Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 10-15-2012, 11:50 PM   #1
crayola110
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 10
Perimeter expansion gap for Porcelain

Hi guys, I just laid 75% of my porcelain tile floor.

My edge cuts are all over the place. I left a perimeter expansion gap around the floor that I layed. They average about a 1/4 inch gap between the cut tile and the wall. But a few of the cuts were bigger almost "1/2 inch gap" or smaller "a little under 1/4 inch".

I thought my Tile molding (made of a glass/stone mosaic) would cover the expansion gap, but I think the tile is only about a 1/4 inch thick so it will end up showing the gap on some of the 1/2 inch expansion gaps...

Anyone have suggestions to cover these gaps or how to deal with this? Should I just shove grout in them or would caulking it be better? The colored caulk from home depot is SO expensive. $7.50 a tube to match the grout color!

And for the adhering the mosaic Tile Molding (I'm using 4 layer of the thing mosaic glass/stone tile for the tile skirting around the perimeter) to the wall should I use Mortar or could I just go with a strong adhesive like PL? or would using a Glass thinset be better?

Thanks!
__________________
bee
crayola110 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 10-16-2012, 02:09 AM   #2
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 11,847
How many of the gaps are so wide that they won't be covered by the tile on the wall? Would it be possible to remove and replace those tiles with 1/4" expansion?

Use a good quality modified thinset for adhering the tile to walls.
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-16-2012, 06:23 AM   #3
Houston Remodeler
Pondering retirement daily

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Houston Remodeler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 28,223
I'd replace the floor tiles that are too short. That will make hanging the base a lot easier.

What Kevin said, use WHITE thinset
__________________
Paul1

For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling


http://CabotAndRowe.com
Houston Remodeler is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-16-2012, 03:51 PM   #4
crayola110
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 10
Thanks guys.

So The WHITE thinset would be used on the mosaic glass?

So yeah, I guess that is not what I wanted to hear about lifting tiles. I didn't want the extra work hahaha. I guess there are only about 4 tiles that I left too big a gap.


Has anyone ever used glass mosaic tiles for a baseboard/border/tile skirting? I was interested in pictures but couldn't find any
__________________
bee

Last edited by crayola110; 10-16-2012 at 03:52 PM. Reason: PS anyone know how to get email reminders when someone has responded to your post?
crayola110 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-16-2012, 08:44 PM   #5
Tool Guy - Kg
Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
 
Tool Guy - Kg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 22,647
Mosaics on base could look really neat. But that's a lot of tough-to-clean grout lines around the perimeter of a room that traditionally sees dirty mop water sloshed up against them. I don't like using a mop at all on tile because it transfers dirt from the face of the tile to the grout lines. If you can avoid mops, the grout lines stand a chance of remaining relatively clean.

Have you thought at all about topping the mosaic base with some sort of accent wood trim? Might make it look even better.

__________________
Tonto Goldstein... but my friends call me Bubba

Help an awesome summer camp!
Tool Guy - Kg is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-19-2012, 07:13 PM   #6
crayola110
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 10
Hey that's a good idea about a wood transition peice. I think I will use one above AND below which would also cover the expansion gap!!

I'm thinking you're right about the dirty mop and cleaning. What if I use a metal transition peice both above and below the mosaic.

Also could I use a dark grout? like maybe even gray? wonder how that would look?

So it will be wood/4layers mosaic tile/wood what do you think of that?

If anyone has pictures of mosaic tile for a border that would be great!

Anyways this was the mosaic i was using 4 tiles thich which would make it about 3 1/2 in skirting.

Or do you all think I should just use regular tile for the skirting?

Also do you typically use caulking all the way around where the skirting covers your tile? Because there will be that slight gap there as well. I feel like silicone caulk attracts a lot of dust and dirt. What else could i use? or should I just get really dark colored silicone?
Attached Images
 
__________________
bee
crayola110 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-19-2012, 09:37 PM   #7
Celtstone Surfaces
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Kentucky/Ohio
Posts: 65
Laticrete is giving a 10lb glass thinset sample free.
Check the forums for details.
__________________
Wes
Celtstone Surfaces is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-19-2012, 10:26 PM   #8
crayola110
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 10
Dangit she said that promotion ended....

BTW what type of caulk do you use for the perimeter expansion gap. i mean for the part not seen. I'm guessing I could just use that standard Alex's int/ext caulking. Then for the part that is seen i should get a colored sanded caulk that matches the tile? is that correct?

