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Unread 01-14-2006, 11:05 PM   #1
v1rtu0s1ty
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off topic: help badly needed

Hi guys, I don't know where to ask help since it's already late. I also don't know which forum to post this situation. So please bear with me for now.

I just had my tops installed yesterday. Under mount sink was included, however, I will have to take care all of the plumbing. My old sink was 6" deep and was on top of laminate. Now, it's an undermount and 8" deep beneath granite. Evening past 9pm, I installed the disposer and now I'm in a very bad situation. My waste line pipe is about 1" higher than the centerline discharge outlet on my undersink. Also, in order for me to connect the P-trap, I have to add another vertical pipe to reach the waste line. I have read somewhere that it's bad since there will be standing water in the disposer. I really don't know what to do. Please help.
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Unread 01-14-2006, 11:15 PM   #2
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Hi Neil,
You are right, there will be standing water in the disposal if you don't correct this. Unfortunately, this problem is relatively common when installing solid-surface tops with deep undermounted sinkbowls. Fortunately, the fix isn't too difficult.

The proper thing to do is to cut into the wall and lower the "Tee" in the wall. It isn't too difficult. You need to sever the waste pipe above and below the tee. Then lower the tee using the proper fittings. Plumbers regularily use Fernco fittings when doing this.
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Unread 01-14-2006, 11:18 PM   #3
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What Tonto said.
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Unread 01-14-2006, 11:24 PM   #4
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I have a wood(wood imitation) in front of the drywall. How wide should I cut on both side and upper/lower part?
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Unread 01-14-2006, 11:34 PM   #5
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Just enough to work on that pipe. 4" to either side should be enough to work (about 8" of width). You'll also need to cut out about 12"-14" of height for the new pieces to be fit in.

Can you work from the back-side of the wall to do less damage? Just an idea....most of the times we work from the front, even if the cabinets have a back to them like you have.
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Unread 01-14-2006, 11:36 PM   #6
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The other side is the aluminum sidings.

Am I correct that I need 2 fernco fittings?
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Unread 01-14-2006, 11:38 PM   #7
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I like to cut such holes as big as I can, Neil. You gotta be able to work in there. If there's a shelf, take it out. Then I cut out most of the back. I always try to put in a new piece that covers nearly the whole back for a patch anyway, so I cut as big a hole as I can. The new piece hasta fit through whatever opening you have in the front, of course, so don't cut out more than you can cover.

Then cut out as much sheetrock as you need to be able to work in there. You won't hafta even repair that if you don't wanna, 'cept to keep out drafts if it's an outside wall.

Time you lay a new back in there with a few screws won't nobody never know you had to do that. All gets hid behind stuff under there anyway.

My opinion; worth price charged.

See. different strokes. I usta try to do it like Goldstein, but gave up tryin' to be neat under there years ago. Patch gonna look the same over a small hole as a big one. Actually, big one usually looks neater.
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Unread 01-14-2006, 11:46 PM   #8
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Last one I patched, I matched the vertical seams of the new ply directly behind 2 vertical drain pipes. (2 S-trap drains through the cabinet floor....don't ask, I didn't do it) It was outstanding, I must say. Nobody could see the patch....and unfortunately nobody prolly cared. Was painstakingly a pita.

Prolly high time to take that advice from Cee Ex.
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Unread 01-14-2006, 11:52 PM   #9
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Thanks for the tips guys. So my question earlier, am I correct that I would need 2 fernco fittings?
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Unread 01-14-2006, 11:53 PM   #10
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Yep.
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Unread 01-15-2006, 12:30 AM   #11
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I have started the vertical cutting. It's a pain in the butt. I'm still not done yet with the vertical

Is there a wood saw blade for a grinder tool?
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Unread 01-15-2006, 12:35 AM   #12
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What saw are you using? Normally some drilled holes at the corners and a sawzall make short work of it.
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Unread 01-15-2006, 12:39 AM   #13
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I tried circular saw but it's a pain.

Going back to fernco, are these really secure? How long do they last?
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Unread 01-15-2006, 12:45 AM   #14
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Yes, the Fercos are secure. They have a stainless steel band around the inner rubber. You won't ever have to worry about them.

I can't even imaging trying to get a big honking circular saw under the cabinet. That's were a recipricating saw comes in real handy. But since you don't have one of those, what about a hand-held keyhole saw...do you have one of those? It would get dull sawing through the drywall but they are cheap to replace and might help you get this done.
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Unread 01-15-2006, 12:49 AM   #15
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I have Stanley jab saw. I tried it but it's taking me a long time too. I looked at HomeDepot online about sawzall, they're expensive. I will look at hand-held keyhole saw tomorrow.

Thanks for the help again.

Btw, to be fair with the granite installers, they did a good job, I guess(my first time to have a top like this ).

EDIT: I searched keyhole saw, http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...aw&sa=N&tab=wi
this looks similar to what I have now

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