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Unread 04-18-2021, 07:45 PM   #91
cx
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Eric, I think it's a good idea regardless how long it will be 'till you put anything on the mortar bed. The longer it's covered, the better.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-19-2021, 09:35 PM   #92
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Thanks CX. Makes sense and I guess the kerdi acts as a cover itself when it goes on.


Got the shower pan floated. Surprisingly was one of the harder things I've had to do. I also thought the easiest part would be screeding, which gave me the most trouble. All in all it took me a bit longer than I would have liked but I mixed each bucket as I went and didn't feel it had dried. There also some small dimples but I think thinset will fill those in without issue.

What I am trying to figure out now is the best way to Kerdi my pan and curb. Any suggestions?
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Unread 04-20-2021, 09:10 AM   #93
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I would kerdi the curb first, down just to the shower floor and out onto the bathroom floor a bit. I'd then cut a single piece to fit the shower floor and install that. I'd then use KerdiBand and pre-made corners to seal the wall/floor junction all around. But you can do it in any order that seems to fit your style best.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-20-2021, 10:23 AM   #94
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1. I think your suggestion will help with where the curb turns. But I think I'll need to "miter" the kerdi to match the curb then I can use upsidedown corner pieces on the in and outside of that curb corner. No?



2. I guess I need to install the ditra on the floor first that way I can over lap the Kerdi...?
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Unread 04-20-2021, 11:29 AM   #95
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1. Yes, or fold your own from KerdiBand.

2. You can, but then you have to deal with working over the Ditra. I think I would not do the Ditra until the shower was completed and I was ready to tile the bathroom floor.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-21-2021, 07:35 AM   #96
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So stupid me(maybe) I am having the window replaced. Probably would have been better to have done the shower pan floated after the window install. However, I was told 8-10 weeks for the window because of covid-19 delays so I couldn't wait on the other stuff; it's come in early. Is tomorrow too soon after making the pan (on Monday) to have folks walking on it?

My plan is to protect it with 1 in foam padding with
3/4 plywood ontop of that. I'd leave the poly that's currently over it too.
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Unread 04-21-2021, 07:45 AM   #97
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That should be adequate protection if your window contractors are not completely Neanderthal. They'll manage to damage the curb, but that should be repairable.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-27-2021, 07:08 AM   #98
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Pan and curb survived the window install unharmed!

1. I do have to make some repairs to the pan though due to install issues. I've got a low spot that's not too deep and a spot along the curb where I don't think I packed it enough. These spots I believe are too deep for thinset. My research tells me I can do a slurry of thinset and more drypack or purchase a patching compound. Is there a preferred method?

2. The window was quite what I expected. So had to rework my water proofing plan. Please the the attached pictures. I'm think build up the frame, kerdi board, then kerdi membrane with tile on top. Kerdifix membrane to window and 100% silicone on tile. Oh and kerdiboard sloped to drain. Thoughts?

Window is in the back half of the shower so amount of water shouldn't be too bad.
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Unread 04-27-2021, 09:45 PM   #99
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How hard will it be to bust out the mud bed after nearly 2 weeks? Keep in mind I have a kerdi drain bonded to it. The bed feels quite solid but there are a lot more chipped out spots than I originally thought so I'm considering a redo.
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Unread 04-28-2021, 07:57 AM   #100
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One of the advantages of a mud bed is that's it is really easy to remove. Shouldn't take much time at all.
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Unread 04-29-2021, 07:07 AM   #101
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Thanks Dan, that's what I've heard. My biggest concern though is around the Kerdi drain. Maybe I can carefully chip out around it.

Another option I was thinking was thick tile mortar. It appears that stuff can be spread up to 1/2 thick. I am wondering if it'd be better to try that first since most of the pan is solid.
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Unread 04-29-2021, 07:19 AM   #102
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Eric, not sure what "thick tile mortar" you're considering, and mortar technically isn't supposed to be used for that purpose, but it frequently is.

Since you are covering your mud bed with membrane patching the low spots will be fine, but what you don't want to do is use more mud. Thinset mortar will work since it will bond the mud. What you will probably find is that the mortar will shrink as it cures so you might need to make second pass with it.
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Unread 04-29-2021, 08:21 AM   #103
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https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...t=96240&page=2

In his post cx mentions "medium bed mortars" and I thought I remember him mentioning in one thread that medium bed mortars don't technically exist.

https://www.mapei.com/us/en-us/produ...e-stone-mortar

This i what I get when I google medium bed mortar. Interestingly though the technical data sheet doesn't appear to mention max thickness, or I missed it. Haven't put in a call to mapei yet.

Probably spend less time and money just tearing it out. But, if it's not already obvious, I'm very concerned about messing up the drain and plumbing...the nightmare that would be....
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Unread 04-29-2021, 08:38 AM   #104
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Because of the drain I too would be hesitant to remove the bed. The mortar will work, just may need to re-fill if it shrinks.
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Unread 04-29-2021, 12:17 PM   #105
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Eric,

I'd try to find some Laticrete Multimax Lite mortar. It's an LHT mortar that is very creamy and easy to work. It works especially well under membranes and it does state build-up to 3/4" thick without shrinkage. It is expensive at ~$40 a bag, but I just used it to set some Wedi subliner dry membrane and it was awesome.
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