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Unread 05-17-2009, 08:50 PM   #1
flipr
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Phil's Kitchen Floor Project

Been lurking here for last couple weeks, think I am ready to go on my kitchen floor. I appreciate all the help and suggestions I've read here already.

Here is what I'm planning, just wondering if my thinking is correct, might have under-ordered the adult beverages, having too much on hand usually isn't a bad thing, but not sure yet.

Subfloor = 3 year old cement slab

Removing sheet vinyl before tile install

Tile 13" x 13" porcelain tile with raised-grid reverse side

thinset = grey un-modified portland based from Lowes

putting down Ditra first

Planning on using 1/4" x 3/16" v notch to adhere the ditra to the subfloor

using a 1/4" x 3/8" sq notch for installing tile over ditra

Have my chalk line, wet saw, and my wife is going out of town for the week.
Have a case of beer on ice, what am I forgetting?

Will there be a need to back-butter tiles, or just press in place to make sure I've got a good mortar coverage?

Thanks in advance.

Phil
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Unread 05-17-2009, 08:53 PM   #2
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Phil, welcome to the forum. We'll have some help your way shortly.
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Unread 05-17-2009, 09:06 PM   #3
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Hi Phil

How clean is the slab from the sheet vinyl removal? Does it absorb water if you wet it? Specifically, which unmodified mortar did you get for the Ditra installation? What are you using to embed the Ditra into the thinset?
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Unread 05-17-2009, 09:39 PM   #4
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I assume the vinyl is also ~3 years old as well.. so no asbestos worries?

Were you planning on pulling that up? or trying to scuff it up and thinset ditra over it?

If the prior, be prepared to get some scrappers and blades as I'm pretty sure that you will have sticky mess underneath the vinyl. I personally am opposed to the

I have taken up a few vinyl floors to put down ceramic tile and found cutting out the vinyl with a utility knife, pulling it up and then pouring some hot water over the glue and adding some good 'ole elbow grease worked well. Unfortunately, if the vinyl is relatively new, the glue may not have had the effects of time and still may be a little sticky...
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Unread 05-18-2009, 02:35 AM   #5
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you may need to rent a scarifier to clean up the floor. Homer has them in some areas.
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Unread 05-18-2009, 05:03 AM   #6
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Thanks all

Appreciate the help so far, vinyl appears to be perimeter glued, we have some bubbling, thats why we decided to take it up and replace it. Bought a heavy duty floor scraper to clean off the glue. Good suggestion about a scarifier, homer does rent in our area. Will try hot water on any residue that sticks around. Elbow grease still available, but quantities are limited in my area.

Not sure if the slab soaks water, will have to test that. Contractor went cheapest route on most all ways when building the house, and is now out of business.

Tonto, worked in Oak Creek for several years, corner of Rawson and Howell. family still in the area, but Nashville has no snow!

Mortar is Laticrete grey thinset powder, says okay to put down over concrete.
Mortar Type: Dry-Thinset Mortar
Package Type: Bag
Color / Finish: Grey
Product Type: Powder
Indoor / Outdoor: Indoor
Use Over Exterior Grade Plywood: No
Use Over Concrete: Yes
Use Over Cement Backer Boards: Yes
Requires Additional Component: Water
Warranty: Full 1 Year
Color Family: Grays
$5.18/50# bag

Was planning on using this both below ditra, and on top of the ditra.
Schluter site talks about using un-modified thinset, so I thought they wanted thinset without any additives.

As for setting the ditra, don't have a lineolum roller (Dad had one, shoulda kept it! HA, move that 4 times, in 20 years...waiting for the right job). Was gonna use the grout float to slap it in place.

Vinyl is being cut, quarter round removed. Will not remove vinyl from under the cabinets, not removing those, but will tile under stove and refrigerator. Will reinstall quarter round moldings when tile is complete.

Thanks again for the comments and help.
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Unread 05-18-2009, 07:43 AM   #7
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Related Layout question

One thing I haven't seen much here is discussion on layout. My kitchen is 11' x 25', running North/South.

At the north end, I've got french doors going out to deck. close by, on the east wall, is 6' open doorway into great room.

On the south, I've got a 4' doorframe going into dining room.

I'm thinking visually, my layout needs to start properly on the east wall, going into the great room, since that is my biggest doorway, and most traveled footpath.

It would be easier starting north/south, but I'm thinking the more
'visuallly pleasing' effect will be keying on the great room/kitchen entry.

Thoughts?

Thanks again.
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Unread 05-19-2009, 04:56 AM   #8
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bump, not sure I have the right thinset?

after yesterdays questions, is this the right thinset?

Thanks much
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Unread 05-19-2009, 05:00 AM   #9
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At $5-ish a bag, you got the low-end thinset. I wouldn't use it.
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Unread 05-19-2009, 07:44 AM   #10
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bbcamp > At $5-ish a bag, you got the low-end thinset. I wouldn't use it.

Thanks Bob, I have no problem with the cost, reading the Schluter Ditra material, everything they specify says un-modified thinset..... so I bought the only product that was un-modified. To me, un-modified meant without additives. That isn't what Schulter means?

So what should be used?
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Unread 05-19-2009, 07:51 AM   #11
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Like a lot of things, thinset comes in good-better-best grades. $5 a bag thinset meets the minimum standards for un-modified thinset, but just barely. Ditra and porcelain tile needs more Portland cement in the mix than the cheap thinsets provide. Look for Mapei's Kerabond, Laticrete's Megabond or Bostic's Ditraset, or an un-modified thinset that sells in the $15 a bag range.
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Unread 05-19-2009, 08:01 AM   #12
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Thanks Bob

Great Bob, I appreciate it. Will go shopping again.

I see you are in East TN, is that the Knoxville area? I've got a building lot in Blount county that I (someday) plan to build on.
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Unread 05-19-2009, 09:04 AM   #13
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Kingston, about 40 miles west of Knoxville.
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Unread 05-19-2009, 10:48 PM   #14
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layout

Full tiles on the diagonal north wall and east wall.
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Unread 05-20-2009, 08:27 AM   #15
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Using bullnose tile on the floor???

I searched here, didn't see any discussion on this.

Floor tile install, is using bullnose acceptable on the floor as a transition to the adjacent carpet? Or can bullnose be used on the perimeter creating a border? I'm guessing a downside on the perimeter might be dust and dirt collection

Or does that end up looking cheesy in the end?

3 x 13 bullnose finished the door area very nicely, lining up the door frame for full use tiles after that.

Eventually the carpet will also be replaced, but not in this budget year.

Thanks
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