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Unread 11-19-2021, 12:47 PM   #16
claassen
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Also, is there a way to change the title on this thread to something more generic to my project?
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Unread 11-19-2021, 02:32 PM   #17
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Yes, you need only make your request known.
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Unread 11-20-2021, 06:02 PM   #18
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Best way to sand liquid backerboard

I tried to flatten out my bathroom floor with Henry 542 today. For the most part it worked well. However, there is one high spot where I didn't do a good job of working it around, so it's still high. I've read that I can use a sander, or a grinder to take that down. What's the best strategy?
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Unread 11-24-2021, 10:35 AM   #19
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CX, can you change the thread title to something more generic, like "Bruce's Master bath remodel"?
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Unread 11-24-2021, 10:45 AM   #20
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Pony wall - glass panel length

This is more of an aesthetics question. I'm hoping that some of you experienced tile setters have an opinion based on your experience.

The pony wall in the shower is roughly 50" high, and going to have a glass panel extending upward from there. The pony wall is 72" long, and the glass panel will extend pretty much the entire length. With where the shower heads are placed in the shower, it looks to me like as long as the glass panel is at least 60" long, it will contain any water splash inside the shower.

So, here's the question:
From a "looks" only standpoint, does it look better to run the panel all the way to the very end of the wall? Or is it better to set it back a couple, or more inches? Part of this question also affects how I tile the end of the wall cap. I will be installing a Schluter Deco SG channel that will be inset into the tile, and hide the channel that the glass panel will sit in.

It seems like if the glass panel will set back from the edge a couple of inches, I probably need to make it enought that I can cut a piece of tile to wrap around the end of the channel without it breaking on me during the cut process. I'll be using the same 12x24 tile as is on the walls to cut the pieces for the pony wall cap.

Thanks.
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Unread 11-25-2021, 08:12 AM   #21
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IMO, Bruce, I'd rather have the glass extend to the end of the wall. But you'll then have a challenge with hiding the end of the channel, so you may just have to end the glass short of the end of the wall.

Fixed the thread title for ya!
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Unread 12-06-2021, 03:27 PM   #22
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Cutting PVC Rondec

I've been using a non ferrous blade in my miter saw to cut the metal Quadec and Jolly profiles in the shower. We're using PVC Rondec that matches the tile (at least fairly closely), because the boss didn't want that much metal trim. I was using the same blade to cutg a piece for a triangular shower bench the other day, and it seemed to catch part of the way through the cut. The piece bucks against the blade at that point, and absolutely destroys the edge. I figured the miter saw would produce a nice, clean cut, but that's obviously not the case.

Is there a better way to cut PVC Rondec?

Should I try a different blade? I went a little cheaper and am using a 7 1/4" Diablo non ferrous blade in my miter saw. The 10" blade was significantly more expensive, and I won't have much use for it after this tile job is complete. Could the smaller blade be part of the problem?
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Unread 12-06-2021, 04:31 PM   #23
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How many teeth on that Diablo blade?
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Unread 12-06-2021, 05:22 PM   #24
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56 teeth.
This is the blade:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-7...756N/202035231
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Unread 12-06-2021, 08:06 PM   #25
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I was fixin' to suggest it should have at least 60 teeth because my 10" Freud Non-Ferous Metals blade has 80 teeth and it does well on a lot of fairly thin and fragile materials. Still requires a gentle touch on some cuts, though.

I've never cut any PVC tile profiles with it that I recall and I don't have any at hand except those on my "key chains," which I'm reluctant to use for testing.
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Unread 12-07-2021, 08:49 AM   #26
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I imagine that part of the problem may be caused by the fact that the teeth are moving at a slower speed on a 7 1/4" blade than they would if I was using a proper 10" blade. I'm sure someone a lot smarter than me could figure out how much slower, but it doesn't really matter. I think I'll bite the bullet and pick up a 10"/80 tooth non ferrous blade.

Thanks.
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Unread 12-08-2021, 03:48 PM   #27
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Siliconized Acrylic vs 100% Silicone caulk

I just realized that my tile supplier gave me Accucolor Unsanded Siliconized Acrylic Caulk for the change-of-plane joints in the shower. From what I've read in a few threads on this forum, acrylic caulk in a shower will fail after a much shorter timeframe than 100% silicone. TEC has color-matched 100% silicone. Should I ask for that instead?
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Unread 12-08-2021, 06:18 PM   #28
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Your change of plane joints in the tile surface are supposed to provide movement accommodation, Jeff, and as such, you want to seal them with a flexible sealant meeting ASTM C920, the test method for Elaxtomeric Joint Sealants.

You can certainly use the Siliconized Acrylic product if you want, but it doesn't really provide the flexibility you want in those joints.

The 100 percent silicones are a bit more difficult to use, but are expected to last longer in your wet area application.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-16-2021, 08:02 AM   #29
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I have both TEC Accucolor 620 and Power Grout 550 to be used in the shower. The Power Grout indicates that it doesn't need to be sealed, while the Accucolor recommends sealing.
What I can't find is how long to let the grout cure before sealing. Power grout says to wait 7 days before letting it get wet, while the Accucolor says 72 hours.
Is that the same time frame to wait to seal?

What do the pros here normally do?

Also, do you seal the power grout even though it says it doesn't need it?

Lastly, any sealers that are deemed better than others?

Thanks in advance!
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Unread 12-21-2021, 01:46 PM   #30
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I posted the above grout question on the Schluter Facebook group as well, and received a couple of responses telling me Power Grout was $h!t, and one response that it was a great product, but no one ever answered my question.

I've grouted the entire bathroom, so good or bad, that ship has sailed.

The tile supplier told me I needed to wait 14 days before sealing the grout and letting it get wet. This seems extreme considering both grouts say you can seal them within 72 hours, and the Power Grout says 7 days before water immersion.

Barring any other information, I think I'll wait 72 hours to seal with 511 Impregnator/Sealer, and 7 days before testing the shower.

Anyone have any comments on these wait times?
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