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Unread 12-19-2006, 10:36 AM   #1
Sminfiddle
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Question Rick's Master Bath & First Thread

So we've got a new house and I've got to finish bedrooms and one bathroom before we move.
Bath projects are: new 12" tile over a NuHeat radiant mat over existing 1" mosaic, and the same 12" onto a tub surround over a drop-in in an alcove with a window and new plumbing. With luck the plumber will finish the valve, bodyspray and shower spigot today.
I ordered from Tile-Experts enough Kerdi to waterproof up from the tub up to about 6 feet, one 5 meter roll. And a roll of Kerdi-Band to make the seams easier.
I have laid ceramic on floors but am a vertical-tile newbie, armed with the Kerdi Shower Book.
Two areas are concerning me at this point:
1) My wife wants the tile to go all the way to the ceiling. We tore out the wet wall all the way up, so I am OK with removing the rest of the painted, probably wallpapered drywall and rebuilding fresh. Gives me a chance to get the wall junction corners truly straight and maybe even get a block behind those studs - they have about a half inch between them now... So - question- if I don't have enough Kerdi membrane to reach the ceiling, what do I do, just mortar onto the drywall? Use modified for the high section and dryset for the Kerdi part?
Do I need to worry at all about moisture above the shower height and try to get the Kerdi up to that level? 5 meters -may- be enough for this 32" X 60" alcove, I've got the Kerdi Band so won't be overlapping sheets. The tub height is 20".

2) Moisture barrier over the NuHeat mat? Manufacturer doesn't mention installing one. Says to mortar it onto subfloor, and mortar tiles on top of it. I'd have ordered some Ditra if I'd thunk about it.

More questions will come up for sure, but I have these two burning ones first.

Thanks!
Rick
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Unread 12-19-2006, 10:47 AM   #2
bbcamp
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Hi, Rick!

1) Kerdi must go as high as the shower head. Can go farther if you want, though.

2) No need for moisture barrier on floor.


Does your tub have an up-turned flange on 3 sides, or a rim all the way around?
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Unread 12-19-2006, 10:54 AM   #3
Sminfiddle
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Tub has nailing flange on 3 sides

Tub has nailing flange on 3 sides. Integral apron on the room-side. Kohler Devonshire soaking tub, pretty common until recently.

So regular drywall can be the sole backing above the shower height? I'm installing 12" tiles so I don't think the Kerdi thickness difference will be an issue. But I'd like to know I'm using the right mortar for each zone, Kerdi and non-Kerdi.

Thanks for the reassurance on the heat mat. There's a local Kerdi distro but it's too long a drive for lunch hour, and as John says they're higher than ordering online.

Rick
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Unread 12-19-2006, 02:19 PM   #4
bbcamp
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You're correct: modified above the Kerdi, un-modified on the Kerdi. Some of the pros use Versabond, a lightly modified thinset, over Kerdi. Schluter's main objection is the increased drying time.
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Unread 12-21-2006, 04:13 PM   #5
Sminfiddle
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Grab Bar screws - they will pierce Kerdi @ install time?

I'm including 2x backing for two grab bars - one horizontal on the long wall, and one short vertical at the outside front edge.
Drywall will go over, Kerdi over the drywall, and then at some point the bars will get screwed into the backings.
When I get to that point, what's the way to ensure sealage when I'm putting holes in the Kerdi from attaching these bars?
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Unread 12-21-2006, 04:32 PM   #6
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Silicone sealant is good. Schluter also makes a tube sealant for the Kerdi - the name escapes me.
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Unread 12-21-2006, 06:28 PM   #7
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Hi Rick,

All good advice above.
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Unread 01-04-2007, 03:08 PM   #8
Sminfiddle
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Heating Mat Wires?

