Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 12-02-2006, 11:43 PM   #1
figaro
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: des moines ia
Posts: 360
Laying out c'top tile

I'm installing 4x4 ceramic tile on a laundry room countertop. It is an "L" shape with the long leg being about 9 ft. long measuring along the front edge, and the left leg being only about 3 inches long. The 3 inch long leg butts up to the washer/dryer.
I thought it would look nice if I put the 4x4 bullnose on top of the c'top at the front edge and then butt my cut face pieces up underneath of them. But I can't figure out how to do it without (A) not having any face tile on edge that butts up against the washer and dryer because I would have to cut all the tile that is on top and butts up to the W/D which would mean cutting off the bull nose and I think if I cut the other end of the tile opposite the bull nose they won't look good because they're slightly rounded and (B) I would have to start from the "L" corner with a full tile and work across past the sink and wouldn't be able to center the tile on the sink which it seems like it should be.(Is this making any sense?)
OR
I could cut and put the bullnose on the face of the c'top bringing the top bull nose edge up even with the surface of the tiles on top. I would then have the grout joint on top of the c'top as opposed to on the face. I could then center the tile on the sink and also put bullnose on the edge up against the W/D. (Are you following any of this?)
Is there a right way to do this?
Also, 1/4" or 1/2" denshield on top of 3/4" ply?
Thanks
Figaro
figaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 12-03-2006, 12:10 AM   #2
Shaughnn
Trowel Monkey
 
Shaughnn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Kent, Washin'ton
Posts: 11,467
Welcome Figaro,
Start from the corner and work outward. It doesn't sound like you've picked up an "down angles" for your bullnose. "Downangles" are tiles which have bullnosing on two consecutive sides, making a bullnosed corner. The apron piece that lays under the downangle can be cut from a bullnose tile. Don't forget that the next piece which wraps around the corner from that bullnosed apron will have to have a tile's thickness cut from it to line up with the joints on the top of the counter.
Best of luck,
Shaughnn
Shaughnn is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-03-2006, 12:26 AM   #3
figaro
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: des moines ia
Posts: 360
Sorry, I know my post was hard to follow.
So..
If I'm understanding you correctly, you are saying to use my bullnose pieces on TOP of the countertop instead of the face. And yes I do know what a down angle is, and I assume your talking about using that where the outside corner is where the W/D are? So I would have to cut that down angle along with all the others on top of the c'top and butting up to the W/D? And not worry about the tiles being symetrically spaced on each side of the sink?

Also, 1/4" or 1/2" denshield on top of 3/4" ply

Thanks
figaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-03-2006, 12:34 AM   #4
Shaughnn
Trowel Monkey
 
Shaughnn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Kent, Washin'ton
Posts: 11,467
Correct on most counts, Figaro. You can try to balance the cuts to either side of the sink by re-positioning the sink hole if you are able but it's a rare occasion that an "L-shaped" counter looks good with the intersection all cut up. I woudn't use Denshield on a counter top at all. If anything, use either Wonderboard or Hardibacker. Both have high compression strength and are non-reactive to moisture. Whether you use 1/4" or 1/2" makes little differance as neither contributes to the strength of the counter top. They only serve to adjust the height of the finished tile.
Shaughnn
Shaughnn is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-03-2006, 12:51 AM   #5
figaro
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: des moines ia
Posts: 360
OOPS, too late on the denshield, layed 1/4" already. I used to always use durock but used denshield on my last BIG floor tile job (1/2") and seemed to turn out alright. I thought denshield was supposed to be water proof (?) or something??
Can't move the sink, so I guess my grout lines will be different on each side of it. Maybe I'm hung up on something there that I shouldn't be worrying about. If I was putting the bullnose on the FACE of the c'top I could make that work out, but you say putting it on top is correct/OK/best eh?

Thanks again
Figaro
figaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-03-2006, 01:07 AM   #6
Shaughnn
Trowel Monkey
 
Shaughnn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Kent, Washin'ton
Posts: 11,467
Whoa! Figaro,
I know that Densshield passed the Robinson test but I still would never use it on a floor. It's gypsum board with a vinyl coating, for the love of Pete and his hang-toothed camel. Would you have any faith in 1/4" sheetrock laid on your floor?
I've had no problems with Densshield behind a properly waterproofed mud float but I honestly think that this product is just Georgia-Pacific's way of slicing off a bit of the growing tile market without having to expand the scope of their industry. "Hmm, what do we have laying around here that we can spray a Rhino-coating on and sell in place of the green-board that's being disqualified for wet locations until the industry can collect enough material to disqualify this new stuff as well???? It's a "make do" product rather than a "make better" product and I don't think I could ever say anything nice about that business model.
Shaughnn
Shaughnn is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-03-2006, 01:39 AM   #7
figaro
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: des moines ia
Posts: 360
OK... Before I used denshield (1/2") on my last floor project, I had always used cement board. I read all kinds of stuff on this site re: denshield vs cement board. It seemed that opinions were split (you were obviously on the "denshield is crap" side). Then I asked my local suppliers what they sold more of and they said 50-50. Then I observed what I saw out in the field and would have to say about 50/50. So then it came down to this: I asked myself "Do I want to carry 40 sheets of denshield up those stairs, or do I want to carry 40 sheets of cement board".
I can certainly see your reasoning and that's kind of the way i felt about it too. But I also wondered if I was missing something and making things harder than I needed too (not getting any younger you know). So many other people were using it, I thought I'd try it. Didn't have any problems (yet) so thought I would try it again. Just finished a high end Master bath partial remodel where we had to add about 40 sq. ft. to the existing tile, that's what they used. So I don't know... I take it you prefer cement board?

Figaro
figaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-03-2006, 07:29 AM   #8
Shaughnn
Trowel Monkey
 
Shaughnn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Kent, Washin'ton
Posts: 11,467
I'm sorry about coming across like that Figaro. It's certainly not fair to you. Like I said, I don't mind the stuff on walls, if I'm going to be floating over them, but I think it's an inferior product that gets past the "it's just greenboard" challenge on a technicallity.

Shaughnn
Shaughnn is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:45 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC