Layout of Running Bond Tile

[Robert Villa]

I usually layout walls in small, 4x4 squares. But I usually just do 4" tiles.

I am doing a running bond (staggered) wall with subway tiles, and question whether any layout is even necessary, beyond level lines.

For corners, I was simply going to cut the tile where it ends up, and not try to shift the pattern left or right to make it "look right". If there is a small piece left from a cut, then I was planning to just use the scrap on the adjoining wall and continue the running bond pattern.

This seems far to easy for me, and I wonder if layout of a running bond wall tile is honestly that easy.

Thanks, guys!

[tileguytodd]

What size is the tile,and what size grout line.You should run plumb lines every 30" or so (depending on tile size) And level lines every 30 minimum I generally run a level line around every 16" aprox for a 4x8 (depending on grout line,tile mfg etc etc) For larger tiles about every 3rd row should be sufficient for level and about every 3rd row for plumb.(2 lines for plumb every 3rd row for running bond)

Hope this helps ,otherwise give dimensions and we can be more specific.

[John Bridge]

Robert,

That's pretty much it. Keep it level.

For future reference. Running bond on a floor is a whole different ball game. The alternating head joints must be kept in absolute alignment. On walls i 's not noticeable if they are not perfect.

[Robert Villa]

Wainscott about 75 linear feet, 48 " high, includes lotsa corners and a shower.

[Bud Cline]

What
size
tile
?

[Robert Villa]

3x6 subway tile. I have assumed 1/16" grout line.

I have shot laser level lines at the top of the wainscott and in the shower which match. The rental laser was only marginally more accurate than my water level, for your general information. I was going to transfer that level line to first or second grout line on the bottom of the floor and start there, which is what I do with 4x4's.

I have made story sticks for both verticle and horizontal layouts, and per Todd, was simply going to strike verticle lines at the grout line at about every 36" or so to keep the running bond honest.

I was planning to pick the most noticeable corner in the room and start there with full tiles there.

When I get to the other corners, just continue the running bond with the cutoffs. In other words, make the cuts and apply the cuts to the other corners. Then take the waste and apply them to the adjoining wall and continue the running bond as if nothing happened. It just made more visual sense to me to turn the corner and pretend that there are no cuts.

On one wall the layout looks like I might end up with almost full tiles, so I would probably the adjoining corner with full tiles, too.

Thanks, guys. I do appreciate the coaching.

[Bud Cline]

That is fun stuff to work with. Just completed three showers and a tub surround with that tile. In the kitchen we used 3X6 Mexican with 1/4" grouts.

When "folding" those corners just be sure you don't "sliver-out" at the far end. It's kinda hard to fudge with that stuff, like trying to fudge 4X4.

[Scooter]

As Bud pointed out, even though the stuff is easy to work with, you may have a wall that ends up with a 1/2" sliver, which notwithstanding the folding, would look terrible.

I would put a tape to each wall, divide by the width of the tile plus 1 grout line (in your case 6 inches and a 1/16) and come up with the approximate number of full tiles for that run. If there will be any tile less than about 2-3 inches at the end of the run, I would trim some of the starting tiles, too, like take off an inch, instead of starting with full tiles. The secondary row is always reduced by half of the amount you trimmed off the full tile row.

I have a Construction Master IV which makes this calculation in about 30 seconds.

[tileguytodd]

Hey Scooter, It aint fair,I want one a those !!!
<---whining in Minnesota