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Unread 02-24-2008, 10:28 PM   #1
FJK
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Tiling Tub & Shower Walls

There are many types of tile backerboards for walls. I'm leanign toward 1/2" HardiBacker. Howerver, in my area, there is also Durock, DensShield, Wonderboard. Which is prefered & why.

Also, aside from 4 X 4 thin ceramic tiles for the walls, what would be some other alternatives in both size & material that would look good for a small 5 foot by 3 foot, 3 wall alcove tub & shower. We have looked at some 8 X 12 travertine tile, but I see other posts saying travertine is not good for shower walls. Other suggestions please. Oh yes, I would like to incorporate some type of decrotive band within the tile pattern.

Thanks, FJK
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Unread 02-24-2008, 10:34 PM   #2
Davy
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Hi FJK, welcome. The CBU used is just person preference. Some will recommend Backerboard, others Durock, someone else will like Wonderboard. You'll get different opinions on that but all of them will work. Just put a moisture barrier behind it first, whichever you use.

We install alot of stone in showers although there is more work keeping it maintained. I would use a porcelain tile that looks like stone.

Check out some local showrooms, you'll get plenty of ideas.
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Unread 03-06-2008, 12:28 PM   #3
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Recessed Shelf in shower

I picked up one of those flanged plastic boxes at a tile shop, to create a recessed shelf in the tub/shower. This gets installed between the studs. The tile shop guy says you just apply your thinset & tiles right on the plastic surface. I would like a confirmation if this is OK. Thanks, FJK
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Unread 03-06-2008, 01:01 PM   #4
Scottish Tile and Stone
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How are you going to waterproof the rest of the shower?
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Unread 03-06-2008, 03:46 PM   #5
FJK
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Plastic 6mil or roofing paper, then 1/2" cement board
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Unread 03-06-2008, 04:36 PM   #6
jim mclaughlin
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That is your vapor barrior. Waterproofing would be a surface applied liquid such as red guard or laticrete hydroban or a surface applied membrane like kerdi. When I say surface I mean on top of your cement board

Could you be more descriptive when you say plastic box, the pre made niches I am familiar with are cement covered foam pieces that are waterproof. Do you have a manufacturer for it?
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Unread 03-06-2008, 06:47 PM   #7
FJK
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No manufacturer, just a plastic box with flanges; got it from the Tile Shop.
Also, what is red guard? Why is that needed? Old tile wall was ceramic with adhesive over drywall. Lasted 30 yrears.
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Unread 03-17-2008, 10:56 PM   #8
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Cement Board to Drywall Seam

I'm installing new 1/2" hardi cement board & new 1/2" drywall. On the common stud where the seam occurrs (cement board meeting drywall), does the seam get taped & finished with drywall mud or thinset? The final tile will be a 3" x 12" bull nose (not a "mud cap"), so about 1" of the tile will overlay the seam on to the drywall. Also, I notice the drwall surface is slightly above the cement board surface by up to 1/16". If this is an issue, how is it corrected? I'd rather not wait until I'm tiling to see if this is a problem. BTW, the 3X12 bullnose trim & the 6X6 primary tile is pretty thick, about 7/16" thick.
THanks, FJK
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Unread 03-17-2008, 11:18 PM   #9
Tool Guy - Kg
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Tape the seam with alkaline-resistant mesh tape and mud it with thinset. Be careful to not allow the thinset to get outside the tile's "footprint" where you plan on painting. Blue painter's tape helps out a lot here.

About the thinner Hardibacker...not to worry about the tile being "ramped" at that edge. The setting material will more than make up for that difference and the tile can be installed in a nice, flat plane.
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Unread 03-25-2008, 05:39 PM   #10
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Back to the shim deal. After driving myelf crazy over the mismatch, I cut shims out of 1/8" hardboard. After I'm done, I discover at the local Menards drywall shims in the sheetrock asile. A giant package for 6 bucks. Made out of cardboard(?), the width of a stud, maybe 2' long. Maybe this will help someone down the road.
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Unread 04-28-2008, 09:51 PM   #11
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How do I layout this?

