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Unread 11-14-2020, 10:14 PM   #1
JJG1170
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Shower/Tub remodel... what tub to buy??

All,
I was hoping for some input on bathtubs before I start remodeling my bathroom. I need to replace my current cast iron tub. There is a lot of information on ACRYLIC versus CASTIRON versus STEEL COATED ENAMEL with pros and cons. I do not like the feel of the acrylic tubs, seems cheap and plastic like but the thought of installing a 300 lb cast iron seems daunting. Any thoughts on the steel tubs? Also what brands, I see bootz at Home Depot and Americast are carried.
Thanks
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Unread 11-15-2020, 07:45 AM   #2
Davy
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I always recommend cast iron tubs to my customers. Sure, they are heavy but they are tougher. The steel and acrylic tubs chip easier than cast iron. A steel tub will rust out in 10-15 years, at least both of mine did that came with my house. If you're going to install a 50 year tile job, you want the tub to last that long.
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Unread 11-15-2020, 07:52 AM   #3
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Steel is more susceptible to chipping damage than cast iron by far. Whether it’s during construction (which can be avoided almost entirely by protecting the tub from tile and tool drops) or something later. A fair percentage of steel tubs that I replace with cast iron have unsightly chips in them.

I’d go for a cast iron tub in almost every situation. For that part of the install, enlist the help of 2-3 strong peeps and talk through how you’re going to move it.

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Unread 11-16-2020, 09:15 PM   #4
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Thanks for input. This forum is great for newbies.
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Unread 11-16-2020, 11:24 PM   #5
Tool Guy - Kg
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It’s great for pros, as well.

If you get a cast iron tub (like a Kohler Villager from Home Deep-Owe for $399), I’d advise strapping it to a dolly while still in the crate with the drain hole side down at the floor. A majority of tubs need to be tilted down from a standing to laying position...and keeping it in the crate on the dolly makes it easier to grab and less awkward to maneuver. And if the tub spout pipe is already plumbed in and sticking out into the alcove, it’s helpful to have the drain side already down on the floor where you can stand the tub against the “wet wall” and tilt it back away from that plumbing wall. That method avoids clunking into the tub spout pipe.

Last bit of advice is to keep the tub in the crate until the minute you’re ready to tilt the tub down, as the crate allows the tub to stand unsupported.

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Unread 03-10-2021, 09:36 PM   #6
JJG1170
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I am looking at the American Standard Americast Cambridge or the BOOTZ Maui tub for my replacement. Those have deeper soaking depths. The Kohler cast iron is only about 9” soaking depth. Does anyone have any experience with the two I mentioned above thank you!
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Unread 03-10-2021, 09:53 PM   #7
Tool Guy - Kg
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If you like deeper tubs, go for it. But don't forget that you gotta step over that taller wall every time you get in. Some folks get tired of that.
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Unread 03-12-2021, 07:39 PM   #8
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Unmodified or Modified Thinset ??

Hello all..
I am starting a bathtub shower combo remodel soon on a tight budget I am going to be using goboard as my backer board with 3 x 12 ceramic subway tile is unmodified or modified thinset preferred once I start tiling ?
Thank you!
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Unread 03-12-2021, 07:52 PM   #9
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Jim, you'll wanna read and follow the instructions for the materials you intend to use. I believe the Go Board allows either modified or un-modified thinset mortar, but I been wrong before.

You'll find modified mortar easier to work with in general unless you purchase a particularly good un-modified mortar. In any case, while you don't need any high-priced mortar, nor any mortar meeting any standard higher than ANSI A118.4, bonding mortar is not a place to try to save pennies in your project. You can get what you need for under $20 a bag.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-21-2021, 10:03 PM   #10
JJG1170
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Thank you for response. Yes I definitely want to pick the right materials for install; my cost savings I was looking at was settling for a big box bathtub like the bootz and subway tile from big box too.I was looking at schluter all set for my thin set.. Thoughts ?
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Unread 03-22-2021, 08:03 AM   #11
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If you're talking about Schluter's ALL-SET thinset mortar I would suggest that mortar is over priced and you can get an equivalent mortar for far less as I mentioned in post #9.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-22-2021, 11:04 AM   #12
KarenA01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonto
If you get a cast iron tub (like a Kohler Villager from Home Deep-Owe for $399)
I too dislike acrylic tubs, so I am considering the Villager for my bathroom to replace a pink cast iron tub from the 1950's (it's in good shape... but it's pink - and too big by code for the space - need 30"wide).

The thing that bothers me about the Villager is the Height (14") and the water depth (IIRC ~ 8"). The current tub is 16" and can hold more water.

The only other 30" cast iron Kohler alcove Tub (Bellwether) is the same height... and AFAIK Kohler is the only one that makes cast iron alcove tubs anymore.

- Karen
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Unread 03-22-2021, 11:17 AM   #13
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Code says your bathtub is too big?
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Unread 03-22-2021, 11:25 AM   #14
KarenA01
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Distance from front of toilet to tub is 19" with current 32" wide tub...minimum required is 21" so can only have 30" wide tub.

The existing toilet is a Kohler Cimarron round bowl., one of the smallest 2 piece "regular" toilets they make...

I was planning to get the updated version that had the same dimensions... but they just discontinued all the round bowl versions of it (as Well as the 1.6 Gallon tanks) so will need to use something else...

Anyway this is not the place to go into the specifics on my bathroom! I just wanted to mention the issue with the Villager for those who care about water depth and want cast iron.


-Karen
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Unread 03-22-2021, 12:52 PM   #15
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Don't know if it would work in your space, Karen, but a wall hung toilet would save 6 or 7 inches in front of the toilet.
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