a matter of course. If you wanna do that and fasten your ceiling boards to it, that's certainly fine with me. Again, in remodel work it's likely you'd need to fasten to such blocking.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread Yesterday, 07:53 PM   #179
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OK thanks. I did do some research online a week ago about it and decided to just go with 1/2 since whoever did the original work on this bathroom ceiling (installed many years ago) used 1/2 and it didn't sag. If I was doing a whole living room or something and using a lift machine perhaps I'd use 5/8 in that situation.

As for the blocking my concern was the building code...I was reading on another site that some people let one corner of a room "float" with no fasteners and that helps relieve tension on the ceiling and prevents cracks if the building shifts in the future? I might try that and use the blocks on the rest of the room (there is some already there in parts, actually, that the previous builder put in).
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