I'm wall tiling a 3 wall tub/shower. I'm using 6" square tiles, actual size 5-3/4 X 5-3/4 with 1/8" grout spacing. The wall is 59 3/8" wide. Ideally 10 tiles across will work perfectly. Now, the issue. I have a 13-3/4" square recess shelf box installed in the wall, but the center line of the box is offset 1-1/2" from the center of the wall. My significant other says I should use the center of the box as the centerline for the tile, which would result in cut tiles on the end columns of tiles, 1 column 1.8" wide, the other column the tiles would be 4.7" wide. I think this would look bad. As it is, as the rows come up toward the bottom of the box, I have 1" open from the bottom of the box from the last full tile. Here I'm planning on using a strip of 1" square tiles.

What are the layout alternatives for this box? Do I tile the box perimter first & layout from there? Or, tile the wall first & do whatever to fit the box tile to the field tile of the wall. I have no artistic vision to "see" what would look best. How do should this be handled? Also, as a side note, is there any computor program for laying out tile & grout spacing to scale? I'm getting a headache from trying to figure this out. Help!

Thanks, FJK

Last edited by FJK; 04-28-2008 at 09:53 PM. Reason: spelling
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Unread 04-29-2008, 04:26 AM   #12
bbcamp
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There are 2 schools of thought for this problem: 1) the tile setter's artistic interpretation governs the process and layout, and 2) doing what the boss says.

Really, it's a matter of compromises to achieve a pleasing and workmanlike end product. I think that your layout makes sense, but the niche interrupts the pattern in the middle of the field. Framing the niche with bullnose tiles (or some other shape) may make this less noticable. I'm not sure of your plan to use 1" squares under the niche, unless you frame the whole thing with them. Just under the bottom will look like you tried to avoid cuts.
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Unread 04-29-2008, 04:26 AM   #13
scuttlebuttrp
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I would ignore the box as far as the layout is concerned. Your outside vertical rows of tile will be more noticeable than the cuts inside the niche.
There's different ways to do the niche.
You can have your groutlines continue through like it sounds like you were planning.
You can put the bullnose trim on the outside of the niche with the rest of your wall tile (this would eliminate the 1" problem but cause more cuts) then split the back into 4 equal size pieces creating a window look.
Same as above but put the four pieces on a diagonal
Same as above but put the horizontal line higher for a religous effect (cross).
Put a different tile in the back like a fancy glass tile or some funky looking listello.
Don't get tied into anything because " that's the way it's done". It's your tub/shower. Think a little bit and you'll be able to get something you like. Normally when it comes to tile, some designer dreams up something that they think would look really nice. It's our job to figure out how to make it work. So think of something you like then we'll try to make it woirk.
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Unread 05-10-2008, 07:49 AM   #14
FJK
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Wall Tile; Will I be OK???

I'm doing wall tile on a tub surround with 6X6 tiles, thinset, cement board.
2 questions
The tile is about 1/2" thick & is rated as floor tile. Is it too thick (meaning too heavy) for wall tile? Any special considerations doing this?

2nd question: We want to intermingle about 10 decrotive 6X6 tiles in the field, but these tiles are thinner, maybr about 3/8" thick. The plan is to back butter with extra thin set to get them flush with the ticker tiles. Is this OK & will it work?

The little lady wants to do this; I'm nervous about it. Please advise.

Thanks, FJK
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Unread 05-10-2008, 08:10 AM   #15
Brian in San Diego
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FJK,

The first thing I would like to be sure of is that you properly waterproof the surround for the tub. If it's a tub only with no shower then you should be O.K. with just your cement board application. If it's a shower then you need to do more waterproofing...either by properly installing poly behind the cement board or applying a surface membrane like kerdi or a paintable one like Laticrete Hydroban or Custom RedGard.

Now for the tiling question. The weight of the tiles will make no nevermind (within reason). You can add thinner decorative pieces by the method you describe. Some have made jigs to put down a layer of thinset to the proper thickness and then applied the thinner tile to that thinset.

Brian
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