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Unread 07-24-2019, 11:04 AM   #151
jadnashua
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Profiles can be used instead of caulk at changes of plane if they meet your design perspective.
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Unread 07-24-2019, 12:04 PM   #152
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I think this is the best I got in me. Is it passable? If not, I'm just gonna cut it again except butt the curb up against the wall tile (much easier hidden notch to cut).
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Unread 07-24-2019, 12:16 PM   #153
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Here it is with the curb mocked up. If someone did this for you would they have to do it again? almost a perfect 1/8" gap all around. Slope didn't come out perfect, so a hair under 1/8 on the right top side, hair over 1/8 on the top left. For some reason, I am thinking a butting the curb would look better.
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Unread 07-24-2019, 01:10 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gslenk View Post
Here it is with the curb mocked up. If someone did this for you would they have to do it again? almost a perfect 1/8" gap all around. Slope didn't come out perfect, so a hair under 1/8 on the right top side, hair over 1/8 on the top left. For some reason, I am thinking a butting the curb would look better.
Looks good to me. Reminds me of the ones in my shower, I had to make a few test pieces and wasted a tile or two.

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Unread 07-24-2019, 01:13 PM   #155
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Now you know why I do it last...

I understand the reasoning for caulk in vertical plane, but I don't think my clients would know the difference unless I pointed it out. FWIW, I'd do it last on my own shower. I make the joints small.


Same tile different job.
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Unread 07-24-2019, 01:36 PM   #156
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I just made the curb without an overhanging lip. The sides of the granite slab on the curb were even with the tiles below. Made for cutting everything easier and looks fine.
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Unread 07-24-2019, 02:07 PM   #157
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If the T shape was cut into two tiles I might be more inclined to give it another shot. I guess the upside is there is a slightly smaller footprint overall for caulk, even if it is on a more visible plane.
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Unread 07-24-2019, 08:42 PM   #158
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Lenny,

The cut looks great! Put it in the win column and move on.
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Unread 07-25-2019, 08:49 AM   #159
gslenk
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Thanks, but something just didn't feel 'right' about it. I went with butting up the curb top against the wall.

How do ya'll deal with long stretches of Schluter profile? Thinset the full length onto the wall, and then comb in the extra tile thinset? Or nail the rondec up?
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Unread 07-25-2019, 01:12 PM   #160
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On corners like that, I'll fit first, then stab a 4d nail or two up high and hang profile on that. I drive them at an angle and just far enough to hold so I can pull out later. Get the profile close to finished position.


Next I'd start at the bottom, use a margin trowel and schmear some thinset over profile(s) through the holes and butter the wall some in between. In your case I'd have all those tiles cut, then comb the backs to set and adjust profile as I go. I'll use a piece of tile or some straight edge to flush with adjacent surface. After a few courses I'll wiggle the nails out and tile on!


They'll hold position well after a couple of courses , but don't wait too long to adjust if needed. If I'm not mistaken, Schluter wants the backs of profiles buttered, which has never worked for me and honestly, I don't see a good reason to develop a methodology. Once mortar sets, they are locked in place in a big way.


I've tried tape and a few other ways it seems like, and this works the best for me. It's like Weebles, they'll wobble but they won't fall down and the nail hole is above any point of concern.
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Unread 07-25-2019, 01:56 PM   #161
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I've used a hot glue gun, just don't hold the tip of the gun against the waterproofing membrane for too long. I've also secured with a few dabs of kerdifix.

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Unread 07-25-2019, 02:59 PM   #162
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I’ve done it much the same way as Peter. Being a DIY guy and on my first Kerdi job, I didn’t want to put any nails in it at all. Used tape to hold ‘em in place and tiled right up. Once it got a few rows in, it was well fixed and didn’t need tape to keep it in place, but I used it anyway so I would sleep easier. I’m slow, so did it over more than one mortar session. Did squish some mortar under the legs of the trim as able as I went along. Came out straight as an arrow and 100% solid.
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Unread 07-27-2019, 11:20 AM   #163
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FINALLY ready to grout/caulk!

I got spectralock in silver shadow and midnight black, with matching unsanded laticrete acrylic caulk. Should I find sanded caulk instead, or latisil? I think I may have gotten blind sided, I thought there was only one laticrete caulk

I am going to grout all in-plane joints, and plan to caulk all wall-plane changes, and wall/floor joints.

Niche:
It is a wedi prefab, so I am thinking grout is OK in there, and should last longer than caulk? Or is that a caulk change of plane deal in there?

Curb:
Has tons of angles, I guess everything is getting caulk?

Also, general order of operations (assuming where grout only is going):
Walls (silver) first top to bottom, including (or excluding?) niche. Then the trim in black, including around the niche, then curb (if there are any parts to grout) then finally the floor in black.

Also this little joy of a piece of tile, not too sure what to do where (picture with the words caulk and grout all over it)
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Unread 07-27-2019, 01:30 PM   #164
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I would definitely get the Latasil and avoid acrylic caulks at all cost in wet areas. Or get a sanded silicone caulk that's color-matched. I have the regular Latasil in my shower (incidentally, I chose silver shadow as well). It is a bit shinier than the grout but it doesn't bother me at all. Especially, when the shower is wet, nobody will notice.

I would only grout at changes of plane where there is no Schluter profile. Profiles that introduce changes of plane should be grouted.
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Unread 07-27-2019, 01:49 PM   #165
gslenk
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OK so grout both sides of the schluter profile corner?

Anyone wanna weigh in on the niche and which parts of the curb would get grout if any?

I have some waste/cured spectralock, I cut a few thin strips from, it seems a little flexible before it snaps, if that helps.
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