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Unread 10-07-2021, 07:21 PM   #61
bcs001
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I can cut away a 2” strip of oak flooring and replace it with a plywood strip but will I need to do anything about the joint that will still be under curb? Maybe i need to push this joint under the pan and have a solid section of plywood under the curb?

Is this being recommended because the thinset bond to plywood is stronger than the bond to stripped oak?
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Unread 10-07-2021, 07:50 PM   #62
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FWIW, solid dimensional wood just moves too much with the seasons for mortar to have a good bond long-term.
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Unread 10-08-2021, 02:45 AM   #63
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I'd just cut it out and leave the seam where it falls. It won't be any different under the pan than it would be under the curb.
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Unread 10-08-2021, 08:39 AM   #64
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I would take the contrarian view and let half the foam curb extend out over the hardwood flooring rather than have a skinny two-inch strip or plywood there.

The thinset mortar probably won't stay bonded to the wood flooring long term, but I'm not sure you'd care with that 4" wide foam piece. Might even bond that outside half of the curb with KerdiFix or similar instead of mortar. See my warranty information below.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-08-2021, 03:06 PM   #65
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Well got to work early this morning, cut out one 2-1/4 plank and replaced with a strip of plywood. Looks like it should be fine. Oak flooring us under the blue tape.

Now have Schluter pan trimmed up to fit and will set bench, pan and curb over the weekend.
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Unread 10-08-2021, 09:35 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
I would take the contrarian view
Dang it, CX!! You're so contrary!!!
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Unread 10-26-2021, 10:06 AM   #67
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Trowel Size to Set 32" x 32" Porcelain Shower Wall Tile

I know its preferred to put all my questions into one project post but this seems pretty specific and will make it easier for someone to search in the future.

I will be setting 32" x 32" porcelain tile on my shower walls and was planning to use 1/2 x 1/2 square notched towel until I found some info recommending going up to 3/4" U-notch. I took some extra time to get my walls relatively flat anticipating using large tile. There will be some full pieces and plenty of 32" high by 16"-28" wide pieces as well.

Will the 1/2" square notch be good to use?
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Unread 10-26-2021, 12:29 PM   #68
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IMO, Bruce, trowel notch size still depends on how flat the walls and tiles are. If both are dead flat you need about 3/16" of compressed mortar under them to ensure full coverage, so roughly a 3/8" notch trowel.

If one, the other, or both aren't flat you'll need more mortar to compensate. A 3/4" notch trowel seems excessive to me though.

A big challenge will be exerting enough pressure on those big tiles to fully collapse the mortar ridges. You'll have to be sure to comb the mortar on in only one direction so that air isn't trapped. A slant notch trowel will also help because the ridges tend to collapse into the valleys by themselves (unless the mortar is mixed too thick). You'll definitely need to burn a thin layer of mortar onto the back of those tiles.
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Unread 10-26-2021, 01:48 PM   #69
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I've only recently heard about these slanted notch trowels. The largest one I can find is the Raimondi 3/8" Slanted Notched Trowel. Do they come any taller or should this be adequate "assuming" I have the walls flat enough?

I can see getting these large tiles embedded adequately into the thinset will be challenging but with it being a wall application there wont be any compressive loading.

Should I also consider allowing each row of tiles to set over night before applying the next to eliminate any chance of the lower rows coming off the wall?
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Unread 10-26-2021, 02:11 PM   #70
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I have, and used, that same 3/8" SNT, Bruce, but I never looked for a larger one. I think it should work if the walls, and tiles, are flat enough.

If you have sufficient mortar coverage it will be quite a challenge prying those large tiles off the walls immediately after you set them. I mean really challenging. So the only thing you need to ensure is that the spacers you are using are not of a compressible material.
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Unread 10-26-2021, 02:23 PM   #71
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Are there any opinions on these "euro" style trowels vs the slant notch?
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Unread 10-26-2021, 03:44 PM   #72
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That Rubi trowel might work better than a typical square or V-notched one, as it appears that the lower notch is about the height of the average amount of thinset available with a 100% coverage...that means that the taller notches are the only thing touching the tile when you set it in place, so the weight per square in would be higher, letting you more easily cause that taller, narrower notch to collapse...

I've not used one, so can't give any real feedback on how it worked.

A slant-notched trowel, leaves a nearly flat surface, so if the tile AND the substrate are flat, you'll have nearly 100% coverage immediately upon setting the tile down. If both aren't flat, it might be harder to level the tile while getting the desired coverage, so it may depend on what and where you're actually trying to use it, which one might be better.
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Unread 10-27-2021, 09:39 AM   #73
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What are the thinset recommendations for large format tiles over Kerdi. I used the slightly modified Versabond to install the Kerdi but not sure about what to set 32x32 tiles with.
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Unread 10-27-2021, 10:21 AM   #74
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Bruce, only one person on these forums knows whether or not VersaBond is "slightly" modified, and he's never commented on it. That would be Custom Building Products long time, now retired, chemist, Steve Taylor.

Aside from him, the rest of us must consider VersaBond a Modified Dry-Set Cement Mortar, the same as all other ANSI A118.4 mortars.

If your substrate is flat, and if your tiles are flat, the VersaBond would be sufficient to set your tiles, but would technically void your Schluter warranty were it not already void. There are a number of other mortars out there that would also fit the bill. I would use the VersaBond if that's what I had on hand. See my warranty information below.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-27-2021, 12:57 PM   #75
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I appreciate the clarification on Versabond's level of modified-ness CX. I was parroting what I've read here in past references to it use with Kerdi but your info helps keep the records here straight for the next DYIer who reads it.

So with whats been said about the "qualified" use of a modified thinset over Kerdi, I have some Mapei Ultraflex LFT left over that I will use on these big tiles since my Kerdi warranty is already void and I can wait a week or more before grouting to allow the mortar the time to cure and release moisture from these large 32" tiles.

Also in a separate thread it was recommended to use a 3/8" slant notch trowel so I plan to order one of those and tackle this job in about 10 days.

If you think any of my above plans will get me into trouble, please let me know.
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