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Old 02-08-2018, 12:11 PM   #16
Obo2
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for plywood you want exterior grade glue.

it should be labeled bcx or acx not sheathing and not pressure treated.

HD and lowes will do some basic cutting for you to be able to get the supplies in your vehicle or it's like $20 for the hd truck if they have them.
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Old 02-08-2018, 01:10 PM   #17
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Thanks Nick. The size issue isn't just for transportation reasons...I'm a 5 foot nothing gal and moving a whole sheet of plywood myself is a little outside my range of capabilities
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Old 02-08-2018, 01:33 PM   #18
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do you even lift bro?

I'm 6'2 and a full sheet of plywood is one of the most awkward things i have ever picked up.

I would try to keep the pieces as large as needed to minimize seems though.

screws should be every 4" on the edge and every 6" in the field. I like to predrill with countersink bit only through the ply to keep everything nice and flat.
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Old 02-08-2018, 04:26 PM   #19
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I do lift but I don't think you're talking about my puny 10 lb curls

You should have seen me trying to wrangle two sheets around my kitchen when I was making some laminate countertops last year...

Back to the "real" topic...what kind of screw pattern do you recommend for the part I will be replacing? 4 inches? longer? shorter? These will be screwed into the joist.

So for the ply, I'll be screwing 3/4" ply into 1" planks...1 1/2" screws?

Think I'm gonna start working on my wall layouts tonight...heaven help me
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Old 02-08-2018, 05:37 PM   #20
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I believe 6 " spacing is plenty for the subflooring. You'll also want to glue to the joists.

You'll want your screws to fully penetrate the subfloor so go with 1 3/4ths or 2" and use decking screws not drywall screws or something.
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Old 02-08-2018, 06:45 PM   #21
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At the 1 3/4" or 2" length I'm gonna have a bunch of screw tips sticking through the floor eh? Though I'm sure it will look interesting looking up from the basement is that ok?
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Old 02-08-2018, 06:52 PM   #22
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Oh yeah, onto the walls...I'm gonna be skim coating them this weekend and hopefully getting the tile on them the next. I wanna buy my supplies this week while Menards has its "rebate" week. I'm gonna be doing 3x6 white subway. What should I use to stick em to the walls? I'm also doing a row of glass mosaic near the top. What kind of grout should I use?
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Old 02-17-2018, 07:02 PM   #23
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I'm baaaack!

Just about done with the wall prep...FINALLY. Took too long to get the hole cut for the medicine cabinet...*sigh*

Now that I'm making some forward progress...Do I tile before I hang the medicine cabinet or after? Will also be installing a small cabinet above the terlet...

Also, bought modified thin set for the wall tile...should I have bought unmodified? There was really nothing at the store that said "unmodified" but have since learned it's also called "dry set" which they do have...

Thanks!
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Old 02-17-2018, 08:11 PM   #24
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Hi Jenny, it may not matter which is installed first. I like the look of the medicine cabinet over lapping the tile but that's up to you.

I'd use white Modified thinset.
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Old 02-17-2018, 08:17 PM   #25
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Thanks Davy!

The tile is going to go up about 15 inches from the bottom of the cabinets. The only thing I'm worried about is it being flush with the wall if I lay it on top of the tile. But I could caulk that maybe?
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Old 02-18-2018, 11:36 AM   #26
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If I understand you correctly, the tiles aren't going all the way around the medicine cabinet, only up to it at the bottom. If that's the case, I would set the medicine cabinet first and tile to it if that's possible. Just depends on the design of the medicine cabinet.
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Old 02-22-2018, 07:38 PM   #27
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Any concern about possible asbestos in your bathroom?
I ask because I went through a nightmare last year with a contractor who didn't have a license removing asbestos tile in my kitchen.
So when I hired a new contractor to redo my bathroom, I made sure they were licensed.
I had my 1950s plastic tiles on wall and floors but other people said they didn't have any asbestos.
Turns out everything tested positive, even the wallpaper and glue beneath the newer (lat 1950s) wall tile.
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:33 AM   #28
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Hi all!! I've managed to get the walls prepped and ready to go and the got the floor in (will post some pics from home, can't connect the phone at work). I'm gonna get started on the walls today. I'm using 3x6 subway with TEC Sturdiflex polymer modified thinset. Some of what I read says I need to use a ledger or batten at the bottom and some says not to. WHAT DO I NEED TO DO??!?!?! Ahhh!!! I'm hoping to start about 2 PM so quick answers would be greatly appreciated

Jenny
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:28 AM   #29
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Hi Jenny. You can start the tile layout at the floor or at the top of the tub. I assume you are tiling the walls around the tub and continue on the bath walls. I usually start at the top of the tub with the layout and most likely would have cut tiles at the floor. But you can start at the floor if you would like and likely have cuts at the top of the tub.

When starting at the top of the tub, place a level on the tub to find the lowest corner. Start the layout there and cut in against the rest of the tub. You can place a ledger board for the second or third row. Make sure it's straight.
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:31 AM   #30
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Hi Davey!

This is for the bathroom wall (the room part) not the shower wall. I haven't even got there yet

Everything I've read says to NOT start at the floor, but at least a tile space up to adjust for unlevel-ness...hence the question about to batten or not batten.
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