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Old 07-28-2018, 08:09 PM   #31
Davy
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I don't think you need to do it again. Like I mentioned, you don't want any pebbles sticking up. I would rub it down, vacuum it and then if you think it needs it, skim coat it with thinset.

Hopefully you got all your practicing over with. The top mud bed is more critical.
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Old 07-28-2018, 08:27 PM   #32
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Thanks Davy,
What if my top coat turns out similar to how this coat turned out? Should i be using a different mix than the mapei 4 to 1?
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:08 PM   #33
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I'm not a big fan of that mud but it will work. Many installers here use it. If it turns out too rough, you'll need to do the same thing, rub it down, vacuum and skim coat it with thinset.
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:53 PM   #34
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thank you Davy
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Old 07-29-2018, 01:41 PM   #35
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Best ready to buy deck mud mix?

Mapei sells a 4-1, quickcrete sells their Deck Mid mix, but they say this mix isnít appropriate for shower pans.

What ready to use shower pan deck mud do you guys use? I use Mapei 4-1 but it seemed a little too sandy for me when it dries
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Old 07-29-2018, 02:06 PM   #36
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Dyna-crete 710 our go to for bagged deck mud
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Old 07-29-2018, 05:28 PM   #37
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Mike, when building a traditional pan liner shower, you want the deck mud to be porous. You want it porous so any water that gets thru the tile and grout will go to the liner and flow to the weep holes in the drain. That's the reason for the pitch. When the mud mix is too rich (too much cement) it's too hard and dense and water doesn't flow thru it as easy. If it's too hard, water won't hardly flow thru it at all.

For years deck mud (dry pack, same thing) was made on the job site and was nearly always made 5 sand to 1 Portland. It's easy to work with, plenty porous and it's cheap. A lot of guys these days use sand mix (it's about 3 to 1), mixed dry and call it deck mud. It's not deck mud, it's just dry sand mix. You can use sand mix but you need to add sand to it. Or, you can buy all purpose sand and Portland and measure it out. That's the way I do it.
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Old 07-29-2018, 10:17 PM   #38
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Davy, can i use Quickrete Deck Mud? They say on their feedback that their deck mud isnt to be used as a slope though - thats what confusing me. You guys say use deck mud but they say use a sandmix.
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Old 07-29-2018, 10:31 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
You guys say use deck mud but they say use a sandmix.
Tomayto, tomahto, Mike. Deck mud is a mixture of sand and Portland cement. Deck mud is sand mix. Deck mud is Dry Pack. Deck mud is mortar.

All you need is something that contains four or five parts sharp sand and one part Portland cement. Matters not a whit how you arrive at it or in what sort of container it comes in or if it comes pre-mixed or separate.

All you care about is having sand and cement in appropriate proportions. Technically, the ceramic tile industry calls for a 4:1 mix for shower floors (ANSI Standard). I've never used anything but 5:1 and that's the most common mix for all the tile guys I've ever worked with. Just get close. Doesn't hafta be perfect, but you want something very close to a 5:1 mix.

Then you call it whatever you like, mix it with just a little water, and make your shower floor with it.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-29-2018, 11:21 PM   #40
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Do you buy a ready bagged one or mix it yourself? What would be a good ready to purchase bagged one?

By the way hereís how my shower looks today after following Davyís instructions and grinding it. What do you guys think?
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Old 07-30-2018, 12:20 PM   #41
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That's what CX is saying, it doesn't matter which one, just get it adjusted to about 5 to 1.

I haven't tried every bagged dry pack out there. But I don't like the ones I've tried. That's why I mix my own. I can make it 5 to 1, it's much easier to use and it's a lot cheaper. I guess I need to start my own bidness making mud, it'd sell like hot cakes.

Looking back at post 24, I hope you cleaned the cement off the lower section of the drain before bolting down the ring. Silicone also needs to be used there.

I don't like the wrinkles in the pan liner. It's best to lay out the pan on a flat surface for a day or two to let the pan relax a little. It will lay flatter as you work on it. You have the pan gathered up at the curb without pan corners. That needs to be fixed.

You also need to add a couple studs at the left end of the curb, possibly the right end too. I can't see it as well. You'll want something to nail your cement board to and possibly something to fold up a shower door.
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Old 08-19-2018, 07:54 PM   #42
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keep breaking hardibacker - impossible to cut in and around

Hey guys, any tips here? I'm struggling big time with hardibacker. I've broken like 3 boards trying to cut noches and holes and its driving me angry as heck. How do you guys cut this stuff?
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Old 08-19-2018, 08:05 PM   #43
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Yeah, itís like crumbly cardboard sometimes when trying to cut it. I used an angle grinder with a regular abrasive wheel. Lots of dust but ripped through it fine without breaking it. Was going to use the diamond wheel but was too lazy to change it.
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Old 08-19-2018, 08:06 PM   #44
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Dam Jeff you are fast. For holes I use my hole saws for anything else I use a grinder W/diamond blade very dusty but I get nice clean lines and no break out. Where are you putting this hardibacker?
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Old 08-19-2018, 08:11 PM   #45
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in a shower. I tried to use a diamond blade on my angle grinder but it looked like it was struggling to cut through the 1/2 inch stuff. should i get durock instead?
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