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Unread 11-21-2019, 09:36 PM   #1
Lazarus
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Grouting Door Jambs?

I generally do NOT grout the jambs. I always undercut them and think that looks more professional...but leave a very small gap between them and the tile.

Just finished a bathroom for a builder and he asked me to come back and stuff some grout underneath the jambs. OK, I don't agree, but he writes the check, so back I go. Anyone else do this???
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Unread 11-21-2019, 09:46 PM   #2
cx
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Painted or stained jambs and casings?

How bad do the gaps look?

I'd suggest he have his painter caulk the gaps if he wants them filled. I'd certainly not want to put grout there.
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Unread 11-21-2019, 10:20 PM   #3
smifwal
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I caulk them if they are painted and if they are stained then I try to find a silicone that closely matches the stain
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Unread 11-21-2019, 10:44 PM   #4
Tool Guy - Kg
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I cut the jambs as exactly as I can and avoid putting anything there.

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Unread 11-22-2019, 06:30 AM   #5
smifwal
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I should have said if I miss the jamb/casing by more than a hair I caulk them, otherwise I cut them as tight as a can get them. I wouldn't grout them. I have seen people that do but I think that looks sloppy. I think the trim color should extend to the tile not the tile color extend up to the jamb, if that makes sense
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Unread 11-22-2019, 09:16 AM   #6
Lazarus
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The jambs are painted white. I try to cut them so it looks as though they are resting on the tile. I'll mention the white caulk to him.... Thanks.
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Unread 11-22-2019, 09:16 AM   #7
Just In Tile LLC
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I'm a caulker, I do also get the tightest cut possible by waiting to cut each jamb until I'm a tile away. When I first entered the trade we always went around the house first with scrap tile and used our pencil thickness to account for the thinset, marked and cut the jambs first. I guess I chose to deviate from this.

My thinking is it will get filled with dirt over the years so I like it caulked.
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Unread 11-22-2019, 01:17 PM   #8
Davy
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Justin, do you have a jamb saw?
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Unread 11-22-2019, 07:48 PM   #9
Just In Tile LLC
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I don't have a dedicated electric jamb saw. I have a hand jamb saw and a oscillating tool that I'll use depending how many I'm doing on a job. When I started the trade we used our angle grinders
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Unread 11-22-2019, 08:05 PM   #10
Tool Guy - Kg
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Didja just freehand cut to the line with those angle grinders? When I first started, I used a Sawzall and a metal blade.

I remember getting a call from a store manager desperate to fix one of their installer’s boo-boos. They had hacked away at undercutting the jambs and casings and got booted from the house by the owner. They were so poorly cut that my first thought was that someone had taken a chainsaw to them. The largest gaps were 3/4” above the tile! Yikes!
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Unread 11-22-2019, 08:43 PM   #11
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Justin, this what ya need for the "lots of jambs" jobs. Also got a diamond blade for it when there are brick or stone to under cut.
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Unread 11-22-2019, 11:01 PM   #12
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Do y'all end up using them for baseboard cutting too? I would think that's where they really shine
I usually only undercut door jambs. If homeowners decide to leave base on, all cuts are pretty much saw cut and precise upping the cost.

Tonto we freehanded them all with a diamond blade, hardwood would smoke a little, soft wood would be no issue. Usually the guard dragging on the ground automatically spaced the grinder and blade fairly well to the cut. The cuts looked presentable, you'd cut to the mark, pull out your margin trowel and snap it if it didn't fully break, maybe use your knife to cut where caulking was holding it. I would never attempt a long run that way, and we only cut the casing, rarely the whole jamb.
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Unread 11-23-2019, 08:35 AM   #13
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Justin, of I am not pulling the base then I normally would put down shoe, they don't want shoe then I pull the base, cutting it in tight or cutting all the base and having to slide the tile under it if I cut the base equates to more work so the cost would be more either way. I to have the hand saw and the multi tool and a Dremel, I use the Dremel where you are only cutting one side of the casing, like when you have carpet on one side but the door closes on the tile side. So I mark middle of the casing, use the crain to cut the moulding part and up to that line on the casing then use the Dremel to square it off. Closet systems and when you are cut the entire casing, both sides, also if I have a lot of doorways is where I use this thing the most
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Unread 11-23-2019, 08:55 AM   #14
Just In Tile LLC
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Pulling the base should be a requirement if anyone wants tile on the floor , looks better and allows the use of our manual tile cutters "breakers" as I was taught to call it.

Maybe it was my specific upbringing in tile Shawn but shoe molding was basically out of the question after we tiled. The guys running the company would either pull the base, or cut it precise to the base depending on homeowners choice. It just wasn't an option when I was learning the trade. It's weird that once I veered off on my own that I didn't apply it, it fixes a common problem, but I guess I'm becoming an old stubborn product of my teaching.
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Unread 11-23-2019, 09:25 AM   #15
smifwal
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I would rather pull the base then cut tight, less time involved in cutting, but the sigma will give me a nice clean edge on most tiles. There are also times where pulling the base isn't a option, like in a vanity that connects to the master bedroom with no door or casing. You can't pull the base because it would be to high where the carpet is, so I will put down shoe where the tile goes. Now I do agree that if you got a 4" base and it is on the subfloor then you got your backer, tile, and you use 1/4 round and not shoe then you have chewed up dam near all the base, that looks like poop. But most of the time it will be on a job by job basis, I will ask the home owner what they want even if I don't agree with the finished look. I really don't care cause as long as they get what they want and they write the check when I am done then everyone is happy.
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