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Unread 06-16-2019, 12:12 PM   #166
Elkski
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The walls are tiled. The 2 x4 are what they are. It is a linear drain and a slope up to door and then down into room on ramp. I was going to make the highest point at the door. But so far glass door companies are telling me a frame door is best for sealing in steam. I'm not sure if that means a frame on the floor or just sides. I will also consider a transom top. I need to know this before I make my mud bed. And also I need to decide which side to mount door and distance from outside tile to door center line.
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Unread 06-19-2019, 08:27 PM   #167
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Well it has taken longer than I thought. But I have the walls tiled above my ledger boards except around the bench. The ceiling tiles were not a problem. They stayed in place pretty well even starting at top of the slope. It was quite tricky around the door and ceiling area.
I did clean up the floor again and will start glass waterfall then grout the tile then mud bed floor.

Looking ahead to my mudbed. Do I need plastic on top of my cement slab? What is that cement product that's good for use to support the linear drain? It will be close to 1/2" thick in some places.
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Unread 06-19-2019, 09:29 PM   #168
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No plastic. Use some thinset to bond the mud bed to the slab.

Don’t know what product you might be referring to about supporting the linear drain - ?
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Unread 06-20-2019, 05:12 AM   #169
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Turning out real nice - getting the LFT done on my shower walls was where I finally saw the light at the end of the tunnel. How'd you like cutting those weird angles for the sloped ceiling?
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Unread 06-20-2019, 05:52 AM   #170
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I should have written down the product but in the some thread some guy talked about using a cement product around the drain to support it that was easier to put in rather than dry mud. The flatness under my drain is nothing like the videos it touches the cement in fact I had to chip down 3/8 of an inch on one end for 6 in Long and the other end and the middle vary from 1/4" to maybe an 1/2" off the floor.
I ended up making a template out of my floor protecting cardboard for the sloped ceiling. The floor slope tiles and bench tiles will be just as hard to cut. By the time I got to the doorway end and knee wall end I had started using a stone to put a factory looking at on my cut edge. Plus my saw blade started cutting a much less chippy line. I wished I would have used the stone on the tiles around the Niche but pretty much all the other tile cut edges are hidden or I used a Stone. Maybe lippage doesn't meet my expectations. Having a ceiling really complicates things. I'm glad everything was pretty much in plane and square or this could have been a disaster.
I am considering shipping out more cement on the one end that touches my drain so I can lower my drain and get even more slope or reduce the ramp height.
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Unread 06-20-2019, 05:57 AM   #171
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Yeah the floor cardboard makes for a nice cutting template.

I think you're talking about type S mortar to support the drain - not sure if you need a slurry of thinset below it for bonding or if it can be bonded to the concrete directly. I also read somewhere here that you can mix some thinset into type S but that is too complicated for me.

If you can chip more cement out and lower your drain, why not? Just make sure your mudpan has enough thickness near the drain.
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Unread 06-20-2019, 07:14 AM   #172
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i was thinking about the minimum mud bed thickness.. is it 7/8-'1"?
The foam under the drain is 7/8" i guess set in thinset that will give 1"
My one end where I chipped out may end up being about 1/2" I feel like I'm heading into unfamiliar water for me and ripping up the drain would be real costly and a pain if I make a mistake.
I can bed the mud bed in thin set. Im actually going to do the waterfall today and grout first then set the drain and mudbed.. Just checking drain fit again and seeing if the heights i calculated aligns with my ditra heat height and toilet flange planned height.
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Unread 06-20-2019, 12:38 PM   #173
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Went pretty well. On these mosaic's I use the 1/4" trowel to get a fairly even layer but smooth out the lines. I try to just embed the mesh. Only two spots did I have it to thick or pressed to hard and need to clean up the thinset.


How soon can I grout the main tiles after Kerabond T? The bag show no walking for 24-48 hours then a shows a grout float. Same for Adesilex P10 for the glass.
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Unread 06-25-2019, 08:37 AM   #174
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See next post for text.
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Unread 06-25-2019, 09:13 AM   #175
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I have all the tile grouted above my ledger boards. I'm now ready to consider working on the floor and have some questions. my first question is should I install the Kerdi drain and use it as a scree fir my mud bed? . should I make a mold of the Kerdi drain like some videos show? In my case my cement floor is very unlevel from each side of the 60 inch drain and in the middle.

My plan is to install the drain using the foam snf thinset where I can, then just thin set on the other end. Will it be okay that my that my mud bed will taper down so thin in this one area? I can access the rubber clamp through a void in my cement floor that I left. what ideas that I would then fill this center section and support the drain with some type of rapid set cement because it is a void bigger than 2 in , I'm not sure which product to use? Or do I just plan on packing the center of the drain with deck mud?
So I set the drain in and then I put screed board on the back and mud bed the back half the next day I can work stepping on this mud bad as well as outside the door and mud bed the front half into the doorway. Then I will install the foam wrap and mud bed around its trimmed edges.
Can I will tile this floor which extends on out into the room so I guess that means I go ahead and tile the whole bathroom. Then I will come back and finish the lower walls in bench seat.[indent]

I carved down my foam tray on one end.
Should I plan on 3/8" slope? Will that feel to steep. It gives me .68" slope in 22" from the drain to wall. A bit higher at .78 in center of the doorway. This is approximately a volume of 4 US gallons before it runs out the door. Maybe 1 min before overflow if the drain backs up.
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Unread 06-25-2019, 02:49 PM   #176
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I set the drain. The floor was just too unlevel to make a template so I set it real level using Flexbond and then I will make the ledger boards. I hope it's ok if the Flexbond is 5/8" thick? For a small length. But I should have used my LFT or Kerabond T.
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Last edited by Elkski; 06-25-2019 at 07:28 PM.
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Unread 06-28-2019, 04:21 PM   #177
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Well I made some wedge shaped ledger boards. Today I finally did the mudbed. It only took me 4 hours and that included time to measure out 5 1/2 batches. 3 qts cement 15-16 qts sand. And transport to the bathroom. Mixing on site using pre-mixed dry ingredients was a good tip from CX. 18 qts was a bit much to ensure no dry stuff so I started mixing partial batches. Maybe I was stingy with the water. I did spray it down after and covered with plastic. I hope to get on it tomorrow and pull and fill my scree boards and then put kerdi on right away. That is a full 3/8" slope but looks pretty shallow for a shower.
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Unread 06-29-2019, 07:06 PM   #178
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Gotvthe Ditra Heat Duo installed. Use the 1/4"X 1/4" trowel and almost 2 x water Kerabond.
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Unread 06-30-2019, 04:23 PM   #179
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Slowly progressing. Pulled my scree boards and filled them. Ready for a Kerdi day and then floor tile after I get a megaohmeter to test my heater wires.
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Unread 07-01-2019, 05:49 AM   #180
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I checked into getting a megger, Teddy, but they're expensive. Perhaps they can be rented. And you don't technically need it unless you want the longer warranty, and I think the warranty might only cover the cable, not the cost of removing and replacing the tile - but don't quote me on that.

I simply ohm'd my installation multiple times.
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