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Unread 01-24-2022, 09:13 PM   #46
jeffnc
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I prefer to set the wall tiles over the niche bottom, because that way there's no grout joint that water will just be sitting on. Also gunk tends to collect there a little because the grout isn't perfectly flush with the tile usually. If your niche is waterproofed well then it shouldn't matter from that point of view. I usually try to avoid grout joints sitting out in the horizontal plane when possible. Even on the top of the curb I'd rather use a slab than tiles so I don't have a bunch of grout joints there. Obviously on the shower floor it's unavoidable.
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Unread 01-25-2022, 09:08 AM   #47
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Thanks Jeff! Do you then caulk the perimeter joint where the niche back tile meets the niche bottom/sides or just have a grout line in the vertical plane all around?

What about the joint where the niche bottom/sides meet the main wall tile (ie outside the niche). I was planning on setting the niche bottom/walls just a little proud of the main tile wall, maybe 3/8th or so, and then caulking that joint all around. Is it normally caulked or grouted? It seems like a weak spot for water the get in.
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Unread 01-25-2022, 09:27 AM   #48
jeffnc
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I usually use Kerdi niches nowadays, although I used to custom make my own. The problem with custom making your own, aside from the time, is that you get a lot of buildup around all the corners and seams when waterproofing it with Kerdi band and Kerdi corners. This gets in the way of good tile installation. I finally realized I can make a Kerdi niche any height I want by simply padding the top with pieces of Kerdi board until it's the correct height. I mention all this because of the material Kerdi is made of. There is a loose recommendation to caulk instead of grout at all changes of plane, but it's not necessary in a Kerdi niche, which comes waterproof and with perfectly flat, square corners. Bottom line - I grout it all. And the whole point of building a Kerdi shower (or any good waterproof shower) of course is that you don't worry if a little water gets in.

There are myriad options for transition between niche tile and wall tile. For the shelf itself, I usually build mine with a slab bottom nowadays, such as the marble one shown. In this one, the rest of the wall transition is Kerdi Rondec. I leave the shelf sticking out a half inch or so. I think it's a nice effect.
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Unread 01-25-2022, 08:34 PM   #49
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That looks great! I opted to build my own because of the width I needed. I’m planning on putting 1/2” white corian on all the sides, top, and bottom. I’m using Wedi but even with just the Wedi sealer, it does build up in the inner corners, as you say. I may need to slightly grind down the inner edges of the corian slabs to accommodate the fit a bit better.
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Unread 01-25-2022, 09:59 PM   #50
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Why do you need a custom width?
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Unread 01-26-2022, 09:22 AM   #51
tillytiles
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Wanted something quite wide - running across most of the back wall. And fall on the grout lines on each side.
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Unread 01-26-2022, 09:39 AM   #52
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So basically in your situation you simply rotate everything 90 degrees sideways. Your "subway" tile is rotated 90 degrees (vertical instead of horizontal) so you want to match the vertical grout lines, not the horizontal grout lines.

If that is your niche in the picture, then this is just for others reading.

Just get a Kerdi niche and turn it sideways. Get the 28" x 12" niche, which is the inside width - the outside width is 32". That fits perfectly sideways with 16" OC studs.

If the inside width doesn't line up perfectly with your grout lines, again just pad with a piece of Kerdi Board or cement board. If you need to fine tune, you can add an extra 1/8" to 1/4" of thinset on the tiles on either side.

https://sierraflooring.com/wp-conten...3/niches-3.jpg
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Unread 01-26-2022, 01:36 PM   #53
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Maybe for next bathroom to make my life easier. The one in the picture is almost 40 inches in width.

I was also being too anal when planning and wanted the horizontal lines to fall on the grout lines too......but now looking at how the overall layout turned out, only 4 of the 13 tiles spanning the width end up falling on the horizontal lines....so it wouldn't have made a big difference in that respect as long as there weren't slivers.
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Unread 01-26-2022, 05:45 PM   #54
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Do you ever carry over porcelain cornice/crown molding out of a tiled shower wall and just keep going around the whole bathroom ceiling?

I really don’t like any of the options of trying to adapt regular crown molding to transition from drywall to tile….they end up looking a bit tacky.

The other option is the finish the top of the tiled shower walls with a cornice trim piece but stop where the tile meets drywall. Not sure i can find a suitable cornice end piece to stop it neatly.

How do y’all address this? Or just leave the crown mounding out all together?
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Unread 01-26-2022, 06:30 PM   #55
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Benjaminn, if you'll type crown into the Advanced Search feature, you'll find lots of discussions about crown moulding in showers.

If I had to do that, I'd probably use a wood built-up crown molding with the bottom layer being something the thickness of the tile installation and just end the top of the tile installation into the bottom of that crown.

If that's one of the adaption options you don't like, I suppose you'll need to try something else.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-26-2022, 10:48 PM   #56
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Thank you Jeff and CX!
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Unread 01-26-2022, 10:59 PM   #57
jeffnc
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If it's 40" then maybe it has to be custom. I agree with your pattern it's not worth any time trying to make a horizontal grout line line up, except to avoid a sliver.
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Unread 01-26-2022, 11:27 PM   #58
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FWIW, my ceiling around my shower was not level, and I ended up putting a crown molding made from a 2" wide section of tile in at a 45-degree angle up around the ceiling. It's been there for 20-years, and still intact. The walls were done in 12" granite tiles. I used a hot-melt urethane adhesive to bond it to the tile on the wall and the ceiling. Tite-bond used to make it but they sold it to an other company. It is slightly flexible after it cures to help handle any thermal expansion changes. Making the 45-degree back bevel was the tricky part, but I made myself a jig for the tile-saw and they came out fine.
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Unread 01-27-2022, 12:53 AM   #59
tillytiles
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Do you have a picture, Jim? Doing those compound miter-bevel angles would be a pita…but there’s only two inside ones and two returns.
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Unread 01-27-2022, 01:05 AM   #60
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Moving away from the tub, I’m half-wall subway tiling (horizontal this time) around the entire bathroom perimeter…which with all the nooks an crannies will traverse 3 outside corners and 6 inside corners. Two of those outside corners being only 5 inches apart on a divider wall end.

How do you deal with the layout/sliver avoidance on corners with this many turns? Especially if you’re trying to fold each corner properly. I’m using 3x12 tile.

Do you just brute force the layout until it works more or less or maybe you avoid doing the folds to the exact tile full length just to avoid slivers or maybe layout each wall individually somehow?

Ps - you guys have been a tremendous help! Thank you all!
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