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Unread 09-25-2011, 08:02 PM   #1
jmkeuning
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jmkeuning bath number 2

I had the plumber set my tub and it is about 1/8 away from one wall. This is a problem because of the shape of the tub flange which goes behind the tile.

Basically, I did what I am supposed to do, installed hardie and ended 1/4" above the tub flange, to avoid wicking. The problem on this one wall is that the tile hits the flange and gives me very little overlap. I can completely remedy the problem by adding 1/4" material to this one wall.

The product I have available is 1/4" Certainteed Underlayment. Can I use this? Right now I have (in this order): Plaster wall, Tarpaper, 1/2 Concrete Backerboard. My idea was to just put the Certainteed on top of the Backerboard, screwed into studs and glued with liquid nails. But now I think that I should take the backerboard down and put the Certainteed behind.

Advice as to the order of my materials?

Also, if I change things around, where should I put the tarpaper and where should I use glue? I am thinking: Plaster, liquid nails, Certainteed screwed to studs, tarpaper, backerboard screwed to studs. This way the Certainteed does not get wet?
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Unread 09-25-2011, 08:58 PM   #2
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James,

Do you have an ongoing thread somewhere?

Any shimming is done atop the studs, then followed by the usual wall assembly. No real need for liquid nails. Save yourself the 97 cents.
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Unread 09-25-2011, 09:15 PM   #3
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This is my first post on this project. I'm sure I'll have others as this is my first project with glass tile.

Thanks for the advice!
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Unread 09-26-2011, 07:53 AM   #4
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Also, if that wall is not perfectly plumb, sometimes it's easier to just scab some new studs alongside the existing ones so that the wall is then perfectly flat, plumb, and in plane with where you need it. You'd only need to go from the top of the tub to the ceiling with them.
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Unread 09-26-2011, 09:55 AM   #5
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Problem is that I have lath and plaster on the walls, which is not coming down.
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Unread 09-26-2011, 10:20 AM   #6
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Can you go back down to the lath and plaster and install 1/8" to 1/4" thick furring strips? Then attach the CBU to the wall over the strips.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jmkeuning
Basically, I did what I am supposed to do, installed hardie and ended 1/4" above the tub flange, to avoid wicking.
I though that the hardi was supposed to end 1/4" above the tub DECK, yet overlap the tub flange.
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Unread 09-26-2011, 10:23 AM   #7
jmkeuning
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I can do that. It is essentially what I am doing with the 1/4" certainteed
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Unread 09-26-2011, 08:25 PM   #8
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Mod - can you change my title to something like "jmkeuning bath number 2"

I got the wall fixed. That was not fun. Nor easy. But I do not want to cut corners out of the gate.

Well, I start to layout my first run of tiles and the tub is not level. New tub. New subfloor. The tub is a cast iron Kohler memoir. I think it cost more than a grand. Add another grand to set it. It's more than 1/2" off from end to end.

And it's not level?

I am telling the contractor to take it out and install it per the manufacturer specs. Which were printed in the manual, taped to the inside of the tub.

I almost landed in the stratosphere.
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Unread 09-26-2011, 08:31 PM   #9
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James,

You just lernt tile lesson #3. No tub is perfectly level, plumb or square. This is why we start with the second row of tiles set on a ledger. The first row of tiles goes in later once the upper section has cured. The bottom row of tiles is also shorter than a whole tile so the bottoms of the whole tiles can be trimmed to fit the unevenness of the tub.

Lesson #4 will happen when you get up to the ceiling to find that isn't level either. Use the trick lernt in lesson#3 for that too.

Measure a few dozen times.
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Unread 09-26-2011, 09:01 PM   #10
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Regarding the question I missed - this tub does not really have a flange. More like a hump. I brought the backer board down right above the hump, so it does not touch. Then I brought the tar paper down so it barely overlaps the hump. My thinking is that any moisture which penetrates the tiles and thinset will run down the paper and onto the inside of the flange bump hump thing.

I understand that floors are not level and that tubs are not level and square. But the manufacturer instructions clearly show that steel shims are used to level the tub. I want my shims. Seriously, $1000 to set the tub... Let's get it done correctly.
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Unread 09-27-2011, 04:55 AM   #11
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I think you got the moisture barrier/backerboard installation idea correct. Get your tub re-leveled and have at it.
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Unread 09-27-2011, 09:53 PM   #12
jmkeuning
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They "fixed" the tub.

Oh wait, no, they didn't.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sho3_...e_gdata_player
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Unread 09-28-2011, 07:32 AM   #13
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Contractor: "My guy was there, he said they used some real nice composite shims."
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Unread 09-28-2011, 08:26 AM   #14
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James,

After watching the video, I think its time to fire these guys. Apparently they don't know enough about good bathroom installation to get the steps correct and integrated with each other. I'd be starting from scratch on this one.
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Unread 09-28-2011, 08:37 AM   #15
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I don't know what to do. I need to get the tub in place so that I can get the tiling done. I want to be living in this house in three weeks.

The problem that I run into is - how do I find someone who will do it right? And right now? I mean, at this point it seems like I should just level the tub myself.
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