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Old 07-27-2018, 06:36 PM   #1
jkk9
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Improving corners when using membrane

I'm about to hang cbu on shower walls. The last time I did this I had a little bit of trouble keeping a 90 angle in the corners - the Kerdi rounded the corner some. Maybe the Kerdi shrunk some, maybe my inexperience contributed. In any case, I'm thinking about leaving a gap at the CBU corner that would allow me to tuck the membrane into the gap, thus allowing me to get the corner tiles as close as I wanted.

Thoughts?

I might just try Schluter in the corner ...
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Old 07-27-2018, 06:41 PM   #2
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If you're talking about inside corners, a small gap might help.

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Originally Posted by Jim
I might just try Schluter in the corner ...
Schluter what?
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Old 07-27-2018, 07:12 PM   #3
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Schluter what?
Schluter strip DILEX-EKE. Or one of the others they sell.
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Old 07-27-2018, 07:55 PM   #4
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I also was concerned about the rounding of the inside corners during my build. I put the kerdi-band in first. Folded the strip and ran a rather warm iron over the edge only to get it to hold the crease. Not enough to melt it or the fibers. Then after the band and mortar dried, I put the kerdi sheets up. There’s a bit of a space between the opposing sheets but still well more than the 2” required overlap of the sheet and band.
It was pretty much to sooth my OCD more than practicality, as there’s enough room with the mortar layer when thinsetting the tiles to compensate for any minor corner rounding that there would have been.
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Old 07-27-2018, 08:47 PM   #5
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If you can avoid having your overlaps in the corner then that should help. Having a couple layers plus the thinset under each layer right in the corner can cause problems.
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Old 07-27-2018, 08:56 PM   #6
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To get tight corners: I'll hang the Kerdi gently on the walls with just enough material pressed into the mortar so it hangs by itself. Then I use two drywall taping knives, with both of them jammed in the corner...then hold one knife firmly into the corner while the second smooths outwards. Continue this technique all the way up and down the height of the material. Then switch the positions of the knives and complete the adjacent wall.

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Old 07-28-2018, 08:38 AM   #7
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Since i have bare studs, another option is to hang plastic (6 mil?) first and then the CBU and skip the membrane. That is acceptable, correct?
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Old 07-28-2018, 08:52 AM   #8
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Yes you can, you would need to install a pan liner. Maybe you already have.

Instead of plastic behind the CBU, you could use a paint on membrane over the CBU. I'm talking about only on the walls with the pan liner on the floor. That's an option.
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:57 AM   #9
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Quote:
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Yes you can, you would need to install a pan liner. Maybe you already have
I'm using a polyacrylic shower base.
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Old 07-28-2018, 10:07 AM   #10
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And ... I assume I'can use plastic with a niche present. It's a prefab Kerdi niche. I could push the plastic into that stud bay before stapling the plastic to the studs.
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Old 07-28-2018, 10:11 AM   #11
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If you are slow or a DIY'er, some like the paint on membrane or sheet membranes on the face of the CBU rather than plastic behind it. The plastic is cheaper but the membrane on the face won't absorb your thinset so fast when tiling which buys you more adjustment time. That's something to think about. If you do tile directly to the CBU, wet it a little first.
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Old 07-28-2018, 10:16 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davy View Post
If you are slow or a DIY'er, some like the paint on membrane or sheet membranes on the face of the CBU rather than plastic behind it. The plastic is cheaper but the membrane on the face won't absorb your thinset so fast when tiling which buys you more adjustment time. That's something to think about. If you do tile directly to the CBU, wet it a little first.


I've done membrane before, when there was existing drywall. Trying to save money on this one with the plastic/cbu/tile combo. I will wet the cbu as always. I will use Kerdi fix to glue the plastic to the shower base lip.


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Old 07-28-2018, 10:30 AM   #13
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That's always an important area. When faced with tiling over a base like that, I like to use a flashing type material to stick to the lip and up the walls about 12 inches. Home Depot has some that has a foil front side with a peel and stick back side that works well. I like that it stays put. First I place blocking between the studs behind the base lip and stick the foil flashing to it. Then the plastic can drape down over the foil. I'd much rather have that than plastic alone.
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Old 07-28-2018, 10:54 AM   #14
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Quote:
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... the plastic can drape down over the foil
Assuming a 1/4” gap between bottom edge of cbu and base deck, how far above base should the foil and plastic end? Same 1/4”?
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Old 07-28-2018, 11:38 AM   #15
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Depends on the tub lip design. I would stick the foil on the base so the cement board covers it. With the foil in place, the plastic can end a couple inches higher flat against the foil. I trust the foil more than I do the plastic.
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