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Unread 01-16-2022, 11:33 AM   #31
tillytiles
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Any opinions on these options? (Largely to deal with the pia or troweling thinset into all of those narrow nooks and crannies, see pic above)

1. Continue tiling up row by row, notch troweling the narrow 3” spaces best I can and back-buttering the tiles.

2. Continue tiling up row by row, back-buttering the wall and notch troweling each tile.

3. Tile in columns. Start with laying middle column all the way up, then build out to the sides.

4. Or alternatively tile up full column in one corner and work your way in columns to the other side of the wall.

Thank you!
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Unread 01-16-2022, 12:55 PM   #32
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There are minor pros and cons to each, but in a mixed pattern like that I usually just back trowel each tile. Back troweling effectively accomplishes back buttering (and there is no such thing as "back buttering" a wall really).
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Unread 01-16-2022, 01:27 PM   #33
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Thanks Jeff! By back-buttering wall I just mean putting on thin smooth coat to fill in the Wedi texture….so same idea as backbuttering tile.
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Unread 01-16-2022, 04:26 PM   #34
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Hi Benjamin

You should be doing full row verticals instead of going across with that pattern. I would start in the middle and do 2-4 rows all the way up & down. Keep them plumb and straight and then work your way to the sides.

The problem with going across is that you are going to pinch the tiles in spots as you add to it.

The other way of doing it would be to make a 'mountain' in the middle with a center peak and stair-step your way up & down. But I think the first way that I mentioned would be easiest for starting/stopping.

Mods: In post 14 he has an alternate title that he pitched. It would be better than the very problem-specific title that he currently has.
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Unread 01-16-2022, 04:41 PM   #35
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Thank you James! That was my thought too - there’s a reason regular subway tile is laid out horizontally. Doing columns in my case is basically the same, just laid on its side 90 degrees.

Another thing that complicates this is that I’ll be cutting out a niche, but I want to get the grout lines lined up for the niche edges and so I can’t just tile directly up without skipping the future niche cut out. Maybe I’ll have to cut it out earlier than I thought I would.
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Unread 01-16-2022, 04:48 PM   #36
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What size do you diamond hole cut your openings for the shower arm and tub spouts?

I’m trying to stay as small as possible. I’ll be installing grohe fixtures which I believe use a 1/2 male threaded brass nipples from the drip elbows out. Ideally I would have liked to have those in before the tile so I could seal them to the Wedi panel cutouts. But I don’t know exactly how much length I’ll need sticking out because I don’t have the fixtures yet.
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Unread 01-16-2022, 04:56 PM   #37
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Since you have the tile started, you could just draw lines for where you want your niche. Then reverse-engineer it so that the size of it ends up working out for your tile layout.

I like to give myself some wiggle room on those so I figure the tile will stick past the opening about 1/8 inch.

For the hole size, I use a 1 3/8 inch bit for the filler outlets. That way the hole is big enough to slide over a capped end if that's what the plumber put on. Most every manufacturer's trim will cover that size.
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Unread 01-16-2022, 06:24 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tillytiles
By back-buttering wall I just mean putting on thin smooth coat to fill in the Wedi texture….so same idea as backbuttering tile.
That's usually referred to as "keying in". Same thing you'd do when putting thinset over anything really, plywood, drywall, etc.
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Unread 01-16-2022, 06:26 PM   #39
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For retrofitting to a niche, it's good to leave a little extra room. You can always add another 1/8" thinset, but you can't push tile in an extra 1/8" if it's against the surface already.
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Unread 01-17-2022, 08:14 AM   #40
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Benjamin,

I, too, am using Grohe products in my current bathroom remodel. Their shower head arms are like any other but, if yours is like mine, their bathtub filler nipple is, as you mention, a specifically designed brass fitting with female threads on one end and male with an O ring at the end. The fitting will thread onto a standard 1/2" nipple.

Trouble is, IIRC, Grohe calls for an installed depth to the face of the tile as NN, +/- 1/16th of an inch. That's not a lot of wiggle room. Given that 1/2" X 1/2" male nipples come only in 1/2" increments one needs to ensure the drop ear is set at the correct depth.

Only mentioning this since you said you don't yet have the Grohe fitting. Disregard if you've already read the installation instructions.
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Unread 01-17-2022, 08:25 AM   #41
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Hi Dan,

Thanks for that! I do not have the fixtures yet. The drop ears are set in stone. I'm assuming I'll have to fabricate my own copper nipple with a custom length of 1/2 copper pipe and two end fittings if the tolerances have to be that exact.

I've been looking at the different models on their website and looking at the instructions and some do show that you get a full threaded nipple that you hacksaw to your specific length....although that is only for some of their products. Others don't show that.

I guess I'll have to wait until I get the fixtures and see what's what.
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Unread 01-17-2022, 08:26 AM   #42
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Yes, nipples that need to be installed to within 1/16", the bane of my showerbuilding existence.
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Unread 01-17-2022, 08:43 AM   #43
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Forgot to mention, Benjaminn, Grohe's brass nipple looks to be about 1 1/16" at its fattest.
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Unread 01-17-2022, 09:19 AM   #44
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Thanks Dan! I guess 1-1/4 tile hole should cover that.
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Unread 01-24-2022, 06:39 PM   #45
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When tiling out a niche, is there a preference of whether to overlap the tile over the niche walls or to overlap the walls over the tile?
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