|
Sponsors |
|
|
 |
|
05-31-2009, 07:57 AM
|
#16
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 31
|
Brian,
Thanks for the heads up. I wonder if anyone else will comment on this issue of setting the height so I can eliminate the transition strips.
As well, should I tile first, or lay hardwood first?
|
|
|
05-31-2009, 08:00 AM
|
#17
|
AC Specialist -- Schluterville Graduate
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Quinta, CA and Usk, WA
Posts: 10,791
|
I would tile then you don't have to worry about thinset, grout and walking over the new hardwood. Sawdust cleans up from tile a lot easier than thinset from wood.
__________________
Brian
If that doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.
|
|
|
05-31-2009, 06:37 PM
|
#18
|
Tile Contractor -- Boston North Shore
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Metro Boston
Posts: 1,492
|
Large format tiles tend not to be flat, they are as you say cupped or curved so it is not recommended to install them in a running bond with more than 1/3 overlap between tiles, that is not to say that all large tiles are not flat,but it can be an issue.
|
|
|
05-31-2009, 06:45 PM
|
#19
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 31
|
Layout Possibilities
Sal,
Thanks for the info. I guess I will just have to see... I have seen many 12x24 in running bond though. Surely people do this all the time?
Here are some layouts to scale of the areas I intend to tile. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Anything jump out at you guys as being off?
|
|
|
05-31-2009, 06:53 PM
|
#20
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 31
|
Ditra and matching floor levels
I think for the extra money, and the ease of installation compared to screwing in concrete board, I am going to go with Ditra. This will be a new one for me.
It just seems to go in easier. It also is a heck of a lot lighter than concrete board!
Looks like I will now have 3/8 ply, 1/8 ditra, 1/8 thinset, 3/8 tile. Should be 1 inch around about...
That means that I will probably have to put 1/4" ply under the 3/4" hardwood and we should be pretty good!
|
|
|
05-31-2009, 08:20 PM
|
#21
|
Tile and remodeling contractor
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Quincy, IL
Posts: 2,794
|
15 percent waste....if you mess up a cut on one of that then you lose 2 square feet.
Also looks like you might want to bump your layout out to a piece maybe 8 inches wide at the wood transition to get rid of those slivers on the walls..
__________________
---------------------------------------------------
Jason W.
Superior Construction
Custom Interior and Exterior remodeling experts
Quincy, IL
|
|
|
06-01-2009, 06:58 AM
|
#22
|
Tile Contractor -- Boston North Shore
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Metro Boston
Posts: 1,492
|
Like custombuilt said about the slivers you might want to adjust your layout. As far as the running bond pattern goes, i am not saying not to do it, I have done it many times. You just need to know what you might run into while you are setting the tiles and that if you get some lippage between the tiles it is normal and not much can be done about it. Put a straight edge on the face of some of the tiles before you start so as to see how far out of flat the tiles might be. You are the only person that can decide what is acceptable and what is not. it is possible that you will have no issue at all, I was just trying to give you a heads up.
|
|
|
06-07-2009, 05:40 PM
|
#23
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 31
|
Trowel
I have been reading up on setting the ditra. I believe a 1/8x1/8 trowel will do for the ditra, or a 5/16 v notch it seems.
What size notch would you reccomend for 12x24 tile?
|
|
|
06-07-2009, 10:26 PM
|
#24
|
AC Specialist -- Schluterville Graduate
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Quinta, CA and Usk, WA
Posts: 10,791
|
I think a 1/4x3/8x1/4 should do.
__________________
Brian
If that doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.
|
|
|
06-08-2009, 05:46 AM
|
#25
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 31
|
In other readings it seems that for over 12x12 many people are suggesting 1/2x1/2. I know it has something to do with the trueness of the floor as well. I will have to see what the floor is like with my 6 foot level when I rip up the vinyl and 1/4 ply.
Any other thoughts on the trowel size from anyone else?
|
|
|
06-08-2009, 06:25 AM
|
#26
|
NO MORE FLOORS
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: MONTANA
Posts: 360
|
You can use a 1/4x3/8 trowel, but on a tile that size make sure you back butter every tile.
I always try to have a piece of the hardwood around so I can match my tile to the height. I try to install the wood last.
__________________
Jim
Last edited by Jim wood; 06-08-2009 at 06:28 AM.
Reason: added more info
|
|
|
06-08-2009, 08:11 AM
|
#27
|
Tile Contractor -- Boston North Shore
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Metro Boston
Posts: 1,492
|
Have both trowel sizes on hand. Try the 1/4x3/8 first and back butter the tiles, then try the 1/2x1/2 without back buttering, lift the tiles see what your coverage is then go with what you prefer. You may need to back butter in both instances.
|
|
|
07-24-2009, 12:59 PM
|
#28
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 31
|
Flattening out a big dip in my kitchen floor?
I have an OSB sub-floor that only requires an additional 3/8 layer of ply over it before installing my ditra and 12x24 tile. It has some serious dips in it. What are my options for flattening this out?
SLC? Ditra build up like shims? Planning around the major fluctuation?
Help... please...
|
|
|
07-24-2009, 05:39 PM
|
#29
|
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate
Senior Contributor
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 15,196
|
Are the dips between joists, or across an area with many of them? If you used a thicker ply, when you screw it to the first layer, it might flatten it out a little.
You want to flatten the floor before adding the Ditra. It depends on the amount of dip you have. Take a long straight-edge - the longer the better. If you can find a straight, long piece of wood, that will work. Measure the depth of the areas that need to be filled. If they are shallow, you might be able to screed some thinset in there. Let it set up, then install your Ditra.
The depth required, and the amount of area that needs to be filled will help decide the best method.
Over a wooden subfloor, slc needs to be installed with lath, and deep enough to survive. Depending on the brand and type, it might need as much as 1/2" over the highest point. Over a concrete slab, you can feather it to zero, but it doesn't work that well like that over wood - it needs some thickness to not crack. That isn't a problem over a slab.
__________________
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
|
|
|
08-02-2009, 10:10 PM
|
#30
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 31
|
I think I have about 1/4" in the middle of the dip. I should be able to use some thinset and screed it out with a long straight edge.
|
|
|
 |
|
 
 
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:18 AM.
|
|
|