I mortared down the NuHeat mat and most of the floor tile this weekend. The firecrackers were going off outside as I laid the next-to-last row. KeraSet modified with KeraPly. The mat went over 1-in. mosaics left in place. I cut away a field of the 1-inchers around the toilet flange to remove the "rise" and make room to keep my 12x12 porcelain level and under the top elevation of the closet flange... the mosaic was meshed and installed over some vinyl sheet that I am seeing in the closets. Hope that won't be a problem.
I am reviewing the NuHeat instructions for wiring and it says DO NOT CUT EXCESS SUPPLY LEADS. CUTTING THE SUPPLY LEADS WILL VOID WARRANTY. Yes, all in Caps like that. I laid the mat with the wire corner close to the cabinet / wall where the thermostat will go. I will find something to do with the footage of wire because they sound pretty emphatic!

I have ordered some extra Kerdi so I can put it on the shower walls all the way up to the ceiling. I just couldn't decide on a "line" that made me comfortable ending the waterproofing. Somebody STOP ME before I tile and Kerdify the ceiling too...

Oh, and I love our new member of the household, a Felker TM-75 grabbed on the rebate deal from ConstructionComplete. The saw arrived before the tracking number did! Well, actually I chased down the FedEx truck in an alley after coming home to a Door Tag on the Friday before New Year's.

Had to lay the heat mat because two of the tiles under the toilet overlap it. The potty was on the "Must Do Before Moving" list and the shower is not.

We even made one of our goals, sorta - we had a cooked meal on Christmas Day. Cooked in that we were able to toast the bagels my wife brought in! My daughter ran to the old house (5 doors down) and back with the toaster - we will reenact this in years to come.
I achieved 90%+ coverage with my cream cheese.
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Unread 01-04-2007, 03:24 PM   #9
Sminfiddle
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Grout OK too

Oh, yeah, I went with SpectraLock epoxy grout for the completed portion of the floor. Followed the instructions from Nash on the SpectraLock thread. It was a cold night so delayed a little on the washes. No worries even though I forgot to add vinegar to the final wash.
I am trying to get my son to take some pichers (with his phone) so I can post them. Maybe soon.
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Unread 11-16-2007, 03:54 PM   #10
Sminfiddle
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Resuming the Project

Having fun. Want to post some pichers but need to smallify them down from hi-res first (right?).
I've covered up a window and converted it into a shampoo niche. I have a "side splash" unused from my fake marble vanity that will make the shelf.

Rick
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Unread 11-17-2007, 10:13 AM   #11
Sminfiddle
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Question Flange/Tile gap: Check my solution please

Two of my shower walls have the same "gap behind the tile" issue at the bottom as in Kevin's thread <http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=53679>.
I took some of my leftover 2" wide trimmage of Kerdi and pushed a 3" length of this strip up behind the gap to provide a backing for my Laticrete grout.
Before and after pichers attached. I would like to hear if this is a really bad idea or a decent invention.
Acrylic tub with 1" flange, screwed to studs, porcelain 12x12 on Kerdi on sheetrock. Unmodified Masterblend over and under Kerdi.
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Unread 11-17-2007, 10:16 AM   #12
Sminfiddle
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Flange/Tile gap: Check my solution please

After: Kerdi bunched and rolled behind tile. I intend for this to back up the Spectralock epoxy grout.
I will caulk the tub/tile line first to seal the wall-Kerdi to the tub.
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Unread 11-17-2007, 10:27 AM   #13
Sminfiddle
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Pic

Overall view. This is even more fun than I imagined when I determined to do it myself! I couldn't believe I could defy gravity and get these tiles to stick to vertical walls...
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Unread 11-17-2007, 02:43 PM   #14
Sminfiddle
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Question

Working on the wet wall today. Can anyone look at the flange gap question above and comment?

I can't tell if it's clever or foolish.

Thanks -
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Unread 11-18-2007, 08:19 AM   #15
Sminfiddle
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Flange/Tile gap: Check my solution please

Mini-bump for the question above: rolled/bunched Kerdi to fill gap behind bottom edge of tile on tub flange - Trouble ahead or good to go?
I'll be using Spectralock grout.

Thanks,
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