Stuart bath room upgrade

[Tool Guy - Kg]

Shawn, your last link at the bottom of your post isn’t working like you intended.

[Stuart]

Hi,

As recommended, I removed the section of kerdiboard/membrane, at the tub flange, where I had a bump due to too much mortar under the kerdi membrane.

Looking for advice how to handle the mortar build up (see picture) along the tub flange. Some chips away fine, but in many spots it is bonded well to the flange. Before I proceed with any agressive method, looking for some advice.

Thank you

[ss3964spd]

If the build up is on the flange, and not on the deck, just use whatever tool necessary to remove it. The flange won't be seen.

[Stuart]

Hi,

A bit off topic of tiling, but looking from others to see if this seems right. I ordered my double sink vanity. I was installing the sink top and quickly came to the conclusion it would not fit because of two length wise strips of wood on the front and back inside.

The open distance between the two pieces of wood (length wise, see picture) is about 15 1/2 inches. The distance (on the bottom of the marble top) between the faucet opening and the edge of the sink is about 18 1/2 inches. As you can see by the picture, it does not fit.

I was told by my supplier, a notch needs to be put in the length wise strips so the front of the sink and the faucets on the back will fit. They said these strips are for transportation only (although they are glued in from the builder). Does notching seem ok. I guess there is no other option.

Thank you,

R/stuart

[cx]

Not an uncommon modification to be required to make, Stuart, and it really won't affect the use of the cabinet once set in place.

You'll grow accustomed to not believing your plumber about anything but plumbing, and even that might require some grains of salt.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Stuart]

Thank you...in this case I'm the plumber...and your right..I don't always believe everthing i say myself .

[cx]

Sorry, my old brain substituted plumber for supplier in your post. But my recommendation still stands.

[smifwal]

https://www.protilertools.co.uk/prod...routing-sponge

[Stuart]

Hi,

Can I ask another question in regards to my vanity install.

I butted the base left and back sides against the walls because that is how my previous unit was installed. When I do that, the overhang of the sink top extends farther than it should (see picture), not allowing for sealant to be placed on all contact surfaces between the two pieces because of the way the bottom is molded. Only the outer 1" or so is solid flat. For the top and base to fit with the bottom flat portion of the sink completly on the vanity base, the vanity would be away from the back and side wall about 1 inch (see other picture). The unit did come with a length of scribe molding for corner gaps.

My solution is going to place the cabinet so the scribe molding will fill the biggest gap and place the sink top and caulk it with what ever contact areas exists.

Does that seem right? Are there other methods to address this? Would only a few contact points for caulk be sufficient to "lock it down". The instruction sheet that came with the marble top says apply sealing compound to each corner, not the entire perimeter.

Thank you

[cx]

It doesn't take much to keep one of those tops in place, Stuart. Unless you're expecting some serious abuse from the vanity users, I think just bonding it at the corners will probably be more than adequate, 'specially if you put a few dabs of your adhesive between the backsplash and wall.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Stuart]

Hi,

Another question on the vanity install. The marble sink top does not appear to be flat, so when I lay the top on the vanity there is a gap on one side. Is it defective or is it normall to have to put a small wood shim in a spot or two to keep it from rocking.

Thank you

[ss3964spd]

It wouldn't surprise me, Stewart, if the vanity top isn't dead flat, nor if the vanity cabinet itself isn't off a bit.

Go right ahead and shim it.

[Demonic]

The upper braces will very commonly get notched, and isn't an issue. They're there to help keep the frame square. You shouldn't need much silicone. It's there more just to keep the top from shifting. And yes it's normal to put some shims in to distribute weight of the top, then cut them with a utility blade so they're flush with the cabinet under the ledge. I'm sorry if I missed it, but did you also screw the cabinet to the studs? There's usually a strip across the back that acts as a screw face to screw the cabinet into a stud or two to secure it. Or if it's a solid plywood back they might not have a separate screw strip, but a full plywood back isn't common on prefab cabinets.

[Stuart]

Hi,

Thank you to everyone for your help...finally got it all in. It was more challeging than I expected.

Had to put a shim under the sink top in the back right. Getting the top positioned with the vanity base was more challenging in respect to having the 1 in solid "outer" lip under the top (the rest of the bottom was hollow) positioned so it matched the vanity top (so the sealant would touch both the sink bottom and vanity top). And also not having the cabinet so far away from the left and back walls that would leave a gap larger the the width of the scribe molding. I did screw the cabinet to the studs in the back and one in the side. Because of how every thing had to be positioned, the cabinet was about a 1/2 in away from the back and side walls. I used a piece of 1/2 osb as a shim. Everything seems solid.

Thank you again for your help....

[ss3964spd]

Glad you got it sorted, Stewart.