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Unread 12-31-2010, 11:05 AM   #1
tiger65rick
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Questions on remodel of small master bath

Good morning all! So glad I found this site! We recently purchased this home 6 months ago and knew it had some fixing up to do on it. It is a 1976 1500 sq ft stick built on a slab. Typical suburban home in a nice neighborhood. We plan on living here as our primary residence for at least the next 5 yrs. We installed laminate flooring throughout the house, painted, patched, did a cosmetic makeover of the hall bath and kitchen but are just getting around to updating much-in-need master bath. So we have decided to plunge in and gutted the 50 sq ft space. No options on increasing square footage but we have removed a non bearing partition wall between vanity and toilet/shower area that will hopefully open things up. Old shower was a 32x60 pan with a surround made from, of all things, wall paneling glued to green board. We were very concerned we would find lots of mold as the bottom of the paneling was separating from the pan. To our surprise there was only a very little bit of mildew on the bottom inch or so that never penetrated up to the green board. However, one wall opened up also gave us access to the hall bath behind the tub/shower combo that has mold on the back of the green board, most obviously at the seams. As we are currently in the midst of this project, we will have to wait to do the tearout on that one. I am cleaning up the visible mold but would like to know if there is a way of decreasing our chances of more build up after I have put the drywall back up. Our other issue is the opposite wall which is an exterior wall. The house is old style stucco with a single layer of no. 15 felt paper and there is some condensation that has built up in a section of the wall. The tar paper is wet though appears to be drying out some now. My suspicion is that it stemmed from when we first got here and the previous owners had put dirt on that side of the house a couple inches up the wall. It is in the area where the plumbing for the sink and toilet come up through the footer. I have since dug the dirt out away from the wall and foundation so it can breathe. I guess my question on this is whether I am most likely accurate in my supposition and how best to reinsulate, vapor barrier etc. We will be doing a 32x60 Kerdi shower system. I will be using standard drywall and planned on using r13 faced batts with the idea that it might also be a good idea to put 15lb felt behind the drywall (over the insulation). I also plan on insulating the 1/2 in copper piping better as it is on an outside wall and could cause condensation problems. Whew! Any thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated!
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Unread 12-31-2010, 11:21 AM   #2
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Rick,

Welcome to the forum. You're at the right place.

1- If you could do us a small favor and number your questions sequentially. It helps when some pro's can answer some questions and not others, and when a question gets hashed over a few times. Saves on typing big time, and reduces confusion, which, lord knows I certainly need.

2- Clean the mold with the mix-it-yerself concoction listed in our library. Let the walls dry out thoroughly before closing them. Use a dehumidifier if needed. Box fans while using the house HVAC system as normal will also help if you don't have a dehumidifier. Get the air moving. Once you stop the moisture, the mold will die.

3- I'd skip the tar paper, you really don't need it.

4- Got pics? we like pics. They help us 'look over your shoulder' as it be.
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Unread 12-31-2010, 11:55 AM   #3
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Pics I do!

Thank you for the advice Paul!

1. So you don't feel the mold will migrate back into the wall too quickly before we get a chance to do redo the hall bath?
2. The condensation on the tar paper that backs the stucco on the outside wall?
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Unread 12-31-2010, 12:00 PM   #4
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1 & 2 - You have to stop the water at its source before moving forward, whether the water comes from inside the house or outside. If the digging and re-grading solves the issue you are good to go. Got pics of the outside? Nothing will stop the mold if you are still getting water from the outside. We have had DIYers on this forum with serious landscaping issues, you are not alone.

Otherwise your framing looks to be solid and not rotting.
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Unread 12-31-2010, 12:32 PM   #5
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Outside pic

Yes we are very thankful for no rot! Had a window leak in my daughters bedroom that had rotted the sill and several studs on the side it leaked down that I had to replace. Btw, almost all the insulation I pulled out of this outside wall was blackened on the facing and edges. Plus the tar paper is deteriorating. In the picture the soil used to be up on the wall by several inches up until a month or so ago. We were getting an ant invasion and that is when I finally decided best to dig out. Come spring this will be all cleared out, the drainage checked and then concreted. Can't see it in the pic but the drain for the sink comes up here also.
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Unread 01-03-2011, 08:57 AM   #6
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First time shower panel install - no instructions

Hi all. We were able to get a hold of a shower panel dirt cheap from a builders leftover stock but there were no instructions with it. It seems fairly straightforward but I have 2 questions please. I am a diyer installing a 32x60 Kerdi system over standard drywall.

1. Do I need studs behind where the 4 anchors for the frame will go? The guy we bought it from mentioned this but seems to make no sense with the type of anchors provided. Also, will the penetrations compromise the kerdi?
2. I plan on 90'ing the pipes out thru the wall and installing ball valves for the hose connections, how would the piping penetrations be sealed best with the Kerdi?

Thank you!
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Unread 01-03-2011, 09:02 AM   #7
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Hi Rick,
I merged your new question into your project thread. Please keep all your questions regarding this project right here in your main thread. We like to keep "one project, one thread". Makes it easier for folks to follow along and see what has already been asked/answered.

Not sure about what this shower panel is but maybe someone else will chime in and help you out.
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Unread 01-03-2011, 09:04 AM   #8
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Rick, you got any idea who made this thing? Maybe they got a website?

In any event, avoid penetrations through the Kerdi if you can. If you can't gob some 100% silicone caulk onto the screws and into the anchor holes, then coat the screw heads with the caulk. Anything that bears weight needs to have blocking or studs in the walls.

Piping penetrations can be sealed with silicone caulk or Kerdi-fix. Schluter makes some pipe penetration seals, too. Nice if you have them, not necessary if you don't.
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Unread 01-03-2011, 09:05 AM   #9
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What Bob said plus;

before shooting in the goober of silicone, be sure to blow out the dust from the hole thoroughly. Silicone doesn't stick well to dust.
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Unread 01-03-2011, 09:14 AM   #10
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Sounds like I need different anchors lol. No manufacturer name on it anywhere but in looking up various website install instructions for other shower panels they all state that the provided anchors are installed in tiled area but make no mention of stud support. I guess I am concerned that if inserted into stud, when the anchor spreads it has nowhere to go? or maybe biting into the wood will be enough?
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Unread 01-03-2011, 09:15 AM   #11
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Thank you Jay! I appreciate you keeping me together lol.
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Unread 01-03-2011, 09:16 AM   #12
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If installed into a stud you would not use the anchors provided. You want a wood screw/ lag bolt to install into wood.
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Unread 01-03-2011, 09:26 AM   #13
tiger65rick
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Poifect! Thank you! I think i would feel much better about that too
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Unread 01-03-2011, 09:30 AM   #14
tiger65rick
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best to use a stainless steel lag to avoid possible rusting? I will sillycone hole and screw head but just as a matter of course?
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Unread 01-03-2011, 09:41 AM   #15
Scott_V
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Middle pic in post #6 looks to me like a concrete anchor.

I'm not familiar with a "shower panel" as shown in pic 1 of post #6. Could you point us to a website?

Last edited by Scott_V; 01-03-2011 at 09:48 AM.
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