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Unread 10-15-2021, 04:43 PM   #1
tarajon123
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Bathroom floor not level

Hi,
I gutted a small master bath about 8'x10' I put a laser level down and the floor slopes about 3/8 inch from one side to the other on the 8 foot width. It's an old house. The floor is flat. Is it ok to put tile down with that slope or should I use a self leveler? If I do that my transition to the bedroom will be messed up but I want to do it right.

Thanks in advance,

Jon
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Unread 10-15-2021, 05:04 PM   #2
Lazarus
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Jon....floors to be tiled don't give a rat's a$$ about level. All that is critical is that it is flat.
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Unread 10-15-2021, 05:09 PM   #3
tarajon123
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Thanks Laz... thats was easy. Have a good weekend..
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Unread 10-15-2021, 05:11 PM   #4
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Ditra

Actually meant to ask... Since there is a slope. Should I use cement board as underlayment or can i use a membrane like Schluter ditra?
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Unread 10-15-2021, 05:12 PM   #5
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You too, brother.....
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Unread 10-15-2021, 06:23 PM   #6
jadnashua
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon
Actually meant to ask... Since there is a slope. Should I use cement board as underlayment or can i use a membrane like Schluter ditra?
Either one is fine. IMHO, Ditra is easier to carry home, cut, and install, but it costs more. Not as much once you add in the tape and screws for the cbu, but still more.
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Unread 10-15-2021, 07:49 PM   #7
tarajon123
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Thanks Jim... so just want to make sure you saw that there is a slope. Schluter said flat and level for Ditra but I guess what are they gonna say. Maybe it would void the warranty so they say that. I dont mind spending a little more as long as it's ok to use it with my circumstances. Also, I'm using the Schluter shower system . The base for the shower pan is level but with slope would you trim the schluter curb to level or do something else?
Thanks
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Unread 10-15-2021, 09:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Jon....floors to be tiled don't give a rat's a$$ about level. All that is critical is that it is flat.
this is true but what about when you have a curb next to and you have to cut right triangles on it to accommodate the doesn't care about level floor. There are certain times where your floor might not care but the things around it are very concerned, just keep that in mind
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Unread 10-15-2021, 09:52 PM   #9
jadnashua
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You may want level, but in an older house, especially on transitions to other rooms, level can be a major pain on the transition. As said, the tile want level...your toilet would prefer to be level, and you'll want the countertop to be level, so that may mean some shimming of some things. Then, your corners may not be square nor will all of the walls be plumb! In the house I grew up in, the plastered walls were out of plumb almost an inch top to bottom, but the corners were pretty square.
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Unread 10-25-2021, 08:41 PM   #10
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Backerboard for kerdi membrane

I can't find Kerdi board anywhere within 100 miles of me. The company said maybe middle of december due to supply chain issues. I planned on spending the extra money for Kerdi board but now i cant wait until december. I know Schluter recommends regular gypsum board for membrane install. I'm wondering if those on this board recommend doing that or using a CBU or maybe another foam board like Go board. I want to use the schluter shower pan and curb.. just want to make sure that the non modified thinset Schluter recommends will adhere to any of the products without an issue.
Thanks,
Jon
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Unread 10-25-2021, 09:17 PM   #11
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Hi, Jon.

I've been through a lot of remodels. A lot. The questions you ask are very common and I've been through the thought progression with many people many times. So with that, I'll give you my opinions:

The wait time is not really likely to matter. Yes, I know there's something coming up and the timing would be best with not waiting for the KerdiBoard. But looking back on many projects, the timing isn't nearly as important and it seems now. So, if you really want KerdiBoard, wait for the KerdiBoard.

Gypsum is very flat, and makes a surface that is easy to get a great bond to. The biggest objection many people express is: Well, if it leaks, I'd rather have it leak onto cement board rather than gypsum. Makes sense. But if there is a leak, cement board will take much longer to show signs of a leak than gypsum. And by the time it shows the problem, it may be late enough that the structural studs/subfloor/joists may have suffered damage. In the end, it's your choice. I've used drywall very, very often. But if a customer wants cement board, I'll give them cement board.

And while non-modified mortar works perfectly fine for a large number of installs, the industry has gone overboard in convincing most people and pros that modified is "needed". Because of this, you won't hear many people say what I'm saying. But the fact of the matter is this: If you could somehow get a pickup truck to be balanced on the tiny top edge of a 12" x 12" tile stuck to the wall with plain old non-modified thinset, the tile would hold up the pick up. With that being said, there are a lot of nice features of some modified thinset mortars that make me choose them. As for you: Why not simply use Schluter AllSet modified mortar that is plenty "sticky" for anyone's taste. And it's approved for use above and below Kerdi where you previously only were supposed to use non-modified.

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Unread 10-25-2021, 09:25 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goldstein
Why not simply use Schluter AllSet modified mortar that is plenty "sticky" for anyone's taste. And it's approved for use above and below Kerdi where you previously only were supposed to use non-modified.
I know, I know, teacher!

Because it's overpriced and will work no better than the inexpensive VersaBond from Home Depot.

Do I get a gold star?
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Unread 10-25-2021, 09:30 PM   #13
tarajon123
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Thanks so much for the reply... Makes sense. I can wait until 2022 to get the kerdi board but my wife can't. I was planning on getting the all set as it is available locally. Do you have an opinion on the Go board product? I can get it now and assume it will work with the Schluter system but of course schluter can't answer that question.
Thanks,
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Unread 10-25-2021, 11:28 PM   #14
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Jon, if you want to use Kerdi, put it over plain white sheetrock and don't look back.

It's been done tens of thousands of times, and installed properly, works every time.
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Unread 10-26-2021, 07:44 AM   #15
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I had the same issue finding Kerdi Board, Jon, and wanting to use 4X8 sheets (to reduce the number of seams) didn't help.

I ended up finding a competing product locally; Laticrete Hydro Ban foam board. I quite like it really, because there are none of those large tab washers needed to install it, just their special screws. Then you just schmere some of their sealant/adhesive over the screw heads with a putty knife. Corners and seams are treated in the same manner as one would with Kerdi. The install directions also suggest you can use the sealant/adhesive for the inside corners and seams if the joints are 1/8" or less.
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