I'm just confused as to how much of this caulking is seen by the eye. For instance in this picture i attached as an example it looks like the tile baseboard is just grouted, but am I supposed to use caulking for where the tile floor meets the baseboard?
__________________
bee

Last edited by crayola110; 10-19-2012 at 10:46 PM.
crayola110 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-20-2012, 10:55 AM   #9
Houston Remodeler
Pondering retirement daily

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Houston Remodeler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 28,223
Bee,

Our friends at ColorRite have matching caulk in 140 colors, in matte, shiny, sanded and unsanded. Tell them we said hello.
__________________
Paul1

For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling


http://CabotAndRowe.com
Houston Remodeler is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-22-2012, 06:10 PM   #10
crayola110
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 10
Thanks will check that out..

Another noobie question:
can I use thinset mortar on the wall for a tile baseboard?

I had some left over FlexBond mortar from Custom building products. I am only doing it for part of the baseboard where I am going to use some left over porcelain tile.
__________________
bee
crayola110 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-22-2012, 07:36 PM   #11
Houston Remodeler
Pondering retirement daily

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Houston Remodeler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 28,223
Yes as long as any paint isn't high gloss. If any doubt, scuff the paint with sand paper.
__________________
Paul1

For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling


http://CabotAndRowe.com
Houston Remodeler is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-25-2012, 02:04 PM   #12
crayola110
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 10
About to Grout, any advice for first timer?

I'm about to grout my floor. It's a long hallway and bathroom about 65 sq ft. How much do you recommend I do at a time? I understand I have to push grout in then wait a while to clean

Could I just do the whole thing then immediately start to clean? What are the timeframes for newbies? Should I do it in sections?

Thanks
__________________
bee
crayola110 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-25-2012, 02:07 PM   #13
bbcamp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
Grout will start to cure pretty quickly, so don't spread more than you can clean in 20 minutes. Start small, 10 square feet or so. Plan your start and stopping points where there is a visual break in the tile work, such as a doorway or some such. Get some help, you don't want to be down on your hands and knees then get up to fetch some clean water.
bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-25-2012, 02:48 PM   #14
airscapes
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 197
Bee, just did a backsplash the other day, first tile job in a long time and first this large. First off read the instructions on the grout a couple of time and make sure you understand them. Go online and find your grout an read the instructions there.. lot simpler than reading the heavy bag with poor wrinkled printing. They give you the amount of water to use for the complete bag, but if you do it in steps you don't want to mix the full bag or it will be hard in the bucket before it gets on the floor.

So, read the instruction then convert the amount of water to ounces and divide that by the number of lbs of grout in the bag. That will give you how much water per pound. Dry mix the grout, I used a clean kitty litter bucket with lid.
Then measure out a couple of pounds. Add the water to a clean bucket (dollar store sells great little black buckets get a half dozen and you won't have to clean them out) Then a add the grout and mix with a grout mixer on an electric drill running very slow. you should be able to see the mixer while it turns. Mix for however much time the bag says. Let it slake (stand untouched) for the amount of time the bag says and then mix again for the time listed. Use a timer of you smart phone to time each operation.
With the backspalsh (4x4 tiles so lots of grout) l mixed 3lbs at a time
Don't get impatient and start sponging, wait the time it tells you to wait in the instruction.
Good luck!
__________________
Doug
airscapes is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-25-2012, 03:45 PM   #15
Houston Remodeler
Pondering retirement daily

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Houston Remodeler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 28,223
Bee,

Lucky for you someone too the time to write a Grouting Tutorial which is located in our Lye Bury Inn Decks.
__________________
Paul1

For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling


http://CabotAndRowe.com
Houston Remodeler is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Perimeter Expansion Gap Caulking? Shinshi Tile Forum/Advice Board 4 05-10-2010 08:10 AM
Plywood expansion gap/Porcelain tile ? Clay Tile Forum/Advice Board 13 08-21-2007 07:13 PM
Drywall mud okay for perimeter expansion joint? Newbie2shoes Tile Forum/Advice Board 2 09-02-2006 12:43 PM
Minimum gap around perimeter of room? MaryAnnKacz Tile Forum/Advice Board 4 06-26-2006 10:27 PM
Expansion Joint at perimeter...Caulk? Neverending Tile Forum/Advice Board 3 07-26-2004 06:40 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:44 AM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC