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Unread 04-25-2021, 01:38 AM   #1
krc
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12x24 wall tile, grid pattern... carry cut thru?

Hi ...
Looking at a grid pattern (horizontal) for a bathroom, 12x24 on wall. Floor will be 24x24 on diagonal set. Would carry the cut through to the next wall? Say my back shower wall is 5 ft, center of the wall is also the grout line , then I would have a 6" cut on either side that goes into each corner.
Would you carry then 18" to the next wall or just "start over"? I can see if you offset 1/3 you would want to carry cut piece around the corner, but not sure on a straight lay like this.

Or would you go 24" 24" 12" into a corner and then ?

(I could do a 1/3 offset but I think with the large format tile on a diagonal in a fairly small bathroom, it would be too busy. Vertical grid (24" up) might make more sense as that would be more even (5'/12") and and scribing probably not noticeable on the corner turn. But not sure I am a fan of vertical... but if this makes more sense I could do it.)

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Unread 04-25-2021, 04:50 AM   #2
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I am working on a shower right now using 12x24. I like the look of 1/3 offset and I carry the cut to the next wall. However I will make adjustments. In my case if I would have carried exactly 6 on to the short wall I would have had a sliver at the other side so I used 7.5. You do not notice the difference
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Unread 04-25-2021, 06:47 AM   #3
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I was thinking the same as Phil, however you decide to do the back wall, you can slightly adjust the end walls to avoid a sliver out where the tile meets the paint. Small adjustments won't be noticeable and helps the looks of the job.

Also, on the back wall, there's two ways to center the layout. Either center a grout joint in the wall or center a tile. Do some measuring to see what size cuts you'll have before deciding.
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Unread 07-21-2021, 11:19 PM   #4
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"Diagonal" layout at 20 degrees?

Just curious if anyone ever lays out at something other than 45 for a diagonal layout? I am in installing 24x24 tiles in a fairly small bathroom. Key "width" is 52 inches (edge of shower base to toe kick at vanity). I just was playing around trying to maximize the full tiles simply as I like the larger look. But, it is not diagonal in the sense that "point to point" obviously do not line up. I am worried this would be too odd and possibly feel out of place in the long run. The walls by the shower area will be tiled w/ 12x24 set vertically with a 1/3 offset.

Just curious as all I ever see is a straight 45 diagonal layout, and I did the same with 12x12 tiles for similar bathroom....
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Unread 07-22-2021, 07:30 AM   #5
Just In Tile LLC
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I've seen some other degree layouts in a office building, never have done one. The only think I can think of is man the cuts would be brutal to mark accurately.

My drycutter has a 15° and 30° angle setting but I've never used it. Maybe the cuts are easier to mark than I think but couldn't imagine a complex cut at those angles, would slow me down big time.
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Unread 07-22-2021, 07:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl
I am worried this would be too odd and possibly feel out of place in the long run.
Feel out of place to whom, Karl? If the owner of the bathroom likes it, and if you're willing to put in the time to do the pattern, I'd say it's just right.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-22-2021, 11:24 AM   #7
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Personally I loathe a square tile on a brick. Doesn’t make sense to me, but as Cx stated it’s your house do what makes you happy. I’ll also add with a small floor like that you won’t pick up much of a pattern with that big of a tile, I would keep it straight and simple.
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Unread 07-22-2021, 06:32 PM   #8
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Ive used a 30/60 degree layout, Calculations are extremely easy.
The Hyp is exactly 2 times the rise of the short side.
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Unread 11-15-2021, 06:37 PM   #9
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Reviving thread ... need a door plan.

So, I have finished up the tiling, plumbing, etc... and now need to think about a door. As you can see in the pics at the start of the thread, it is fairly narrow and so I am thinking of a dual bypass or single slider door. the problem is that I am 6'5" and it seems a standard height is like 72-78 at the most, and the "rail" if using rollers is usually a couple of inches lower.

Opening is 60" width...

Does anyone know of any options or is this solved by going to a custom shop? I am located in the sf bay area btw.

Or is best bet a fixed panel and then maybe a door opening of 28 or 32 inches? I do have ganged studs on either side of the opening over the threshold. This is a swanstone pan.
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Unread 11-15-2021, 07:32 PM   #10
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I see only one photo in this thread and it appears to be a test layout of a bathroom floor, Karl. What am I missing?
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Unread 11-15-2021, 10:14 PM   #11
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Adding pics...

Basically it a 60" alcove, depth about 36". I have a 4" dropped ceiling.
Issue for me is that I don't think there is enough room for a door to open into the bathroom, so a bypass slider or single slider I think would be best. But I am pretty tall, and don't really want to have to duck under the rail every time I go into the shower...
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Unread 11-16-2021, 07:10 AM   #12
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For the angle, just make a pattern you can use to mark all the cuts. Unless your room also has non-right angles in it..

Using the pattern, just set the full-tile field first, then fill in the gaps at the edges during "fun week". Very little math involved if you do it that way, but a lot more fiddling with the layout regarding sliver-avoidance up front. This is just a time-consuming task, not mentally challenging: just lay out the whole room dry and see where it has problems. While that seems like a lot of extra time, you also get an opportunity to shuffle and inspect the tile, which is a task you'll need to do anyway.

If you have the presence of mind, you can also clean them on their way back into the boxes. More than one post here references tile that just pops right up. There are a few causes for this, but one is dusty tile. I prefer the tile to be rather waterlogged (more than just the trivial amount added by being wiped off with a damp sponge), but certainly NOT dripping wet. Dry tile wicking the moisture out of the thinset mortar is another big cause of poor adhesion, so cleaning (wiping *and* rinsing) the tile kills two birds. It stays wet for a long time when stacked and re-boxed, just be wary of soggy boxes, and don't store for so long that mold starts to play.
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Unread 11-16-2021, 07:52 AM   #13
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I can't imagine a reason a glass shop can't make a taller door/panel, Karl. Likely to be more expensive than a standard off the shelf unit.
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