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Unread 11-09-2021, 07:35 PM   #61
MiniMe
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As you can see in the attached picture the holes that are within the box are used to install the outlet but the holes that are use to install the plate will still be outside of the box and require you to drill the tiles or make a small cut there
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Unread 11-09-2021, 08:24 PM   #62
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It's not at all difficult to cut notches for those screws when making the cut-out in the tile, Mini. Not sure just what your video guy is concerned about there. However, the guy who did the cut-out in the drywall is not the guy you want to cut the tile.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-10-2021, 07:47 AM   #63
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I'm pretty sure unless you have an unusual plate the screws are short enough that it may not matter. Typically drywall is supposed to be behind those screw holes anyways to support the outlet.
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Unread 11-19-2021, 07:15 AM   #64
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What options do I have to finish up/trim these edges of my tiling?

For this picture
https://i.imgur.com/S8ArJdX.png
(the forum is telling me it is too large to upload)

#1,#2 I am not sure if I want to go up to the ceiling since the ceiling is not level :-( That is something that I missed. Is it an option to go level with the tiles up to the lowest point and then to try to mud the ceiling to make it join the tiles level ? If this is not an option what options do I have ? Aluminum edging ? Bull nose tiles matching the tiles I have ? If I go to close to the ceiling that is going to accentuate the ceiling error. If I go to low I will leave too much drywall exposed to the water in the shower area

#3 on this edge do I need any trimming or it is enough to finish the tiles 1/8" close to the perpendicular wall and grout that ?

#4 this will be a grout line, I don't think anything else is recommended here

#5 outside corner -should I miter or should I use aluminum?

#6 #7 do I need a trim here ? I don't think so but I am just asking to make sure
the exposed edges of the tile near the window will get covered by the window trimming (the window is white vinyl set in a plywood frame)

#8 #9 #10 not sure what to do here
The wall is cinder block, internal wall dry like a bone. The drywall sits straight on it nothing in between (screwed with tapcons)
My initial plan was to set this flush with the drywall and avoid any finishing on the #8 and #9 edges but then I realized that I will have a problem at #10 as there will be a tile baseboard made of the same tile as the floor. I can't set the baseboard flush with the drywall either because that will force me to do that all around the room and in some places it is not possible

So what would you do here ?

Here is how much the ceiling is off
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Unread 11-20-2021, 09:48 AM   #65
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1, 2; No technical need to take the tile to the ceiling, 7' up will be fine, just prime and paint the drywall with high quality products.

3; No need for anything special there. I'd want a tighter joint there, like 1/16th, but 1/8th will look fine too. Then caulk it.

4; That grout line should be caulked.

5; Can't tell what's going on there.

6; Also can't quite tell. But suffice it to say that anywhere that will have raw tile edges should be finished with a bull nose or other edge trimming.

8, 9, 10; If I'm understanding right, you propose to affix the drywall directly to the block wall? And affix the tile directly to the block wall also? Thus ending up with the face of the tile and drywall in the same plane?
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Unread 11-20-2021, 11:19 AM   #66
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#5 is an outside corner behind that shelf
#6 is an inside corner
Yes the exposed edges near the window will be covered by the window trimming

#8,#9,#10 yes you got it
The problem is that I need to install edging at the bottom of the wall and that ruins everything because the edging will be above the drywall :-(
I was wondering if the pros have any solutions for such cases
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Unread 11-20-2021, 07:18 PM   #67
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Can I store Redgard for like 6-7 months ?

I used like half of the bucket I got from Home Depot and I have another bathroom reno coming in like 6 months (I need to give my wife a break she can't stand these renos I am doing :-)) )

How do I store it for long term (6-7 months)?
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Unread 11-20-2021, 07:58 PM   #68
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I can give you an absolute maybe on the RedGard, Mini. In years past, many years past, I have saved parts of containers of RedGard, sometimes for a long time, but I'm not sure it was ever six months. I've never used the product for any tile related project, but would sometimes use parts of a container three or four times over several months.

I put a piece of polyethylene drop cloth, the really thin stuff, in the bucket directly on top of the remaining product to help it stay isolated from the air. Can't say how much it helped.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-21-2021, 01:13 AM   #69
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Yes I think that could work thank you
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Unread 11-21-2021, 01:22 AM   #70
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Is it ok to use PVC trim board 1x2x8 as ledger board for tiles?

I was looking for the cheapest and the straightest thing available in Home Depot. So I bought this 1x2x8 PVV trim board which is perfectly straight . My walls are not longer than 8ft they, it is a corner and the studs are irregular, some are closer like 12 in some are 16...so the tile (2'x2')weight could be unevenly distributed when I put them there.
I am wondergin if this trim piece would bend ..have you guys use anything like this?

The poplar pieces I have seen are more sturdy but they are not always that straight, difficult to find one that is straight
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Unread 11-21-2021, 07:50 AM   #71
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If you’re using topical waterproofing, any penetrations may need a patch with 2” overlap all around. Even if you fastened your 1x2 near the bottom it would still be too close to the bottom row of tile to get that overlap.

So I’d either get a 1x4 and fasten it near the bottom. Or keep the 1x2, put some blue tape on the wall and hot glue the 1x2 to the tape. The hot glue method might not work for the weight of larger tiles set with bigger notched trowel.
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Unread 11-21-2021, 08:30 AM   #72
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Hmmm interesting, I did not realize that there is another issue with this, that of the holes being too close to a grout line. I was asking if my ledgers would bend
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Unread 11-21-2021, 11:42 AM   #73
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That plastic trim isn’t very stout…especially a 1x2. Yes, I think it would bend a wee bit.

And I’d heed Lou’s requirement for the minimum 2” patch.

I would grab the straightest piece of 1x4. If you don’t have access to a jointer to straighten it completely, I’d use wedges or little squares of folded paper as “shims” where they are needed between the ledger and the first course.

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Unread 11-21-2021, 12:06 PM   #74
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I ended up buying a piece of 1x8x8 pine shelf and I asked the Home Depot guy to cut it along the long side so I ended up with two straight pieces 1x4x8
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Unread 11-21-2021, 12:11 PM   #75
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Agree, the 1X2 will probably be too flexible depending on the stud spacing.

Look for some 3 to 4 inch wide MFD base board or door/window trim. it's very straight.

Regardless, you'd do well to have some tile wedges on hand. Set a couple of your tiles on the ledger, then lay a level across the top of them. Adjust the tiles using the wedges between the bottom of the tile and the ledger while the mortar is still wet.
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