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Unread 08-01-2019, 06:36 PM   #151
Davy
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I wouldn't widen the joints, I would leave them as is. Smooth/tool the joints with a wet sponge.
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Unread 08-04-2019, 05:19 PM   #152
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If I'm using Fusion Pro with grout release on small areas at a time, do I need to re-apply the grout release on the overlap between the area that's already grouted and the area I'm about to grout?
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Unread 08-18-2019, 08:46 PM   #153
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I'm getting a lot of spots where the grout collapses in where the grout joints cross. Looks like a sinkhole. Happens both on walls and on the floor. I might be sponging some of those spots too much but others look like a bubble collapsed. I do try to make sure those spots are filled. Am I missing something?
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Unread 08-18-2019, 11:43 PM   #154
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When you're grouting the joints, are you grouting from different directions (i.e. top left to bottom right, top right to bottom left, and vice versa)? That helps to pack the joints fully, especially if there's lippage.
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Unread 08-19-2019, 07:00 AM   #155
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Does that just mean it's under-filled? I tried to do at least 2 directions and really stuff the intersections but maybe I'm not doing as good a job as I think. The lippage is minimal. Do I need to cut out the bad spots and refill or just apply more over the top?
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Unread 08-19-2019, 08:44 AM   #156
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If it's already dried, you'll need to remove the grout in the problem area and re-grout.

Try letting it set a little longer before starting the clean up.
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Unread 08-19-2019, 09:59 AM   #157
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toilet flange attachment to floor

The opening for the sewer drain pipe in the floor is cut unevenly so if I were to drive screws to hold down the flange into it, they would be very close to the edge of the hole. I could sandwiching the floor between the flange and some 2x pieces with longer screws but is there a better way? Anyone make a circular metal flange that you can use on the underside and put long skinny bolts through? I've got access from below in the basement. The pipe is extra large cast iron and the flange will be leaded on but I'd rather it was fixed to the floor.
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Unread 08-19-2019, 10:12 AM   #158
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I am having a hard time understanding what you are describing. Can you post a picture??

The toilet doesn't really get bolted to the floor by the closet flange. It only holds it to the drain pipe. Any bracing under the floor that you can attach the flange to will suffice.
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Unread 08-19-2019, 11:03 AM   #159
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Sorry, not sure this helps. I can't get at it from above right now.
Name:  DSC_0393.JPG
Views: 91
Size:  121.0 KB

Maybe I'm confused. The toilet gets bolted to the flange. The flange is attached to the pipe. If I rock the toilet, doesn't that abuse the flange and the pipe joints? If I attach the flange to the floor as well, then the toilet is effectively attached to the floor so everything is solid. I'll silicone under the toilet to keep it from rocking too. The sewer pipe is real solid but it's old and would be very difficult to repair.
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Unread 08-19-2019, 01:16 PM   #160
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You've got it correct, Paul, the flange is connected to the floor and the toilet is, more or less, held in place by it's connection to the flange. You do want to keep the flange still by whatever means necessary.
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Unread 08-19-2019, 01:29 PM   #161
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correct, sorry if i confused you.

you can put more blocking under there to give you something to screw the closet flange on, but it really doesnt look like you need it.

what toilet do you have? what closet flange?

some toilets actually do get bolted to the floor....but they are more European designs or full skirted.
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Unread 08-19-2019, 01:55 PM   #162
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The flange is a heavy duty cast iron one that's going to be attached to the pipe with poured lead (or that's the plan anyway). The toilet is just a regular one that bolts to the flange. If the flange rocks a little on the tile (before being fixed to the pipe), do I need to put something under it like some kind of gasket or spacer or a bead of silicone?
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Unread 08-19-2019, 02:42 PM   #163
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the flange should be resting on top of the finished flooring. You typically secure the flange to the flooring through the tile/subfloor/slab.

I don't understand why you can't do that. From underneath, it looks like you have tons of material there to fasten to.
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Unread 08-19-2019, 02:49 PM   #164
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If I lay the flange in place, one or both of the screw holes land very close to the edge of the opening that the pipe runs up through. It's hard to tell at this angle and with not much there for scale (and I'm not firing on all cyclinders today so I can't explain things to people very well). I'll put down the flange when I can get in there and double-check the spacing. I didn't want to drive a big screw into the subfloor 1/8" away from the edge.
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Unread 08-19-2019, 03:27 PM   #165
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This for the same bathroom you been working on, Paul?

Keep in mind that the toilet being bolted to the WC flange is to compress the wax ring and provide a proper seal with the drain riser. That connection is not meant to support the toilet.

Your toilet should set firmly on your finished floor for support. If you find the floor is uneven or out of level and won't support the perimeter of the toilet properly, you need to either fix the floor or shim the toilet such that it is level and firmly supported. In days of old when most WC risers were lead, it was common to cut pieces of the excess lead to make shims when necessary for leveling and support. It has long been my practice on tiled floors, after such shimming, to set my toilets in a fat bead of the same grout used in the floor tile. You will not find that in any plumbing or tile setting standards, but I've found it to work quite well.

If you caulk under the perimeter of the toilet, be sure to leave a significant gap at the back of the toilet so you will have a visible indication should you somehow have a leak.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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